Josh, if you want to build a car I have an idea. Look up the "Locost". It is a build from scratch Lotus 7. There is a book "Build your own car for 250 Pounds (or something). It is a Haynes book. You can build one for very little if you can scrounge and do ALL the work yourself. Many have built them for 3 or 4 grand, but a few have spent closer to $1,000. Plans are in the book.

 

Well, in all seriousness, i think that youll have a hard time finding a vette for the price you want, with all the good stuff working good. It can be done, so good luck. I guess if your set on having the 6speed, and like the older body style, then that 89 would be a good bet. Now your looking for a cheep, good condition 89. *me hands josh a large helping of luck*

As for books that list all the changes, ive heard that the Black Book does that. Though, it also might just be a production numbers book. Im sure someone in the know will chime in and say.

I donno anything about mags, so good luck with that too.

 

Just do youself a favor and go price (1 set of door panels), (1 set of seat covers), and (1 carpet kit). You can find yourself a vehicle to start with for the price of those items...Good Luck... :thumbs:

 

Flat rear on the 90-96?? I'm not sure what your talking about, those are the years that have the rounded rears??? Why buy a 96 to swap it with an 84-89, wouldn't that be stepping forward, but taking 10 steps back??

Sounds like you need to make some serious decisions. You've gone from a bad idea, to a worse idea... There's nothing wrong with the drivetrain in 89's, so if your happy with the body style, go for it...

And, if you want the BEST deal out there, look in the C4 for sale area here... These guys maintain their cars better then anyone out there, and they aren't trying to rip fellow forum members off!!!!

 

Also 84-90 have the same chisled body style, 91-96 have a rounded look to them. 90 Also has the later (cockpit style) interior.

 

the body style goes from 84-90 91-96. I think the only '90 that has the rounded end is a ZR1.

 

Josh, no offence, but you sound like a young guy with grandiose ideas. I know, been there...done that. So listen up...sage advice from an old hot rodder. #1: unless you have more tenacity than 99% of the guys I've known in my lifetime....you're gonna spend a ton of money and end up with parts to sell because it was so much work you lost interest. #2. Everybody here is giving you great advice about buying a used C4 and fixing it to your desires. #3. Mid America...Ecklers,,,Corvette Central...and right here on Corvette Forum will give you some idea of prices...it's gonna cost you a FORTUNE to build one from scratch (and you truly can't because of the frame). Here's the advice...buy a used C4, spend some bucks on it...take the $30,000 you saved and put it in a TRowe Price Mutual Fund...wait til you're 62 and retire wealthy.

Have fun my friend.

 

lots!!!

Engines:

L83 - Crossfire - 1984 only
L98 - TPI 1985-1991
LT1 - 1992 - 1996
LT4 - 1996
LT5 - 1990 - 1995 (ZR1 only)

The suspension was entirely reengineered for 1988. Brakes, settings... you name it. Nothing is interchangable.

Dash changed in 1990 (first year airbag)

Body changed in 1991.

Wheels changed just about every year.

 

Josh, my young friend....you have been given lots of GREAT advice here on this forum. It boils down to this:
If you want a C4 (whatevery body style you prefer) buy one in running condition. It's the only financially-sound way to get one.
If you MUST build your own kit car, get a proven kit like the FactoryFiveRacing Cobra replica.

Doubt if you'll have the money for both for about thirty years, but you can always dream (that's how most of us got our Corvettes; dreaming)

Larry
code5coupe
:seeya

 

I took out a loan to buy mine, discovered payments and repair costs don't go very well together. If you've got the money to make a payment + $100/ month average maintenance costs + impatience like me, go for it. If you've got the patience you're better off waitiong till you can pay cash and save the interest.

When choosing a year you have 5 basic engines to choose from

84 crossfire
They only used this engne for two years 82-84. That's because there was a better way to build an engine.

85-91 L98 a.k.a. Tuned port
In stock form this engine is 240-250 hp with great low end torque. It's built on a gen 1 small block so there a much bigger aftermarket. More parts to chose from, more possibilities, cheaper. If you're looking for hp/$ this is probebly the way to go. Early L98's used mass-airflow fuel injection. This will adapt better to most engine modifications, the exceptions being an engine that consumes more then 255 grams/second of air or a cam thats big enough to make air flow backwards through the sensor. For radical, high power'ed L98's you'll need a speed-density system and you'll need to get it reprogrammed when you get your engine built. If you want to do a big block it is possible but when you can get a 454 ci small block I'd have to wonder what the point is.

92-96 LT1 or LT4
LT1 came in cars with auto's, LT4's came in cars with sticks, generally. LT1=300hp, LT4=330hp I don't know precicly what the differences were. This engine is more powerful then the L98's but the torque band is at a higher RPM so it doesn't give the same punch off the line. If you watch an L98 and LT1 drag racing the L98 will jump out ahead at first but the LT1 will catch up and pass it by before the 1/8 mile mark. LT1/4 may be more expensive to modify, but maybe not, depending on what you want.

90-94?95 LT5
375hp ZR1 engine. You can't afford this and neither can I.

As far as transmissions go Auto's are generally better for drag racing, manuals are better for autocross or street racing. If you plan on a lot of power be aware the auto's have a lighter duty rear end that may need upgrading.

Major improvements to consider
ABS started in 86 (might want to check that, I think it's right)
traction control started in 92 and improves almost every year

Watch for option codes
Z51 or Z07 Stiffer suspensions.
FX3 Adjustable shocks (If the servos still work)
ZR1 Only way you'll be able to afford this is to find someone who doesn't know their vette is special (not likely)
B2K Same as above but even less likely.

Hope you find this helpful. Do you're self a favor, go to barns&noble and read every book they have on corvettes and small block chevys, then go to books-a-million and do the same thing. Then take a week to think about it all, come up with questions and ask them here. No use buying something only to find out one of the features you need came out a year after your model.

Oh yea, welcome abord. :cheers:


[Modified by rkessel, 2:23 PM 1/22/2004]

 

Forget NADA, the value of ZR1s are more than $6k difference! You might
find a $6k difference between a high mileage '90 ZR1 vs. low mileage '96 LT4.

 

In my opinion the ZR1's only make sense as colector's cars. Heads, valve trains, and intake are all unique to the LT5 engine so if you wear them out racing you're going to pay out the azz for replacement parts. If you want 375 hp you're better off building up an L98 or LT1/4. If you want a collectors car ZR1's are a good choice.

 

The differences include the engine, stiffer suspension, 11" rear wheels instead of 9.5", 4" wider rear bodywork to acomodate wider rear tires, rear end ratio, and a few others I can't remember right now. mostly it's the privilage of owning a rare car. If you like the idea of having a rare car ZR1's are great, otherwise you'll get more bang for your buck suping up a regular vette. And despite what NADA says, there's going to be more the $6K difference between a normal coupe and a ZR1 of the same year, milage, and condition.

I think it may have had better breaks too. Not sure on that one though.


[Modified by rkessel, 11:56 AM 1/23/2004]

 

If your into building a vette build a older one per say C1 or C2. I'm in the process of rebuilding a 67 from the ground up.