Ok, in all my years I've never done this. I picked a hand lever gun and some Mobil 1 grease. I've searched the forums and the web but can't seem to find the actual application process.

Obviously the cleaning of the fittings so no contaimnation occurs but how many lever pumps? Two shots, four shots, until grease comes out the seal what?

I read about this process of determining grams per pump but I could not find info in the manuals that it takes "x" amount of grams for a relubrication of the ball studs.

Can someone tell me how to do this? Thanks.
:seeya


[Modified by 93JetJocky, 12:48 PM 9/20/2003]

 

Thanks... I also figured out this has to be done with the wheels off. Can't get access to the lower one's. Does this indicate a bad ball stud grease fitting (whatever they are called), on one even though the lube gun end fit over and down on the fitting didn't seem like it was taking grease just squirting out the fitting, on the other it went on the same and no grease came out so it seemed like it took the grease, it was hard as heck to pull back off too like the gun end stuck on there.

Almost forgot to ask, if they are bad can just the fitting be replaced?

I'll have to plan another time to take the wheels off to get access to them all. thanks again.

:chevy


[Modified by 93JetJocky, 1:32 PM 9/20/2003]

 

I suggest getting new zerk fittings. They are apparently plugged. When you grease the fittings keep one hand on the rubber boot until you feel it expand slightly. If you rupture the boots you have to replace the fittings. Not a small job.

 

Thanks for your help. I stopped by this afternoon at the local Chevy parts, but GM doesn't sell those fittings. So I'll have to look elsewhere. Is there a way to determine the size or are they standard? Any ideas on where to look for these fittings (Autozone?)?

Yep the driver's side front upper seem to take both pumps (shots) but the passenger side front upper just squirt outside it no matter how hard I pushed down. I didn't pull the wheels yet, so I think once I figure out where to get these guys, I'll pick up enough extras in case some of the others are plugged up too.

:)

 

any parts store has em,theyre called zerks.no idea who came up with that term but if you ask for zerks they will hand you one lol
the rounded part at the top is a standard size but the threaded part of it comes in many sizes,even metric. also many angles.
just take one out with a small wrench or pliers and take it in with you for an example.
also look close at the end of your hose on your new grease gun. the fitting on the very end of the hose comes off the hose,if you take it off the hose and clamp one end of it in a vise you can unscrew the end of the tip(unless you got a really cheap one).if you leave the end portion loose by a turn or so it will not stick on the zerk (or zert,some call it) so tight.as the tip wears in (and doesnt seal to the zerk good)you can tighten it more by hand.
hope i dont have you totally confused already :)
a good rule on u-joints is as soon as you hear the grease start popping (from forcing air out) quit pumping.
hes right about try not to over fill a booted joint like your ball joints but if you do its not the end of the world for it,just that it gives a place for contaminates to enter and prematurely wear it out.if you have one torn just double the service intervals or use common sense.i.e. if you run it in the rain a bunch just grease it back up.and consider a good marine type grease that will take the elements better.
most tie rod ends will have a rubber peice over the socket area but not sealed on both ends.these will often show grease when you grease em.
oh,i forgot the first step-open a tube of grease and smear it all over your hands and some on your sleeve.then you wont be irritated as much when you get it all over you when under the car :jester