C4 Service
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Fort Collins c
C4 Service
Sold my 64, and thru this forum bought a 94. Thanks, it's a beauty. I changed the oil and filter and now I am reading the shop manual on the coolant. One section says to remove the Knock plug, 1, and another section says to remove the left and right side Knock plugs. How many are there?
I am not sure I can handle the procedure to drain and refil the coolant but I am also very nervous about giving my new baby to a dealer.
Thoughts? :flag
I am not sure I can handle the procedure to drain and refil the coolant but I am also very nervous about giving my new baby to a dealer.
Thoughts? :flag
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,827
Likes: 212
From: Charlestown IN
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Re: C4 Service (vette64red)
I'm not sure how similar my '85 and your '94 are in this department. I removed the hose on my oil cooler and flushed everything. I have been told to remove the knock sensor for the same. At any rate, you might want to post this in the Tech/Performance section too. And welcome!! :seeya
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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Re: C4 Service (ductape)
I've been there. If you remove the knock sensors, be sure and torque them back in to spec. or you might get Code 43 Service Knock Sensor. I think the correct torque is 15 lbs. but double check your shop manual.
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 2,203
Likes: 63
From: Staten Island NY
Re: C4 Service (onedef92)
I took out the thermostat, left the drain plug open on the radiator and stuck my garden hose in the radiator. Started it and let it run for about 20 minutes with the heat on and the hose in the rad on low pressure.
Washed everything out and didnt touch the knock sensors.
Washed everything out and didnt touch the knock sensors.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 308
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
Re: C4 Service (onedef92)
I've been there. If you remove the knock sensors, be sure and torque them back in to spec. or you might get Code 43 Service Knock Sensor. I think the correct torque is 15 lbs. but double check your shop manual.
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
Drifting
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 1
From: Greensboro NC
Re: C4 Service (onedef92)
You don't have to blow the coolant out of the system. just drain it and remove the thermostat, insert a garden hose in to each of the flow paths in the thermostat housing (one to the left and one to the right) and backflush the whole thing for a fewe minutes until only clean water comes from the hose. Do the same with the radiator and refill. You will have replaced over 99% of teh coolant in the system this way with fresh coolant.
I've been there. If you remove the knock sensors, be sure and torque them back in to spec. or you might get Code 43 Service Knock Sensor. I think the correct torque is 15 lbs. but double check your shop manual.
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
Likes: 9
From: Fort Knox, KY
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Re: C4 Service (HapAFcop)
I've been there. If you remove the knock sensors, be sure and torque them back in to spec. or you might get Code 43 Service Knock Sensor. I think the correct torque is 15 lbs. but double check your shop manual.
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
I may be missing something here, but where does the coolant exit the system? :confused:
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
I may be missing something here, but where does the coolant exit the system? :confused:
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Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 96,443
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From: Fort Knox, KY
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Re: C4 Service (Alex D)
You don't have to blow the coolant out of the system. just drain it and remove the thermostat, insert a garden hose in to each of the flow paths in the thermostat housing (one to the left and one to the right) and backflush the whole thing for a fewe minutes until only clean water comes from the hose. Do the same with the radiator and refill. You will have replaced over 99% of teh coolant in the system this way with fresh coolant.
I've been there. If you remove the knock sensors, be sure and torque them back in to spec. or you might get Code 43 Service Knock Sensor. I think the correct torque is 15 lbs. but double check your shop manual.
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy
I've been there. If you remove the knock sensors, be sure and torque them back in to spec. or you might get Code 43 Service Knock Sensor. I think the correct torque is 15 lbs. but double check your shop manual.
Also, don't add any plumbing tape or thread compound to the sensors. The stock orange coating that comes on them is sufficient. You can use a dedicated knock sensor tool like Craftsman or a box ended wrench or a socket/breaker bar combo.
The rounded part of the sensor's actually sturdy enough to support a pair of locking vice grips if you encounter a stubborn one that fails to respond to standard tools.
Next time, I'm thinking about simply using a shop vac and BLOW the coolant out of the system. Warm the engine to operating temp to open the stat, then open the black coolant tank and place the vacuum nozzle in the inlet.
With the hose on the BLOWER side of the shop vac, you can use air pressure to force all the coolant out and not have to worry about lifting the car and wrenchinig those sensors out.
Be sure and open the bleed screws when you're done adding fresh coolant to burp air pockets out of it! Good luck. :thumbs: :chevy