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What is the catch with these Ignition Control Modules on amazon for $13.95 for a 93 corvette? They are $100 to $150 everywhere else. Anybody ever tried one? Are they any good? Don't know if that is whats wrong with my car but its worth a try. My car starts missing after driving on open road for about 10 or 15 minutes. Especially if I kick it down. It misses while idling too when it starts this. After it sits for a while it starts and runs good again for about 10 or 15 minutes.
I am interested in what replies you get. My 94 M6 is doing the exact same thing. I replaced wires, plugs, coil and o2 sensors so far. Problem is still there. No Service Engine light and no codes. ICM is alot easier to change than the Optispark.
I have a 93, and did not go cheap on the ICM. A year ago it cost me $116. It was one of many ignition and computer issues I had at the time. Hasn't failed me after 3000+ miles.
GM Genuine Parts D1971A Ignition Control Module without Coil
My local shop suspected the distributor but I haven't had an opportunity to have it looked at. I did change the MAP sensor since it was so easy. Car seemed to run a little bit better but that didn't cure the problem. I think me and a buddy that's pretty mechanically inclined might try the ICM. If that doesn't do it, I'll take it to the shop. I'm gonna try easy and cheap first. I don't have any check engine lights or anything either. My car has less than 17,000 miles on it so obviously the battery goes dead pretty often. I'm not sure if it everything has to reset after the battery is charged or not.
I went with the GM branded ICM, and yea it wasn’t cheap off Amazon.
I would suggest instead of buying a cheap one “just to try” that you remove your existing ICM clean it and the heat sink really well and reinstall with fresh and high quality thermal paste (arctic silver). The thermal paste dries and leaks out over time and then you start having heat related issues. If this fixes it great!!! If it takes longer to have problems but you still have issues, then replace it.
FWIW - my ICM symptoms were like an off switch…not missing or running rough… your coil could be suspect too and generating weak spark when hot…always good to check fuel pressure too but unlikely.
After that opti would be suspect…what about CTS? What does the digital readout read when it starts acting up and is the coolant reading (digital) rational?
I have decided to change the ICM on my 93. I will likely try to get a GM (or equivalent) replacement. I need to know exactly which paste I should use and where to get it? Also, I've not looked yet but does anything else need to be removed before taking off the ICM?
I’m having a similar issue with my car now. Except it only misses at idle when hot. Anything off idle and the car is super strong. I plan on replacing the ICM with a quality unit when I do the rest of the ignition related items in a tune up. I’m hoping after all that, it fixes the issue.
I went with the GM branded ICM, and yea it wasn’t cheap off Amazon.
I would suggest instead of buying a cheap one “just to try” that you remove your existing ICM clean it and the heat sink really well and reinstall with fresh and high quality thermal paste (arctic silver). The thermal paste dries and leaks out over time and then you start having heat related issues. If this fixes it great!!! If it takes longer to have problems but you still have issues, then replace it.
FWIW - my ICM symptoms were like an off switch…not missing or running rough… your coil could be suspect too and generating weak spark when hot…always good to check fuel pressure too but unlikely.
After that opti would be suspect…what about CTS? What does the digital readout read when it starts acting up and is the coolant reading (digital) rational?
Thanks for also replying the same info to my thread. Can you explain how the CTS readings being off would affect the ignition? I’m assuming it sends the readings to the ECM which ultimately controls timing throughout the RPM range? Is that somewhat correct?
Gonna change the ICM on my 93 wedensday. I had advance order a "carquest". Hope this was a good move. Anyway, does anybody know the exact socket size to remove the bolts?
For anybody that's interested. As I stated my 93 would run rough, misfire, sometimes would quit, sometimes wouldn't start back after driving a few miles. And especially when I kicked it down. Changed the MAP sensor. That did seem to make it run a little better at normal speeds. Changed the ICM today. Drove it and it ran fine until kicking it down. However, it still idled and started back correctly. Put a bottle of Lucas in it, 10 gallons of 93 octane, drove the dog crap out it for about 75 miles. High speeds when I could. It runs like brand new now.
I Know this is old and I have no clue if you will still respond but I'm having a similar issue did just replacing the icm and or the ignition coil fix it or was the Lucas oil that fixed the dying specifically? if so what kind of Lucas, like injector cleaner or something else, thanks.