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Everything is telling you, that you have the wrong resistance.
I have a locksmith near by, can I get all 15 code blanks and install them one at a time to see if security light goes off? Or do they need to be cut so key can be turned on?
I have a locksmith near by, can I get all 15 code blanks and install them one at a time to see if security light goes off? Or do they need to be cut so key can be turned on?
Go to a locksmith and ask that he cut you a brass 'work key' to match your key that rotates the cylinder. Use that 'work key' to test with your individual resistors that you've purchased. You could knock out the resistor of one of your keys that rotates it now if you wanted to. How many do you have that rotate?
*** Or if your using a resistor to the car side harness your key 'as is' is fine.
I have a locksmith near by, can I get all 15 code blanks and install them one at a time to see if security light goes off? Or do they need to be cut so key can be turned on?
I think that we already know the key number because the resistance is 113 which is key 5 the interrogator will just measure the key resistance?
Yet key #5 is obviously not correct as you are getting a solid security light. The interrogator measures keys, but also will help in figuring out the CCM side.
Yet key #5 is obviously not correct as you are getting a solid security light. The interrogator measures keys, but also will help in figuring out the CCM side.
It's been done in the past also using an adjustable10K potentiometer that will do all except #15.
Another question for you guys, I have a locksmith near by, If I was Able to get all 15 key code blanks would I be able to just to install them one at a time, to see if the security light goes off? Or do they need to be cut so the ignition switch in turned on?
The ignition needs to be turned ON for the CCM to read the resistance, and to see if the SECURITY light is OFF. You don't have to be able to turn the key. The answer is in the second paragraph of Post #12.
The Interrogator can also be plugged into the connector under the dash to try the 15 codes to find the one that the CCM is programmed for. Find a locksmith that has one and contract him to figure out the required code. Even if the correct code is the last one he tries he'll be done in an hour and a half including cutting you new keys.
Instead of paying a locksmith a couple hundred dollars just go to a local electronics store, buy a 1200 ohm resistor for like $2, solder some short wires with thin, single male end connectors to it, use it to jumper the 2 pin cylinder breakout connector going to the ccm at the base of the steering column and see if it starts. For what it’s worth if you’re getting a data pid about your key resistance to the ccm, the entire circuit from the key cylinder to it is good. If your ecm data show no fuel allowed/ invalid theft data, the entire circuit from the ccm to the ecm is good.
Just wanted to let everyone that the problem was the wrong key resistance, I brought a vats by-pass kit. The key number was 6.(1.47K)So I plan on getting some key blanks and having them cut.
Just wanted to let everyone that the problem was the wrong key resistance, I brought a vats by-pass kit. The key number was 6.(1.47K)So I plan on getting some key blanks and having them cut.
I believe you may have been the only one that didn't realize you had the wrong key/resistor.
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