When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I want to finally get my car back together and drive it. It all started by replacing the battery. After several OCD moments I had the battery tray out and noticed battery acid puke on the frame rail. The acid caused the frame paint to peel. So I’m now looking for a good durable paint/coating that matches the very matte original frame paint. I will be removing the rear portion of the fender liner for better access and moving the various electronics out of the way. I’d prefer a brush on but I might be able to spray by removing everything from the area and masking what can’t be removed. I really like a product called chassis saver because of its quality and durability (like POR15 but better) but even the low sheen version I think will be too shiny. What have you guys used? Right now this is the hold up because I’m not sticking the tray and battery back in without fixing this. My brain will not allow it.
Dr Cook thanks for the suggestions. After breaking down the car further I discovered quite a bit of peeling paint and surface rust. Luckily, there’s no pitting and after I’m done prepping I’m confident I can get it fully cleaned up. I bought Eastwood’s rust encapsulator plus and their extreme frame paint in satin for a top coat that won’t fade. I’ve come to find that rust in this area is very common for C4’s. I think it’s due to the cowl drain dumping directly on this area, the battery puking in this area, and water splashing in from the A arm area. So I plan to extend the cowl drain tube to dump on the ground. I’m not sure if I’m missing an insert on the middle section of the wheel well splash guard, but I do know there are panels that are available that close up the area around the A arms better. Below are some photos of where I’m at so far. Splash guards removed and you can see the pile of battery corrosion and the rust on the frame. I’ll be removing the cross brace, AIR tube, etc for better access. The worst spot in the corner. I’ll be cleaning up the ground strap and getting new hardware. The surface rust and peeling paint extend up to the area under the ASR
Welcome. I am trying to figure out on this forum on how to create a footer on the bottom of my posts. DR = David Richard, most everyone just calls me Dave. Using drcook on forums and such goes back a long time, 47 yrs to be exact. Before writing commercial software I was a tool maker/high precision machinist and the last gig was at Goodyear Aerospace. We had security badges. The badges had our picture and initials and last name. I was at a gas station after work, all dirty, scruffy factory clothes and the kid pumping gas asked if I was a doctor.
It just stuck
As an added precaution with rust, I use a small needle scaler, cheap from Harbor Freight and then either OsPho or a Rust Reformer before the Rust Encapsolator.
i wouldn't get carried away with chassis black paint. unless you have a museum piece, and contrary to the experts, plain old satin black rustoleum will suffice.
...before writing commercial software I was a tool maker/high precision machinist and the last gig was at Goodyear Aerospace. l
Goodyear Aerospace - wow . left Wright-Patt and started there in 1984. went thru the Loral takeover and ended up retiring from Lockheed-Martin. same job, same desk, three different companies. with the takeover/merger agreements, i actually get a retirement check from Goodyear corporate. retired now some 17 years. that whole place is pretty much shut down, but Wheel and Brake is still hanging on.
Goodyear Aerospace - wow . left Wright-Patt and started there in 1984. went thru the Loral takeover and ended up retiring from Lockheed-Martin. same job, same desk, three different companies. with the takeover/merger agreements, i actually get a retirement check from Goodyear corporate. retired now some 17 years. that whole place is pretty much shut down, but Wheel and Brake is still hanging on.
Remember when they got us all together out in the Airdock and the president of GAC said "Contrary to what you have heard, we are not for sale" and 3 days later in the Akron Leakin' Urinal the news about GAC being sold was reported on ?
I started there in 1979 and worked in Plant D (Defense systems) until about 1983, was off due to a major surgery on my hand and went back to work in Corporate writing software for them. I helped put the payroll system into place (both hourly and salary) and then when I left there, I was hired by a consulting company and then went to Alltel Telephone Co in Hudson and designed their HR/Payroll database. From there some side gigs, back to Firestone Tire & Rubbers in the old Plant 1 on S, Main doing payroll/hr system consulting and there until I sorta retired at age 53 up at KeyBank in Cleverland.
I actually live west of the complex there straight west on 224 out to 21 and then a mile north. On a prior thread I had shared how GAC (back then Goodyear Aircraft Co) had a hand in the 1953 Corvette and possibly later years
Very cool guys. Sound like awesome jobs. I’m hoping to create enough room that I can get my little angle grinder in there with abrasive pads. Sanding pads if needed. Supplemented by small wire brushes and scraping tools. Hoping to get rid of the surface rust as close to 100% as possible. I have used rust encapsulators before, POR 15 and chassis saver brands, and I’ve found they don’t give a crap whether it’s bare metal or not, they stick like hell and are super hard when dry. I can’t believe how bad this area is. It doesn’t reflect the rest of the car and the passenger side frame looks like new. It’s just a major moisture and crap collection point. I’ll post the finished product when it’s done. Don’t hold your breath, I’m a good 9 years from full service retirement and have teenagers that require the rest of my time, love and attention. But every now and then when they are all in bed, I sneak out and love the vette too.
I use a needle scaler as I said above. Use this to look the part up at Harbor Freight. You do need an air compressor though. They really work well. They will strip the rust off to almost the bare metal really fast and get into areas that are hard to reach otherwise.
If you need a picture of me holding one to see the actual size. Say so.
Yes fellas I have a compressor, a needle scaler, various die grinders, etc. I forgot to respond to that. I want it to match because the areas I’m redoing aren’t just hidden areas. You can see the frame rails in the area of the control arms so I didn’t want the sheen to be a lot glossier than the rest of the frame which won’t be redone because it’s in great shape. I’ll be redoing it from the shock tower to the corner where the rockers start. The rust removal will be top notch I promise. I’ve completely redone my share of pickup trucks and cars from living in the salt belt. I don’t like watching my vehicles rot away so I try to prevent rust the best I can, repair surface rust as it shows up, and replace the pickup beds with southern take offs. In my younger days I had a Subaru WRX. I spent a good deal on a motor swap/driveline build on that and it had some pretty good surface rust on the rear cradle, cross members, subframes etc. So off went the entire suspension, rear cradle, radiator support, and cross members. All of it was taken down to bare metal and coated with chassis saver. Completely redid the entire frame and suspension because why build a nice car on a rust bucket. So I’ve got quite a bit of experience with this, just not with the vette.
You ought to try living here in NE Ohio. We have a huge salt mine under Lake Erie and after snow storms, most vehicles that are driven look like official Morton Mobiles. Average rocker panel life span is 6'ish years if a vehicle isn't undercoated. Fenders go quick also.
Everything that C4 Steck is doing has to be done to stop the rust. That is why I usually use OsPho which is phosphoric acid to convert and stop the rust before any kind of painting.
My vette will never see salt and isn’t the reason for the rust but yeah cars are a permanent white here in the winter too. We use “fluid film” as a protectant on our trucks and daily drivers here. It’s a never drying oily film that creates a barrier between the salt and protected surface. Gets pressure washed off after April.
My vette will never see salt and isn’t the reason for the rust but yeah cars are a permanent white here in the winter too. We use “fluid film” as a protectant on our trucks and daily drivers here. It’s a never drying oily film that creates a barrier between the salt and protected surface. Gets pressure washed off after April.
Ours will never see the salt either. I never drive until we get a couple good rains to wash the roads clean. HOWEVER, I have seen folks driving their Corvettes all winter long around here.
People use fluid film as well as a product from a company called Ziebart.
Original (looking) Frame Paint
. left Wright-Patt and started there in 1984. went thru the Loral takeover and ended up retiring from Lockheed-Martin. same job, same desk, three different companies. with the takeover/merger agreements, i actually get a retirement check from Goodyear corporate. retired now some 17 years. that whole place is pretty much shut down, but Wheel and Brake is still hanging on.
