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Considering going to my local mechanic and having the cooling system, on my 90 C4, done with the machine they have. Has anyone gone this route? Are there any pitfalls I should consider? I am not in a place where i can do a coolant flush myself, but i am pretty sure my car needs it.
Considering going to my local mechanic and having the cooling system, on my 90 C4, done with the machine they have. Has anyone gone this route? Are there any pitfalls I should consider? I am not in a place where i can do a coolant flush myself, but i am pretty sure my car needs it.
No harm in doing it. The only catch would be if there was a small leak somewhere and a previous owner used a stop leak. It might knock that loose. But that is highly unlikely.
I had one done on my new to me at the time (8 years ago) when I was still working and did not know how to do it properly. I am sure the skill of the operator has a lot to do with it. In my 96 GM put little pills in the cooling system at the factory (some kind of stop leak). I don't know if they did in 90. My machine flush actually made it worse. In my opinion it does not move enough water to clean the brown scum film off. This seemed especially true in the pressure reservoir tank and the lower block. A week after my machine flush I turkey basted out some coolant and took it to the shop to show them what it looked like. The response I got was that with older cars it sometimes took 5-6 flushes before it cleaned up. I was not happy but your milage may vary. Dan
Thanks for the feedback. I think my first concern was does it create too much turbulance and cause other issues, but I think what I am seeing is all it really does is change out fluid. But probably churns up enough surface crude to make matters worse. So I may try the shop vac route.
I worked in a shop that used recycled coolant with their "flush", and I'd guess most of them do these days. It just doesn't look, smell, or feel the same.
Thanks for the feedback. I think my first concern was does it create too much turbulance and cause other issues, but I think what I am seeing is all it really does is change out fluid. But probably churns up enough surface crude to make matters worse. So I may try the shop vac route.
Can't be too much turbulence. I guess could be too much pressure. You can look at the date of my post on the shop vac. I have not done it since and it still looks new. A little more work but less than it seems as you don't have to pull the knock sensors. Dan
I worked in a shop that used recycled coolant with their "flush", and I'd guess most of them do these days. It just doesn't look, smell, or feel the same.
What in the hell is "recycled coolant"? Somebody else's old coolant run through a coffee filter? Dan
I don't believe in flushing any fluids in a car. Draina and fill. I would rather do a series of drain and fills to get all fresh fluids in than flushing personally. Especially for a fluid that's easy to service like coolant.
I don't believe in flushing any fluids in a car. Draina and fill. I would rather do a series of drain and fills to get all fresh fluids in than flushing personally. Especially for a fluid that's easy to service like coolant.
If you're afraid to flush or back flush a cooling system because it might cause leaks, then your parts are living on borrowed time. Plus, a garden hose gets nowhere near the 14 psi radiator operating pressure.
If you're afraid to flush or back flush a cooling system because it might cause leaks, then your parts are living on borrowed time. Plus, a garden hose gets nowhere near the 14 psi radiator operating pressure.
It's more or just a general disbelief in the process in general. My 92 runs cool as can be, so I don't see a reason to try any sort of powered flushing, just keep the coolant clean.
To your point, if the hose doesn't create as much pressure as the water pump, what's the benefit other than maybe time?
My tap water has 300ppm worth of crud in it, so I would definitely not use tap water for it personally.
It's more or just a general disbelief in the process in general. My 92 runs cool as can be, so I don't see a reason to try any sort of powered flushing, just keep the coolant clean.
To your point, if the hose doesn't create as much pressure as the water pump, what's the benefit other than maybe time?
My tap water has 300ppm worth of crud in it, so I would definitely not use tap water for it personally.
I totally agree with the no tap water!! With my shop vac method you can use tap water for the flushing. After you are done flushing you can let the shop vac continue to run and push most all the water out of the block. I am on well water so I did not want any of that in there. Dan
I think people blow the tap water thing out of proportion. If you were so inclined, you could buy a cooling system pressure tester from Harbor Freight. Pump it over 15 PSI and check for leaks. If nothing at 20 psi and it holds for 15 minutes, your system is good.
I think people blow the tap water thing out of proportion. If you were so inclined, you could buy a cooling system pressure tester from Harbor Freight. Pump it over 15 PSI and check for leaks. If nothing at 20 psi and it holds for 15 minutes, your system is good.
I think the words "tap water" can vary widely from place to place. Dan