Where can I locate pad replacement procedure on this site?

Thanks.

 

all your doing is pads?

easy...

remove the e-clip from the retaining pin on the lower part of the caliper, swing the caliper out of the way, use a BIG c-clamp or channel locks to compress the pistons (using an old brake pad), pop out the old pads.... pop in the new ones... clean up and grease the pin and off we go!

 

Not sure the maintenance manual is your best source for your year model.

Aside from that, its pretty easy and just replacing pads doesn't require opening the system up so bleeding is not necessary.

Note before you start, order a new set of upper guide pin bolts for the rear, one each side pre-coated with locktite. And a new set of pins and c-clips for the fronts. Manual says always replace them. Cost is under $10. from Superior.

Note also put two wheel bolts back on the wheel to keep it from coming off.


Drain about 2/3 of the fluid from the master cyclinder.

Fronts are removed by pulling the c-clip from the rear of the caliper which holds the pin in place. Pull the pin and tap/maneuver out the caliper. Use either a coat hanger or some other type of support to support the caliper when its loose. Since I just jacked mine up and gallon paint can works great. You don't want any stress on the brake fluid line.

Use a large C-clamp to compress the cylinder on the caliper. The displaced fluid returns to the master cylinder, so keep an eye on it. Pop out the old pads and use the c-clamp to press in the new pad. Outside pad has two springs that press into two holes in the caliper. That part is tricky to get it to seat evenly. Inside pads slip into place.
Remount and install new C Clips and pins. Caliper must have movement when its installed.


The rear pads are even easier. Remove the upper guide pin bolt on the inside facing toward the center of the car. Again use the c-clamp to compress the cylinder. Check your fluid levels. The pads just drop into two slots on the caliper. The caliper assembly itself does not come off on the rear like it does on the front. Reinstall the cylinder and tighten with a new bolt. The upper guide pin bolt torques to 35Nm or 26 lb ft.

Be sure to burnish the pads before you use them. Basically its 20 stops from 30mph. One after the other. By the time you get beyond 15, you'll start to smell them. Medium to hard braking.

Of course its always good to cycle the fluid, pad change does not require opening the lines so you shouldn't have to bleed them afterwards. Most people do perform reqular flushings so you might consider it at the same time. (I used Chevy cause they have nice equipment to flush and recycle the fluid, plus they cleaned my master cylinder reservoir of that black junk that builds on the walls. Also you need to be cautious about getting air into the prime pipe of the ASR, doing so requires a trip to the dealer to get it out.

Hope this helps.

:seeya


[Modified by 93JetJocky, 1:14 PM 10/13/2003]


[Modified by 93JetJocky, 1:15 PM 10/13/2003]

 

:iagree:
but I bought a caliper compressor tool for $8, nothing beats having the proper tool. http://www.toolsource.com/ost1/produ...J74FSAN1BT3GM9

 

:iagree: But I recommend buying a pack of "e" clips before you start, as its likely you'll lose/brake one.

 

I'm kind of curious, there are several reference to an "e" clip, is that another name for its part description of "CLIP-FR"? I suppose it implies they look more like an "E" than a "C"? I looked at the one's that came out, and they were exactly like the new one's, hmmmm looks like either I suppose.

Anyway not to be ****, its a clip. :)