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Had my '95 Auto Trans/Torque Converter rebuilt due to 3rd/4th gear slipping. (4L60E). Since the rebuild I've noticed that the A/T temp seems high. On a 75 degree day on mostly flat with some small hills the A/T temp range will be about 204 to 216 degrees. The Coolant temp will be about 197 and oil temp about 209.
Does the A/T temp seem high? If you have this trans what reading do you have. Thanks
Yes not good at 220 the fluid will burn ,needs to not go over 180 for a very long running time ,when the outside temp goes to 80-90 I think you will really have a problem . Coolant temp and oil about right for a stock set up ,I have a 3-row radiator with A/C on in traffic my temp will go to 205 but cools down fast . Me 93 going down the road at 70 mph at a 70% day mine runs 140 - 145 now when I stop at a red light or in traffic will climb to 150-160 then I flip on the trans cooing fan . Sounds like the converter has for some reason making the trans temp to go up , now a stall converter will make the temp go up if it's a stall ?? I have spent the last mouth trying to keep my new $5000,00 trans cool finely went to a rear cooler with a fan, I removed the spare tire and installed back there but that's not for everybody. I would say a big trans cooler with fan in front of your radiator but that is a not an easy deal to set up .. I would call the converter people and ask why my trans temp has gone up with this new converter.
Yes not good at 220 the fluid will burn ,needs to not go over 180 for a very long running time ,when the outside temp goes to 80-90 I think you will really have a problem . Coolant temp and oil about right for a stock set up ,I have a 3-row radiator with A/C on in traffic my temp will go to 205 but cools down fast . Me 93 going down the road at 70 mph at a 70% day mine runs 140 - 145 now when I stop at a red light or in traffic will climb to 150-160 then I flip on the trans cooing fan . Sounds like the converter has for some reason making the trans temp to go up , now a stall converter will make the temp go up if it's a stall ?? I have spent the last mouth trying to keep my new $5000,00 trans cool finely went to a rear cooler with a fan, I removed the spare tire and installed back there but that's not for everybody. I would say a big trans cooler with fan in front of your radiator but that is a not an easy deal to set up .. I would call the converter people and ask why my trans temp has gone up with this new converter.
Something to consider here. Are you using the factory GM 4L60e temp sensor? The GM thermistor isn't very accurate. Or at least some of them aren't. Before I panicked I would use a good temp probe to find out for sure. You said the high temp started after the rebuild. During that rebuild did you replace the internal harness and the temp sensor? Most people do because they aren't very expensive. But the replacement thermistors can be a little off. A basic class K thermocouple run down the dipstick tube and compare that to the temp your seeing on your gauge would tell you for sure. If you don't have a temp probe there are a couple options at Harbor Freight that work great for this.
Also new transmissions will run a little hot. But this shouldn't last for a long time. After break in the temps should come down. Also after break in Dexron 6 will lower temps a bit as apposed to older generations of ATF. But I never use that stuff on a fresh build. After the break in of the 4L80e I built I was getting 180 ish deg temps in my 84. After switching to Dex 6 It dropped about 10 degrees or so on average.
Your water and oil temps are okay but it only being 75 out I suspect when it's warm they will be to high. A DeWitts large radiator would help all your temps since the auto trans has a radiator cooler. If that isn't enough then add an inline cooler in front of the radiator.
Someone ought to post the procedure using the DIC to access transmission temps and then maybe several could post back what they're actually seeing for temps and also mentioning miles and if some sort of a 'stall' converter.
and also mentioning miles and if some sort of a 'stall' converter.
…also if they’re running an aftermarket radiator or aux cooler. Also, if the radiator is bypassed or not.
I just got back from a drive. I’ll take it out again and get some numbers. On the 96 I can just get the trans temp by cycling the gauge button on the dash.
The car is a 96 LT1 with 65k miles on the ticker. Stock 4L60E, never been rebuilt, original torque converter. Stock original radiator. No aux trans cooler of any sort. The transmission fluid was flushed out and replaced with Mobil1 full synth at about 55k miles.
The engine coolant temps throughout this process were between 193 and 198 during all driving portions and hovered around 205 during the idling portions.
Ambient temperature 45F.
Trans temps were as follows;
Initial cruise at normal driving habits 175
Spirited driving including a few rounds of WOT upshifts mixed with some engine braking got it up to 195
Return back to normal driving habits and after 10 mins it brought it back down to 180
Return to garage and sit idling (in gear) for 10 mins took it up to 235
Took it back out to normal driving for 20 mins (mostly highway) brought it back down to 200
Return to garage and sit idling (in park) for 10 mins and it maintained 200
According to this set of tests, sitting in gear idling is what builds the most heat.
I believe maybe '95 & '96 are he only years that have the Trans Temp available in the digital display. I thought I had read '94 also several year ago but I could document it today. This is from a '95 Owners Manual
I believe maybe '95 & '96 are he only years that have the Trans Temp available in the digital display. I thought I had read '94 also several year ago but I could document it today. This is from a '95 Owners Manual
I’ve learned that if you get stuck in traffic sitting still for any length of time it’s certainly worth putting it in neutral or park as it will keep the transmission temperature lower as opposed to holding the car still while idling in gear.
Phobos84 has the best suggestion if you are concerned about temps. Use an external measuring device made for accurate readings. What some are forgetting here is that with no external trans cooler, then when idling without the fan kicking on, the trans temp is going to closely follow the engine temp. The heat exchanger in the radiator works both ways. If the water temp climbs during idling, then the temp of the trans fluid is also going to rise.
Phobos84 has the best suggestion if you are concerned about temps. Use an external measuring device made for accurate readings. What some are forgetting here is that with no external trans cooler, then when idling without the fan kicking on, the trans temp is going to closely follow the engine temp. The heat exchanger in the radiator works both ways. If the water temp climbs during idling, then the temp of the trans fluid is also going to rise.
I've spent a lot of time messing around with GM sensors over the years. Mostly because I'm a nerd. But one thing for sure is any GM oil sensor that is a thermistor (two wire) is not at all linear and the gauges that read that signal usually are. So either the high or low end of the gauges readout is not accurate. So a linear thermocouple to test the actual temp is critical so you're not throwing money at a problem that doesn't exist. I've also noticed that sometimes these thermistors will change over time with age and are very suseptable to corrosion because they are based on resistance (ohms). So I would get this
This meter is under $50 and comes with a K thermocouple with a fairly long very thin cable. This can easily be attached to the trans dip stick and dropped down into the pan. This thing is much more accurate than the GM sensor is.
But like arbee said your trans temp will follow your engine temp. A lower temp thermostat and having your fans kick on sooner may help.
Last edited by Phobos84; Feb 26, 2024 at 02:40 PM.
'95 A/T Temp Question
