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This might sound stupid to some folks, but I'm preparing to bleed my son's '92 and suddenly relialized that I've never bled power brakes. His car is still on jacks (winter storage) with the battery removed. We will be upgrading his brakes by replacing the rear with all new OEM components and moving to the GS 13" upgrade in the front along with new brake hoses. We also bought a set of bleeders from SpeedBleeders.com.
But, do we need to install the battery in order to start the car to "boost" the brakes? Or can the brakes simply be bled without the worrying about power-vacuum for the booster?
Sounds silly, but I wanted to be sure since we'll have the "system" opened up at all four wheels.
Also, should we bleed each wheel when the work is completed for that wheel or wait until the entire system has been replaced then bleed each wheel?
Of course the "big red book" GM Service manual is no help at all here...
You do not need the power on in order to bleed the brakes.
Wait until they are all done then bleed them in the proper order. Farthest away to nearest. That would be right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
Good call buying the Speed Bleeders. I just bleed my brakes for the first time and as I did it I just couldn't imagine what a pain in the azz it would have been if I had to open/close the bleeder with every press of the brake pedal.
Did it myself thanks to the Speed Bleeders. :thumbs:
Good call buying the Speed Bleeders. I just bleed my brakes for the first time and as I did it I just couldn't imagine what a pain in the azz it would have been if I had to open/close the bleeder with every press of the brake pedal. Did it myself thanks to the Speed Bleeders. :thumbs:
Yup - this coming Monday (when the parts arrive from Jeff K & Tirerack) my son & I will do the GS 13" upgrade to his '92. We're also replacing the pads and rotors in the rear (Brembo), then we'll be bleeding the system. I bought the bleed-kit from SpeedBleeders - its a sealed bag that comes with a 3' length of surgial tubing - didn't want to make a mess after installing new brakes and Bilsteins, and brake line hoses, and... :crazy:
I snapped off one and stripped two of the bleeders trying to remove them. I would start spraying them down and make sure you use a 6 pt. wrench to remove them.
Maybe somebody can learn by my mistakes :rolleyes:
A general posting like this one is sure to get many opinions and ideas. Here are some of my ideas for you:
1. Someone has already recommended a six point socket for you. This is very good advice....and will save you money. Do not use an open end wrench for opening the caliper bleeder nuts!!!
2. It is much easier to bleed the brakes if the wheels are removed.
3. Get a 12" length of clear plastic tubing to place on the end of the bleeder nut. This allows you to control the expelling of old fluid.
4. If your current brake fluid is not the same color as the new fluid, consider flushing the entire system.
5. You know that the level of fluid in the master cylinder fluid level must not be depleted before you add more fluid to the master cylinder. Doing this will add air to the hydraulic system.
6. I have learned not to push the brake pedal more than about 50% of its regular travel during the bleeding operation. If you do this, you will force the seals in the master cylinder to operate in areas of the master clylinder that are not "broke in". Doing this will cause early master cylinder failure. I place a block of wood under the pedal to assure this practice is followed.
7. My 89 Helms (GM) manual recommends a caliper bleending order as follows: right front, right rear, left rear and left front. This is different from my regular practice of bleeding brakes.
8. Buy good brake fluid as this is not an item to buy at discount stores!
9. Unless you have some special tools, this is a two person job!
Hope this is helpful! Sam