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Yes has keyed spline to put the OPTI and the motor in time with each other ,turning the hub can't remember that one but won't be too hard to figure that one out .
many parts just need some love with a rubber hammer to encourage them to turn loose of the engine. for those determined parts I also have one brass hammer and one with a sledge head on a 12" hickory handle that I call "the persuader"
Thanks guys. New opti is on. Will this torn boot cause misfiring? All plug wires are new. But some were a pain to disconnect. I put new ones back in the summer.
Most likely not, the boot is there for protection and weather proofing. Now whether or not the torn boot will lead to the plug wire failing sooner due to corrosion or something like that... Maybe.
Top 2 water pump bolts are quite hard to turn. So, I am going to stop and see what's up with that. Not liking it. I did clean all the bolts quite good.
how did you manage to get your harmonic balancer off? I'm currently trying to get to the opti now to replace it in my 96 lt4. I removed the 3 bolts and it wont budge, any tips?
Are you saying it just stuck on the yoke? Try a piece of wood a pry bar. Might be just froze from build up if never removed. You will have to pay with it to get it out of there once it's free.
how did you manage to get your harmonic balancer off? I'm currently trying to get to the opti now to replace it in my 96 lt4. I removed the 3 bolts and it wont budge, any tips?
Use a 2 jaw puller from the front of the engine. Undo the hard line on top of the steering rack and bungee cord it out of the way if necessary. Pull on the slots near the center of the hub, not the outside of the hub or you might damage the rubber damper section.
how did you manage to get your harmonic balancer off? I'm currently trying to get to the opti now to replace it in my 96 lt4. I removed the 3 bolts and it wont budge, any tips?
And if you don't know, the balancer will only bolt up one way. So if it's on with all 3 bolts in, you re installed it correctly. No need to line uo timing marks. But, if you end up having to remove the hub, then I would double check timing.
Did many wot runs today to at least 6k rpms. No bogs or misfiring. It is the front crank seal leaking. Which fine, I can do. But, the misfire from yesterday is haunting me. And I really don't want to be beating on the car to check if that high rpm misfire comes back. I would hate to take it apart, fix the leak, test drive it, and the high rpm bog/miss comes back. That would suck.
Any input on where to go from here?
Or, if I should start a new thread on that, let me know. And I'll do that.
Last edited by 1993C4LT1; Feb 3, 2025 at 02:51 PM.
Did many wot runs today to at least 6k rpms. No bogs or misfiring. It is the front crank seal leaking. Which fine, I can do. But, the misfire from yesterday is haunting me. And I really don't want to be beating on the car to check if that high rpm misfire comes back. I would hate to take it apart, fix the leak, test drive it, and the high rpm bog/miss comes back. That would suck.
Any input on where to go from here?
Or, if I should start a new thread on that, let me know. And I'll do that.
Can you better describe the misfire? Was it jerking or just not pulling cleanly/powerfully? I have an issue on my car where on some runs, I hit full timing advance (37*) and on others it's not advancing beyond 27* advance. Do you have a scanner that you can connect to watch timing advance on WOT pulls?
Any reason you went Petris Opti vs. having your OEM one rebuilt by Brad (OptiSpark Solutions)? Not saying it's your issue, but don't throw out that factory Opti with the Mitsu sensor - those are the best and carry a lot of value (~$200).
Silly question, opti removal
