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When changing plugs and cables, do you change optispark too?
No. You can do a cap and rotor though just like you would on a "regular" distributor set up. You will still need to remove the water pump to do even that though... and the balancer.
Previous owner did plugs and cables. If it's running fine, should I let it go or change cap and rotor?
Excessive miles? Oil leaks? Running just fine? If so, leave it until it gives you trouble. Thats a lot of work to go through just for a cap and rotor in my opinion... BUT, if you have high miles and think it might be time for a water pump, then why not just do both ? as well as radiator hoses, coolant flush, and water pump seal "while youre in there".....
Excessive miles? Oil leaks? Running just fine? If so, leave it until it gives you trouble. Thats a lot of work to go through just for a cap and rotor in my opinion... BUT, if you have high miles and think it might be time for a water pump, then why not just do both ? as well as radiator hoses, coolant flush, and water pump seal "while youre in there".....
vette is a 95 with 98k km (61k miles) i dont know when was the last time cap and rotor got changed. Runs strong.
Excessive miles? Oil leaks? Running just fine? If so, leave it until it gives you trouble. Thats a lot of work to go through just for a cap and rotor in my opinion... BUT, if you have high miles and think it might be time for a water pump, then why not just do both ? as well as radiator hoses, coolant flush, and water pump seal "while youre in there".....
coolant flush was done last year.ĥ Might as well do the hoses also.
Personally I wouldn't consider 61k miles to be high mileage at all. My original Opti went 120k miles. If it's running fine, there isn't really much of a reason to tear into things.
You can replace just the plugs and wires, but know that it's going to be a several hour job. It's quite tedious feeding the driver's side wires through the PS pump bracket, and you will need to get under the car to connect those wires to the Opti. Unbolting and moving the ASR servo is also pretty much a must. The passenger side is easier, but plugs 6 and 8 on that side can be a little tricky due to the HVAC housing being right there. Removing the inner wheel well panels also makes this job a little more tolerable. You will need swivels, universals, and various extensions to get it done.
Personally I wouldn't consider 61k miles to be high mileage at all. My original Opti went 120k miles. If it's running fine, there isn't really much of a reason to tear into things.
You can replace just the plugs and wires, but know that it's going to be a several hour job. It's quite tedious feeding the driver's side wires through the PS pump bracket, and you will need to get under the car to connect those wires to the Opti. Unbolting and moving the ASR servo is also pretty much a must. The passenger side is easier, but plugs 6 and 8 on that side can be a little tricky due to the HVAC housing being right there. Removing the inner wheel well panels also makes this job a little more tolerable. You will need swivels, universals, and various extensions to get it done.
plugs and wires were done last year ,so i wont be touching those for a while.
Personally I wouldn't consider 61k miles to be high mileage at all. My original Opti went 120k miles. If it's running fine, there isn't really much of a reason to tear into things.
You can replace just the plugs and wires, but know that it's going to be a several hour job. It's quite tedious feeding the driver's side wires through the PS pump bracket, and you will need to get under the car to connect those wires to the Opti. Unbolting and moving the ASR servo is also pretty much a must. The passenger side is easier, but plugs 6 and 8 on that side can be a little tricky due to the HVAC housing being right there. Removing the inner wheel well panels also makes this job a little more tolerable. You will need swivels, universals, and various extensions to get it done.
Hmmm, I didnt do any of the wire routing from under the car, also didnt remove the ASR....I did remove the belt tensioner which gave allot more room for routing the driver side wires. The only panel I removed was the center panel on the driver side and everything was accessible with extensions and such. It was tight but it went well. Number 8 was the only tough one and that was getting the plug back in... just patience...
I think you made the right choice to leave it for the time being. The LT1 doesn't require the maintenance the the L83 and L98 cars do. It wouldn't hurt to replace the spark plugs if you have no record of them being done. Check the air filter and belt as well. Other than that, there's not a lot to do under the hood on a regular basis.
[QUOTE=mazdaverx7;1609440682]I think you made the right choice to leave it for the time being. The LT1 doesn't require the maintenance the the L83 and L98 cars do. It wouldn't hurt to replace the spark plugs if you have no record of them being done. Check the air filter and belt as well. Other than that, there's not a lot to do under the hood on a regular basis.[/QUOTplugs and wires were done as well as coolant , belt, lower pulley ,oil temp sensor, brakes. All ill do is oil change and decided to change tranny oil and filter.