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You have several factors at work there:
-cooler engine temps == more enrichment & spark advance
-cooler air temp == more O2
-colder tires & pavement == more wheel spin
The general rule is that you gain 1% for each 10deg F drop in temp. So compared with a 85 deg day you were building maybe 20chp more.
Come drive a car in AZ in the summer when it's 118 out and god-knows-how-hot the pavement is, and you'll see the extreme opposite of your performance "gain" today! :mad
Yes, like vettefast said: cold air has alot more oxygen. To elaborate further, cold air has alot more oxygen molecules jam packed within one cubic inch than warm air does. Warm air makes he molecules move around rapidly and space out from each other. Your engine burns oxygen molecules to attain horsepower in through your intake. What I do is I use an ice pack that u use for a stiff neck.(The ones u throw in the freezer and reuse). I put it in the bottom of the intake scoop beneath the K&N open lid. So it feels like morning jet takeoff in the afternoon. It fits perfectly too. I just take it out and throw it in the freezer at night and put it back in in the morning before I go driving. BTW have u ever wondered why drag racers at the track put huge bags of ice on their intakes before a run? Well now u know. :lurk:
Not only does cooler air pack more O2 per the same relative volume, but dry air is better than moist air. Low humidity means there is less of a percent of water in the air and since water doesn't burn, it is also why low humidity days a great too. Add to that a high barometric pressure and you have an excellent day, since bp really is a measure of how atmospheric pressure on our air, the higher it is, the more oxygen contained in the same relative volume of air.
This is why most major drag racing weather stations use temp., barometric pressure, and humidity in their calculation to determind adjusted altitude.
I had a dynograph somewhere that had a 30° temperature difference. SAE corrected the numbers were within 2 hp on each graph. But switching to the actual horsepower yielded a 17 hp difference. All measured at the wheels. I will see if I can dig it up and post it.
The downside is the traction, if your tires are cold, and you put the hammer down, you can spin like hell. So dont be taking corners too fast or youll be in a ditch.
What I do is I use an ice pack that u use for a stiff neck.(The ones u throw in the freezer and reuse). I put it in the bottom of the intake scoop beneath the K&N open lid. So it feels like morning jet takeoff in the afternoon. It fits perfectly too. I just take it out and throw it in the freezer at night and put it back in in the morning before I go driving.
compaired to the guys who were at 115 temps, the other day at like 15* outside.. thats 100* difference, and 10% better! woha, shoulda found a track that day.. and lots of tire warmup prior to launch. :crazy: :yesnod: :lol: :smash: :cool: :confused: :D
On our dyno day in NORVA back in December it was below freezing all day. The SAE correction factor for the readings was 0.94 due to the cold air. Back that out and my engine was making 445 crank HP that day from a stock bottom end 350.
That plus cold Goodyears is light em up and fishtail all you want.