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Hey I'm going to be replacing my Bose system with aftermarket head unit and speakers I'm not going to be using the Bose speakers and amps but going to continue using the Bose enclosure in the doors and removing them the rear and installing 6x9 I want to continue using the factory speaker wiring so do I need to remove the bose relay also? Or anything else I need to do. All answers and suggestions are appreciated 👍 oh and I'm doing this with my 85 Vette.
I mounted my amp behind the panel that a PO put in place of the breadbox. I ran RCA patch cables up to it and then attached the amp into the factory (Bose system) wires back to each of the 4 speakers.
I also used the bose relay up front to power my amp. So, its gets power thru that relay and the turn on signal from the head unit.
Eventually i want to go back to that project to add a powered sub in the rear. When i do, i expect to use one of the power wires that came to the rear speaker amp.
if you were after seriois sound and power, this setup wouldnt be the nest. But for my medim power amp 50wRMS×4, it is sufficient.
I have yet to see a comprehensive audio system install write up guide posted that makes use of the factory bose wiring.
While on principle it can be done as each corner of the car does have its own pair of "signal" (lower) level hot and ground leads which come from thea head unit, these leads really are not advisable to send actual audio power through. They were originally designed and spec'd just to carry the signal level while each corner had its own amp and hot leads.
If you were going to use these low power signal level leads to carry actual power (25-45 Watts RMS from a head unit) to the speakers, just know that it isn't advisable. That being said, I am certainly interested in the outcome myself and maybe other C4 owners might use your install guide.
Most audio installs in C4s will just run new wire. These cars are noisy to begin with, creaky, rattles, exhaust, windows down... you might want a higher power audio system. I did. I ran new wire, and a remote 5 channel amp in the drivers side storage bin above the ABS unit of my 1989.
I wrote a comprehensive write up on the install:
"Full 1989 Corvette audio upgrade" should get you a Google hit.
Another forum member just posted his very good comprehensive audio install write up as well the other week. He did an excellent job, but all new wire.
I have yet to see a comprehensive audio system install write up guide posted that makes use of the factory bose wiring.
While on principle it can be done as each corner of the car does have its own pair of "signal" (lower) level hot and ground leads which come from thea head unit, these leads really are not advisable to send actual audio power through. They were originally designed and spec'd just to carry the signal level while each corner had its own amp and hot leads.
If you were going to use these low power signal level leads to carry actual power (25-45 Watts RMS from a head unit) to the speakers, just know that it isn't advisable. That being said, I am certainly interested in the outcome myself and maybe other C4 owners might use your install guide.
Most audio installs in C4s will just run new wire. These cars are noisy to begin with, creaky, rattles, exhaust, windows down... you might want a higher power audio system. I did. I ran new wire, and a remote 5 channel amp in the drivers side storage bin above the ABS unit of my 1989.
I wrote a comprehensive write up on the install:
"Full 1989 Corvette audio upgrade" should get you a Google hit.
Another forum member just posted his very good comprehensive audio install write up as well the other week. He did an excellent job, but all new wire.
Good luck!
Well ok I guess I'll have to run new speaker wiring won't be be the first time I do plan to run an external amp for the mids and highs later on. Was hoping to make it a little easier and see if anyone has done it the way I wanted to do it guess not oh well it is what it is. Thanks for the advice.
I have yet to see a comprehensive audio system install write up guide posted that makes use of the factory bose wiring.
While on principle it can be done as each corner of the car does have its own pair of "signal" (lower) level hot and ground leads which come from thea head unit, these leads really are not advisable to send actual audio power through. They were originally designed and spec'd just to carry the signal level while each corner had its own amp and hot leads.
If you were going to use these low power signal level leads to carry actual power (25-45 Watts RMS from a head unit) to the speakers, just know that it isn't advisable. That being said, I am certainly interested in the outcome myself and maybe other C4 owners might use your install guide.
Most audio installs in C4s will just run new wire. These cars are noisy to begin with, creaky, rattles, exhaust, windows down... you might want a higher power audio system. I did. I ran new wire, and a remote 5 channel amp in the drivers side storage bin above the ABS unit of my 1989.
I wrote a comprehensive write up on the install:
"Full 1989 Corvette audio upgrade" should get you a Google hit.
Another forum member just posted his very good comprehensive audio install write up as well the other week. He did an excellent job, but all new wire.
Good luck!
A google search returned no results, other then this thread
When i did my 89 conv i did 3 way 6x9 in the rear, eliminated the door speakers, 4x6 3way in the dash and a pioneer head unit. All tied together with 12 gauge speaker wire. Sounds fantastic.
Thanks for bringing this back up... I took a picture and forgot to post it up to show how i mounted my amp....
I have also updated how I power that amp. It was beginning to melt the connector at the Bose Amp Relay, so I ran a dedicated fused 10GA line from the battery.
Hey
Don’t know about 85
87 Bose speakers are common ground. I was able to re-pin the plugs without running new speaker wires. Needless to say I wasn’t going for a high end install. Mounted 5” round in doors and 6x9s out back
As far as wiring gauge goes, you'd be fine with a 50wRMS amp. Remember, that's only 50w at a steady frequency into a resistive load. A speaker is a reactive load, and between crossovers and impedence rise, you may end up with an actual 4-5w going to tweeters and maybe 15 going to midbass. With that length of wire even 24g would suffice worst case scenario, you're probably talking 1 amp max, if that.
Now I wouldn't do that just because I have a 7 channel with 400w going to my midbass, but for low power it's absolutely fine.
I'll do a write-up here soon- I've done tweeters and midrange up front, midbass in the rear, and an SQL15 V2 sub in 3ft³ with over 3000w rms on the sub channel. This is a sound quality focused build, which is an unbelievably bad idea in a C4 lol. Worst platform ever for audio, but oh well!
Using factory speaker wiring.
