1st Post - Hot Vette (Long)
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 35
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From: Wylie Texas
1st Post - Hot Vette (Long)
Hello, and thanks for all the entertainment to date. First, I am not a car guy. Or wasn't. I bought a '95 recently (coupe, black on grey, 68K) and absolutely love it. Looks like it may have been hit in the back (one new muffler, one strange tire wear issue, one tweaked rim) but it looks and tracks straight. Problem is, say it with me now, "over heating!" In traffic, hot day, AC on, needle pegged. Then "Low Coolant" light. I don't know if the low coolant situation is a cause or an effect.
In my experience (bikes), over heat + coolant loss = head gasket but I don't see any white smoke. Then I read a post: "Water pump leak ... optispark ... $1,700 repair." The vette was put away that day until repairs can be made. I am going to flush the radiator, replace the water pump gasket, radiator cap, and hoses at the least. Here's where you guys come in:
1. Should I replace the water pump as a pre-emptive strike?
2. If so, should I get an aftermarket water pump?
3. If so, which one?
4. Should I use RTV to augment the gasket?
5. Does a thermostat with a lower threshold really reduce operating temperature? Also, do I need to put the hot thermostat back in to pass emissions testing?
6. Do I add water wetter to coolant or just to water?
7. Are there any other tasks I should address so I can idle safely in traffic?
8. If I had an internal coolant leak, would I see white smoke?
BTW, the AC is always on (except when actually over heating) and both fans run. Cruise temperature is okay, 215 to 225. I hope this isn't too much to ask, I will try and have smaller problems in the future. Thanks for any guidance you can offer. Brett.
In my experience (bikes), over heat + coolant loss = head gasket but I don't see any white smoke. Then I read a post: "Water pump leak ... optispark ... $1,700 repair." The vette was put away that day until repairs can be made. I am going to flush the radiator, replace the water pump gasket, radiator cap, and hoses at the least. Here's where you guys come in:
1. Should I replace the water pump as a pre-emptive strike?
2. If so, should I get an aftermarket water pump?
3. If so, which one?
4. Should I use RTV to augment the gasket?
5. Does a thermostat with a lower threshold really reduce operating temperature? Also, do I need to put the hot thermostat back in to pass emissions testing?
6. Do I add water wetter to coolant or just to water?
7. Are there any other tasks I should address so I can idle safely in traffic?
8. If I had an internal coolant leak, would I see white smoke?
BTW, the AC is always on (except when actually over heating) and both fans run. Cruise temperature is okay, 215 to 225. I hope this isn't too much to ask, I will try and have smaller problems in the future. Thanks for any guidance you can offer. Brett.
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
Re: 1st Post - Hot Vette (Sportryder)
Hi Brett,
Welcome to the board and congrats on your new purchase. First of all, let me qualify by saying I am not a mechanic at all. But I purchased a 1994 in March and had similar problems as you. My crusing temperatures were about 215 and stop and go temps hit 238 degrees. This was going on in May when it was only mid 80's outside temperature. These temps to me are unacceptable.
The first thing I would do is crawl underneath the radiator area and see if there is any blockage of the radiator with weeds, grass, paper, dead animals or whatever might be in there.
I had to take my car to a mechanic and he pulled the radiator and had it sent to Texas Radiator? to be cleaned. When the radiator came back, the radiator shop said it was 40% stopped up. Next, the mechanic installed a switch that turns both fans at 200 and turns them off at 194. I think replacing the thermostat is a good idea, but personally would leave it at stock temp which I believe is 180 degrees.
After the radiator cleaning and the switch installed my crusing temps dropped from 209 to 194. The stop and go temps dropped from 238 to now I haven't seen it over 202. I am very pleased with the results.
The switch is supposedly about 35 bucks and is suppose to be not too difficult to install.
I would assume your radiator has never been professionaly cleaned and that would be the main issue I would try to correct.
There are a lot good people on this forum who can help you out. Good luck!
Drop me an email if you have any further questions. tdowl@hotmail.com
Welcome to the board and congrats on your new purchase. First of all, let me qualify by saying I am not a mechanic at all. But I purchased a 1994 in March and had similar problems as you. My crusing temperatures were about 215 and stop and go temps hit 238 degrees. This was going on in May when it was only mid 80's outside temperature. These temps to me are unacceptable.
The first thing I would do is crawl underneath the radiator area and see if there is any blockage of the radiator with weeds, grass, paper, dead animals or whatever might be in there.
I had to take my car to a mechanic and he pulled the radiator and had it sent to Texas Radiator? to be cleaned. When the radiator came back, the radiator shop said it was 40% stopped up. Next, the mechanic installed a switch that turns both fans at 200 and turns them off at 194. I think replacing the thermostat is a good idea, but personally would leave it at stock temp which I believe is 180 degrees.
After the radiator cleaning and the switch installed my crusing temps dropped from 209 to 194. The stop and go temps dropped from 238 to now I haven't seen it over 202. I am very pleased with the results.
The switch is supposedly about 35 bucks and is suppose to be not too difficult to install.
I would assume your radiator has never been professionaly cleaned and that would be the main issue I would try to correct.
There are a lot good people on this forum who can help you out. Good luck!
Drop me an email if you have any further questions. tdowl@hotmail.com
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Joined: Sep 1999
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From: Exit 89 GSP,Lakewood,NJ The Land Of Mojo
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Re: 1st Post - Hot Vette (Sportryder)
Normal coolant temps are about 190-210 on the highway and about 210-230 sitting in traffic.
If your needle was pegged, then you have every right to be worried. The low coolant light I think would be a cause rather than an effect unless whoever owned it before you used only water rather than a mix.
If your needle was pegged, then you have every right to be worried. The low coolant light I think would be a cause rather than an effect unless whoever owned it before you used only water rather than a mix.
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Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 16,475
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From: Kingman AZ
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Cruise-In VIII
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Re: 1st Post - Hot Vette (Sportryder)
Just went to a C4 class put on by ex-factory expert and a mechanic that specializes in our cars. Our body style acts like a giant vacumn cleaner and a lot of crap gets sucked up by the radiator and condenser. One of the guys had his freshly purchased higher mileage 91 there as a demonstrator. The car had your exact problem. The instructors diagnosed it without even looking and then to prove a point crawled under the front and put a flashlight up there. Wouldn't you know it - packed with junk/dirt/leaves. This is the number one problem with overheating. After cleaning the stuff out do a thorough check and complete flush/refill. This should fix your problem. :yesnod: Good luck and welcome to the forum! :seeya
