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Okay should be a simple task, it was with my stock wires. I replaced them with MSD 8.5 wires, which have a nice snap-on grip. Well now I want to switch out the spark plugs but can't seem to get the wires to budge. I don't want to damage the wires themselves, but can't seem to get a good grip, too much smog stuff in the way. Is there something I am missing, I feel really stupid for having trouble getting these things off. Is there a trick to getting the latch to unlock some, or just need to pull harder? :crazy:
Make sure they twist before you pull on them. And try to resist temptation to pull on wire instead of the boot.
:iagree: Did you add any dielectric grease when you put them on? It really helps. I just replaced my plugs/wires while doing my intake manifold and it wasn't that bad at all.
Twist, wiggle, pull, Twist, wiggle, pull, Twist, wiggle, pull, they will eventually work loose and come off. You can get a tool from the local parts store that will grab the boot and let you pull it off.
Did you add any dielectric grease when you put them on? It really helps.
Yep I sure did, that is why I am surprised at there stubbornness. Guess I will just have to try it again when I have a bit more patience for it. And this is the easy part, getting the plugs out looks to be much trickier. Any tips other then a couple swivel joints on my ratchet?
Any tips other then a couple swivel joints on my ratchet?
Aside from pulling the engine out... :lol:
I just did a tune up on my 88 lastweekend and I couldn't find a swivel joint that would fit in there just the right way. So I ended up working the ratchet in there and took the front 2 plugs on the passenger side out 1 click at a time. What a pain, but it was worth it. I think GM did that on purpose just to mess with me. :D
All too ofen, I've done it the hilbilly way. I pull on the wire and yank, only to end up with a wire in my hand and a boot stuck to the plug. One of these days, I'll wisen up.
getting the plugs out looks to be much trickier. Any tips other then a couple swivel joints on my ratchet?
Remove the plastic cover peice behind the shock. That opens up the area to get a longer extension bar with a swivel on it. Much easier to reach 2 and 4 plug with the cover removed. The cover only has a half dozen or so bolts.
You need to remove the center section of the wheel wells and that will openthings up quite a bit moe (still a PITA but not as bad). Then just keep twisting more than pulling until there are nice and loose side to side then you should be able to just pull them out. The plugs aren't really that bad except for the back one on each side. Still that can be done from the top with some patience.
Its a PITA, i ended up having a corvette mechanic do it, it was only 300 for about 4-5 hours of work. I was with him the whole time and im glad i didnt do it myself.
All too ofen, I've done it the hilbilly way. I pull on the wire and yank, only to end up with a wire in my hand and a boot stuck to the plug. One of these days, I'll wisen up.
For a minute I thought you were from West Virginia. Wait, maybe you are, you spelled hillbilly wrong. :rofl:
Don't take it seriously, it's a joke man, it's a joke. :lolg: :lolg:
It is a good 4 solid hours of work but you get to know your engine well and i can think of better things to drop 3 bills on. Besides at least you will know it was done right and no shortcuts were taken. The more i work on these cars the more i see they really arent that bad. Yes, the first time of almost any job on these things is a beast but once you have done it once the second time is at least twice as quick. Other than electrical, a/c or MAJOR engine problems i don't see myself paying for any other type of work being donw on this car
Just a couple of thoughts:
When working in such tight quarters there is always the possibility of breaking something when applying force to your wrench. If you apply a light coat of anti-seize to the plug threads they should come out easier the next time. I like to use a torque wrench on plugs whenevr possible. Since anti-seize will reduce friction, use the minimum spec for torque. IE. if something calls for between 18 - 24 ft lbs, go with the 18.
I don't own a vette - YET. Do they typically run platinum plugs? At least that way you only have to change them every 50,000 miles or so.
Glen
St. Jude Donor '06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Re: Tips on removing plug wires.... (rsafier)
This is on my winter "things to do list". Good tips here! I'm wondering if it would be helpful to borrow wifey's hair dryer and try warming things up a bit? I see you live in Ohio and it might be gettin a little chilly there this time of the year. Good luck! :blueangel:
Re: Tips on removing plug wires.... (corvetteronw)
:iagree: with the posts above. Definatey remove the center part of the inner fender skirt right above the shock (5 bolts 10mm I think). For a little extra room you can also remove the wheel/tire, but I didn't. Also remove the AC compressor support bracket. There is a bolt on the compressor and a nut adjacent to the #4 plug. With these removed you can almost get a straight on shot to the #2 plug and the #4 is easier with the support removed. For #2 use a short extension, a swivel joint, and a long extension. Approach from the wheel well and go under the trans cooler line. Its almost (repeat almost) easy from there. GOOD LUCK :cheers:
You can get a tool from the local parts store that will grab the boot and let you pull it off.
Good luck
:yesnod: The right tool for the right job. I had the same problem with a set of wires I put on my pickem up. Bought the tool... popped em right off. :jester I also use a short stubby ratchet for the stubborn rear pass. side plug. :crazy:
I went in to change mine and got the passenger side done okay. I gave up on the driver's side. It might look different if the car was on a lift but life is just too short for some things.