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Hello, I have a 1995 corvette
my issue is I have crank no start. Things I’ve done so far replaced the Optispark, icm, and coil.
my issues started with it dying while driving, started approximately 1 minute later it then died 10 ish minutes later, hasn’t started since. At the time I had no spark. Replaced Opti, no start, replace icm, coil same result but now have spark. I have fuel pressure, (checked) injectors are all working the best that I can tell. I have confirmed multiple times the wires from Opti to plug are correct. The only security light (which is blinking) I currently have is while the keys are out and the doors open other wise it’s fine. There is a clear fuel smell in the exhaust after cranking and a “bubble” not sure how else to describe it. I am definitely a novice at this stuff but any help would be appreciated
First, check codes. Second, connect fuel pressure meter and check with key on then how long it holds pressure. See what pressure does while cranking. Third, pull a spark plug and hold by a ground to see if you have a spark. There are two of the main things you need to have ignition. Fourth, stop throwing parts at it.
First, check codes. Second, connect fuel pressure meter and check with key on then how long it holds pressure. See what pressure does while cranking. Third, pull a spark plug and hold by a ground to see if you have a spark. There are two of the main things you need to have ignition. Fourth, stop throwing parts at it.
Only code I have is H72, fuel pressure is 42 immediately with key on and fluctuates to 39-42 while cranking. I have spark on at least 4 cylinders with a spark plug tester.
Check your oil… I bet it is full of fuel from all of the cranking. If it smells of gas change the oil. The gas washes down the cylinder walls and you lose compression.
After that it would be verifying the injector pulses with a noid light and check the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to see if there is gas in the vacuum line (would mean bad FPR). You could also have a stuck injector, I would Ohm them…
Check your oil… I bet it is full of fuel from all of the cranking. If it smells of gas change the oil. The gas washes down the cylinder walls and you lose compression.
After that it would be verifying the injector pulses with a noid light and check the fuel pressure regulator (FPR) to see if there is gas in the vacuum line (would mean bad FPR). You could also have a stuck injector, I would Ohm them…
1st, there is fuel in the oil
2nd, I don’t have a noid light and won’t be able to get one tonight, but if needed I can pick one up. They do all have the same ohm.
3rd, vacuum line does smell of gas
so I should replace oil and FPR. Get a noid light and test it. Would that be what’s causeing my no start?
im also confused on how both things could go bad simultaneously becuase I had not spark before and now do
Assuming what you are stating is accurate…lots of cranking without starting can dump lots of fuel into the cylinders and thus the oil. That could cause loss of compression…. Also your FPR could have been suspect the whole time/prior to your spark issue and again lots of cranking with a bad fpr could have helped flood the engine….
you should/could also measure your fuel pressure with key on, the turn key off and see if it holds…
[QUOTE=pedricd;1606634016]Assuming what you are stating is accurate…lots of cranking without starting can dump lots of fuel into the cylinders and thus the oil. That could cause loss of compression…. Also your FPR could have been suspect the whole time/prior to your spark issue and again lots of cranking with a bad fpr could have helped flood the engine….
you should/could also measure your fuel pressure with key on, the turn key off and see if it holds…[/QUOTE
turned key on, fuel pressure went to 41, turned key off and it lost a few psi over 20ish seconds then held
thank you so much for the help, I hope this is what solves my issue, I just wanna go for a drive….
It’s hard to tell exactly what is going on without being there, but hopefully that does it (FPR and oil change). If you truly have low compression that can be verified by pulling some plugs and hooking up a gauge.. It also might be a good idea to put a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe a capful) and turn the engine over without starting it just to help get the cylinder walls recoated. If you are checking the compression while doing this you should see compression increase as it gets coated…
I know you said you double checked firing order but I’d check it again. Also, you didn’t force the opti on in any way correct? Ie the opti became flush with the engine without using bolts to draw it against the timing cover?
It’s hard to tell exactly what is going on without being there, but hopefully that does it (FPR and oil change). If you truly have low compression that can be verified by pulling some plugs and hooking up a gauge.. It also might be a good idea to put a small amount of oil in each cylinder (maybe a capful) and turn the engine over without starting it just to help get the cylinder walls recoated. If you are checking the compression while doing this you should see compression increase as it gets coated…
I know you said you double checked firing order but I’d check it again. Also, you didn’t force the opti on in any way correct? Ie the opti became flush with the engine without using bolts to draw it against the timing cover?
I will have to order an FPR and I’ll find a gauge to use
i will check again but me and a buddy both checked more then once. There really wasn’t any pushing, but I was not the one who put it in place. A friend of mine held pressure on it while I rotated it until it slid into place