Ignition key not inserting
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 24
Likes: 6
From: Long Island, NY
Ignition key not inserting
Hello all,
Just wondering if anyone can help: I had an issue with the VATS tab on my key, and I cleaned the tab and also took a hand rocket blower and blew into the ignition lock cylinder. Some dust shot out from around the lock cylinder. But, now the key will not insert completely into the lock cylinder. It falls short about 1/8 inch, and I am unable to turn the cylinder to start the car. The shifter is in reverse, and the steering wheel is in the lock position. I tried some contact cleaner into the lock cylinder as well as a vacuum, but nothing worked.
Has anyone experienced something like this?
Thanks!
Salvatore
Just wondering if anyone can help: I had an issue with the VATS tab on my key, and I cleaned the tab and also took a hand rocket blower and blew into the ignition lock cylinder. Some dust shot out from around the lock cylinder. But, now the key will not insert completely into the lock cylinder. It falls short about 1/8 inch, and I am unable to turn the cylinder to start the car. The shifter is in reverse, and the steering wheel is in the lock position. I tried some contact cleaner into the lock cylinder as well as a vacuum, but nothing worked.
Has anyone experienced something like this?
Thanks!
Salvatore
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,360
Likes: 2,729
If your car is an '86 with an original cylinder your situation is to be expected likely. All '86 and early '87 cars had a TSB that involved replacing lock cylinder and keys. The blade of the key on the newer is longer and the keyway I believe was narrower. I don't recall blade length, but lock cylinder replacement is likely your fix. I recall the newer blade length would work in the older lock cylinder but older not in the new. Have you by-passed VATS with a resistor or other means?
Take your key and match to any new resistance key in someone's inventory. Is yours the same or maybe shorter?
Take your key and match to any new resistance key in someone's inventory. Is yours the same or maybe shorter?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,360
Likes: 2,729
Your 'rocket blower' seems to have created your issue so maybe you rinse and repeat. At this point you've likely nothing to lose. Do you have a spare key? You didn't answer the question: Is VATS by-passed?
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,360
Likes: 2,729
*** If you found a B62 Ilco Key with 'no chip' it would be cheap. A B62-P is a 'chipped' blank and there would be choices.
The final 1/8' of key blank activates a nylon tab on the cylinder case. You might wiggle the key cylinder bezel a bit while depressing just a bit more forcefully.
Last edited by WVZR-1; Mar 21, 2026 at 05:06 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2000
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From: Plantation Florida USAF(Retired) 1966-1990
U.S. Air Force
St. Jude Donor '05 thru '26
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Keep us posted, I'm curious on the repair, when I owned 89, I replaced the ignitions cause of VATS problems?
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Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2024
Posts: 24
Likes: 6
From: Long Island, NY
@1bdvet @WVZR-1
I bought the B62-P blank of the correct resistance, and with more pressure, I was able to push the blank fully into the ignition. The switch turns as it should, and it starts up. I'll get the blank cut, and I will have an extra key, which is good anyway.
Thanks again @WVZR-1 for the tips!
I bought the B62-P blank of the correct resistance, and with more pressure, I was able to push the blank fully into the ignition. The switch turns as it should, and it starts up. I'll get the blank cut, and I will have an extra key, which is good anyway.
Thanks again @WVZR-1 for the tips!
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 25,360
Likes: 2,729
@1bdvet @WVZR-1
I bought the B62-P blank of the correct resistance, and with more pressure, I was able to push the blank fully into the ignition. The switch turns as it should, and it starts up. I'll get the blank cut, and I will have an extra key, which is good anyway.
Thanks again @WVZR-1 for the tips!
I bought the B62-P blank of the correct resistance, and with more pressure, I was able to push the blank fully into the ignition. The switch turns as it should, and it starts up. I'll get the blank cut, and I will have an extra key, which is good anyway.
Thanks again @WVZR-1 for the tips!