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Any tips on getting it set up under the car? Do you lift on the indicated areas or somewhere else on the C4?
the C6 was more accomdating because of the design of the undercarriage, the C4 was fine, just place the rubber blocks on the pinch welds. I'll look and see if i have some good close-up photos of a car lifted. I didnt have any good photos but I had 2 videos where I use it. in a nut shell, works just fine for the C4...fyi they are HEAVY, about 80lbs a side and i needed to stand mine up on end to save garage space (everytime I used them) so it was a workout which is why I sold them, juice wasnt worth the squeeze for me (at the end of the C6 video I show the lowering process of the car and what I had to do to store them).
I have the 7000TL. I bought it so it would work on my heavier vehicles. You just put the pads under the usual lift points front and back. With it you can leave the transmission on the trans jack and just roll it out the back. Lots of room to work under it and roll under on a creeper. Makes everything so much easier! I keep thinking why didn't I buy this a long time ago?!
Cut the nubs off 2 of the pinch weld blocks to clear the rear body parts and plumbing. Rear is tall block and nubs, front is short block with cut up blocks to match height. Bought some pinch weld blocks because i didn't know the jacks came with the dimpled/lego blocks. Cut out the left front block out to clear plumbing that runs along that pincb weld. You can clearly see the marks left by the pinch welds, the blocks squeeze down a bit requiring the mods. This is on a 1990
After having an Auto lifter (6000 lbs) 4-post since 1998. I moved and sold the house with the lift. Moved to a house with a 22 ft square garage 8 ft high ceiling. Well I needed a lift, found a sale on Father's day from Home Depot a Quick Jack 5000LT for $1411.13 total cost and Received free shipping.
Because my car has side skirts from 49th street (no longer made) I had to place 1 in thick boards under each wheel to install the Quick Jack under the car. When done working on the under side of car lowered the Quick Jack removed the Quick Jack and droved car out of garage. With the car all the way up I could still have hood and rear glass up.
1990 white/black # 2546
one of a few 4l8OE eq ZR-1's
John
I have a 7000 SLX that I bought used for a good deal. I put it under the car with the hoses pointing to the front of the car the first time I used it and it didn't fit that well as the lift points didn't line up with the pinch weld lift areas that well. The 2nd time I used it I changed it around with the hoses/control at the rear and it worked just fine.
I sometimes use it on my pickup so the extra lifting capacity is a good thing. So, if you have several different types of vehicles to use it on the SLX will work just fine.
I do have some small 1X4 wood pieces that I position under the rubber blocks to get the desired pinch weld contact without getting too close to the floor with the metal brackets and to get a level lift.
5000TLX!!!!!!!! and I don’t care that it spends most of the time collecting dust hanging on a wall.
They are kind of badass. Great advice on the rear pucks. The belly pan/support on my convertible gives no room for error. The brake/fuel lines are right there. Now in hindsight when it’s lifted it makes you want to redo all the plumbing😂
I lost my mind with merchandise so I do drop it down on race ramp pedestals for extended periods of time.
