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Does the passenger side window switch have a light?
Question pertains to a '90.
Honestly I can't remember if it does or does not because I never look over there, but I did look over there tonight and noticed that there was no orange light on the passenger side window switch.
I have a take-out passenger side window switch from my 92. I just looked at it, the bulb does not appear to be replaceable. I know that it is a bulb, and not an LED from my automated window installation. The illumination is the gray wire. And it grounds through the black wire in the other 3-cavity connector. (If the window works from the passenger switch, the ground is good.) Check that you have power on the gray wire with the park/tail lights on. The voltage varies with the dash dimmer paddle.
EDIT: The bulb IS serviceable. It is in a socket on the side of the switch.
I have a take-out passenger side window switch from my 92. I just looked at it, the bulb does not appear to be replaceable. I know that it is a bulb, and not an LED from my automated window installation. The illumination is the gray wire. And it grounds through the black wire in the other 3-cavity connector. (If the window works from the passenger switch, the ground is good.) Check that you have power on the gray wire with the park/tail lights on. The voltage varies with the dash dimmer paddle.
Good information. I'll have to mess around with it then. I did get a real good look at the driver side master window switch when I had it all apart the other day, rebuilding the power lock switch terminals, and yeah, those bulbs didn't appear to be replaceable.
I've got another broken wire terminal that needs rebuilt on the passenger side lock switch so I'll check out that window switch while I'm in there.
The bulbs are replaceable. They are part #'d in the FSM 8B Section. I believe now the only practical and inexpensive way to accomplish replacement is reuse the bulb socket and just use the appropriate 2 wire bulb.
WVZR's comment made me go get the switch and look again. The socket is on the side of the switch, not the back where I was looking for it last night.
The 8B section in my 92 paper FSM doesn't list the switch illumination bulb. The smallest physically is the #74 for the IRVM Console Flood, and the vanity lights. #74 is larger than the tiny bulb in the switch.
Thanks. I learned something.
1992 Passenger Power Window Switch. Illumination socket and bulb removed.
WVZR's comment made me go get the switch and look again. The socket is on the side of the switch, not the back where I was looking for it last night.
The 8B section in my 92 paper FSM doesn't list the switch illumination bulb. The smallest physically is the #74 for the IRVM Console Flood, and the vanity lights. #74 is larger than the tiny bulb in the switch.
Thanks. I learned something.
Try 8C-45 in your FSM. I believe that the bulb and even filter is available from JKL Components. I have never done them but they have much information. Many have guessed in the past that a 74 was correct and of course they were wrong. I used to buy a bulb for Delco radios that I was quite sure would work. I sent my last bulb to a fellow a few years ago. JKL likely has a bulb & socket also but 2 wire bulb should do and if you wanted to change filters to red, blue or yellow it's also likely possible.
IHBD - measure the diameter of your socket and I believe the bulb could be easily ID'd. If 8mm then a T1 bulb, if 10mm then a T1 1/4 is likely correct. The filter slips off easily and the OD of the bulb could help too. A 3mm bulb OD I'd think correct for T1 and 5mm a T1 1/4?
WVZR's comment made me go get the switch and look again. The socket is on the side of the switch, not the back where I was looking for it last night.
The 8B section in my 92 paper FSM doesn't list the switch illumination bulb. The smallest physically is the #74 for the IRVM Console Flood, and the vanity lights. #74 is larger than the tiny bulb in the switch.
Thanks. I learned something.
1992 Passenger Power Window Switch. Illumination socket and bulb removed.
Yeah, same setup on my '90.
It's a tiny little thing...
In the mean time, I took the rest of the switch completely apart to clean all of the switch with contact cleaner inside the thing and ended up frying the switch tinkerng around.
Heh heh. It figures it'd be something like that.
So guess I'll have to go look for switch now.
Ah well...at least I got my power locks working right after repairing those terminals.
Shoulda just left well enough alone as far as the window switch light, I guess
IHBD - measure the diameter of your socket and I believe the bulb could be easily ID'd. If 8mm then a T1 bulb, if 10mm then a T1 1/4 is likely correct. The filter slips off easily and the OD of the bulb could help too. A 3mm bulb OD I'd think correct for T1 and 5mm a T1 1/4?
Looks like the same bulb as the one in the rear view mirror that's always on .
IHBD - measure the diameter of your socket and I believe the bulb could be easily ID'd.
You said "socket", but I measured the bulb itself with a micrometer. .120", so 3mm. The bulb does not pull out of the socket. I can see the leads of the bulb wrapped around the holder on the exterior.
EDIT: You did mean "socket". The O.D. of the socket flange is 8mm. Cheers.
Years ago a friend and I researched this bulb/socket for the headlight switch in his 96 Impala SS. He found something, I want to say he found the bulb. Don't hold me to this, but does "65" or "62" sound familiar?
A 7219 is a T1, 2 wire terminals, 12V that I always thought would be correct. Mouser still has stock and there's several resellers on eBay - years ago a person would 'walk in' to a Radio Shack and for less than a 1$ leave with 6 or so in hand.
A 7219 is a T1, 2 wire terminals, 12V that I always thought would be correct.
I just put a notation on page 8C-45 in my FSM. Thanks.
I miss Radio Shack for these common items. I have a great well-stocked retail outlet but its 45 minutes each way away.
In 2008 I was on a cross country trip in my friend's F250 that I now own. The cruise control would drop out when the truck hit a bump, and eventually wouldn't stay engaged at all. Annoying. At a fuel stop I found some ScothLock connectors in the underhood brake switch wiring that had become loose and jankey. I suppose I could have twisted the wires and taped them, but I commented to my companion "I think I found the problem. Let's see if we can find a Radio Shack." She pointed across the street, and said "Like that one?" I bought some butt splices, and we had cruise for the remainder of the trip. They used to be litterally, everywhere, when you needed one.
I just put a notation on page 8C-45 in my FSM. Thanks.
I miss Radio Shack for these common items. I have a great well-stocked retail outlet but its 45 minutes each way away.
In 2008 I was on a cross country trip in my friend's F250 that I now own. The cruise control would drop out when the truck hit a bump, and eventually wouldn't stay engaged at all. Annoying. At a fuel stop I found some ScothLock connectors in the underhood brake switch wiring that had become loose and jankey. I suppose I could have twisted the wires and taped them, but I commented to my companion "I think I found the problem. Let's see if we can find a Radio Shack." She pointed across the street, and said "Like that one?" I bought some butt splices, and we had cruise for the remainder of the trip. They used to be litterally, everywhere, when you needed one.
I miss radio shack.
And Ace hardware, too.
There's not an Ace hardware anywhere within hundreds of miles from here that I know of.