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When shifting just the 4 speed portion sometimes it will just not shift. Feels like you just hit a hard stop.
when searching for info on it most of the time people say its clutch related or they blame the pilot bearing. Both of which are brand new.
now here is the weird bit it will do this both with the engine off or on, and if you push it up to where it stops and slowly let off the clutch it will slip into gear.
it almost seems like the teeth of the gear perfectly line up in such a way that it blocks it from going into gear which shouldn't be possible.
also Its probably not syncros because it will still do it when I let out the clutch in neutral to manualy synchronize the gears.
help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Stuck a camera under the car and lifted it up seems like the ajuster nuts on the shift linkages have backed out somehow. I'm going to realign the shifter and update.
So I pulled the shifter out, cleaned it, greased it, then aligned it. It shifts a lot smoother now, but it still randomly blocks shifts.
Have you found a solution for your issue ?
I have similar problems. When I bought C4, all gears seems to work quite good. I had first trip ca 15km and find out that it is a problem sometimes with 1st and reverse. Then it was ok. Today I wanted to have a ride and I was not able to put reverse. I did it with grinding. Then I was not able to put 1st gear. I started from 2nd. Then seems to be ok, but on first lights I was not able to put any gear. The were blocked. Pushing clutch few times did not helped. Finally I managed to put a gear and back, but it looks that problem is more serious.
Are there symptoms of end of clutch ? Or maybe it is some problem with gear adjustment ?
For me the issue seemed to go away after emptying the gear box filling with kerosene running at idle going though the gears at idle, then filling back with the spec gear oil. Try to find stuff without lsd additive if possible. As for your first gear lockout l think I had that a few times and could get it in gear by slowly letting off the clutch till it lined up. As for your reverse grinding you ought to put it in first gear before putting it in reverse since it’s not synchronized.
oh by the way in my experience a clutch going out lends itself to problems getting moving, not putting in gear. You may want to look at your clutch hydraulics and make sure it’s fully bled
For me the issue seemed to go away after emptying the gear box filling with kerosene running at idle going though the gears at idle, then filling back with the spec gear oil. Try to find stuff without lsd additive if possible. As for your first gear lockout l think I had that a few times and could get it in gear by slowly letting off the clutch till it lined up. As for your reverse grinding you ought to put it in first gear before putting it in reverse since it’s not synchronized.
oh by the way in my experience a clutch going out lends itself to problems getting moving, not putting in gear. You may want to look at your clutch hydraulics and make sure it’s fully bled
Yes, thats my plan to start from bleeding.
There are special cleaners for gearbox, maybe I will use it. Just checked that according service manual gear oil in 4+3 should not be changed . Maybe thats source of the problem.
Thanks !
Possibly, I’m not fancy enough for special cleaners. And I thought it was around 30K or 50k miles for the manual trans gear oil change. As far as I’m aware every fluid in these cars has a service interval.
Possibly, I’m not fancy enough for special cleaners. And I thought it was around 30K or 50k miles for the manual trans gear oil change. As far as I’m aware every fluid in these cars has a service interval.
From service manual: According to General Motors, the manual transmission fluid on 1984–88 Corvettes, equipped with the 4-speed manual transmission (with automatic overdrive), does not require changing. However the fluid in the overdrive unit must be changed every 30,000 miles (50,000km). Dexron(r) II, or its latest superseding grade of automatic transmission fluid is the only type of fluid that can be used on these vehicles. The use of any other fluids or additives may damage the transmission.
BTW. I have a question about overdrive. I can switch it, it goes smoothly, get indication light as well. When I accelerate it drop it smoothly as well. Only problem is when I manually switch it off, it jerk. I think it is not normal ?
From service manual: According to General Motors, the manual transmission fluid on 1984–88 Corvettes, equipped with the 4-speed manual transmission (with automatic overdrive), does not require changing. However the fluid in the overdrive unit must be changed every 30,000 miles (50,000km). Dexron(r) II, or its latest superseding grade of automatic transmission fluid is the only type of fluid that can be used on these vehicles. The use of any other fluids or additives may damage the transmission.
BTW. I have a question about overdrive. I can switch it, it goes smoothly, get indication light as well. When I accelerate it drop it smoothly as well. Only problem is when I manually switch it off, it jerk. I think it is not normal ?
Engage the clutch when shifting in or out of Overdrive. This ensures a smooth shift with no jerking or bumping. I've always done this and my Overdrive works perfectly.
When the cars were new and being driven daily 15-ish K miles a year, the 30,000 mile interval for overdrive service makes sense. Every 2-3 years. But now the overdrives are obsolete. There is limited (none?) parts availability and people that know how how to fix them. If something is beginning to let go internally such as the snap-ring tangs or thrust washer you want to know about it before the unit fails completely. There may be a chance to save some parts (like the case) if you find the problem early. So much shorter mileage intervals now make sense.
For myself, the #1 reason to drop the pan for a service is to look in the pan to see what's in it. You of course don't expect, and don't want to see anything. But if there is foreign material, now you know that something is letting go. I now service the OD in my 85 about every 5 years. Which is about 500-1,000 miles. May seem like overkill, but its 40 years old (38 years since it was repaired with the updates) and I don't want to have to find parts for it.