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I just bought this 88 4+3, and was told it needed a clutch. So I purchased the kit and installed the parts. Bleed the slave and I have to pump the pedal many times to get it to go into 1st or 2nd, but grinds bad trying to do reverse, and when it does go into reverse it moves 3 or 4 I ches and then the clutch slips and won't back up, but 1st it will move. Haven't made it out the shop yet. I own 3 vetts but they are all autos. Any ideas?
I agree that it sounds like air in the clutch hydraulic system. Its recommended that the clutch master cylinder should be replaced when replacing the clutch slave cylinder. The pedal should not have to be pumped and having to do so is an indication of the system not being bled thoroughly or a failure of the master cylinder. My recommendation is to replace the clutch master cylinder as well, and thoroughly bleed the system.
I have a 4+3 in my 84 and a tip for putting the trans in reverse is to put it in 1st gear before putting it into reverse. I do this every time. Otherwise, sometimes its notchy and can cause a quick little grind. Putting the trans in 1st before reverse eliminates this.
Once you've bled everything and you're convinced you've done everything you can think of, try this trick: Pump the clutch pedal about a dozen times, and hold it down for 15 seconds or so. With the pedal down, slide your foot off the pedal sideways, allowing it to pop up. Repeat this process a bunch of times and you might see some results. You're compressing the fluid, and then giving it a quick release, which moves air bubbles along as well. Good luck, and let us know if you have success.
A 4+3 that will move forward but not in reverse indicates an OD that has failed.
I bet you also have no engine braking. Get it going down the road and down shift, itll just keep rolling at the same speed.
I think your clutch master cylinder has air in it or something along those lines. The same thing happened to me once on my way to get a smog. Cruising down the freeway, tried downshifting to third, and poof, can’t get into any gear without pumping the clutch pedal.
I recommend bleeding it with the pedal pumping method described above and seeing how it reacts. Like Mr mazdaverx7 described, my reverse is much happier if I shift into first THEN reverse. One of the many oddities of this transmission.
I have some doubts that bad direct clutches are causing your reverse issues, but definitely try the engine braking test that 2011KLR describes. That can pretty much confirm if those are toast. And if you have any more problems, you know where to find us.
As it says in the service manual: Remove the slave and hold with the bleeder facing up. Open the bleeder, push the piston all the way in and hold it there. Let it drip for a min or two. Don't let it run dry. Close the bleeder and reinstall.