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Do those radiatior additives that claim to lower running temps 20 degrees really work ? My 92 vette runs cool enough in the summer with the air on 200/210 at extended idle. Without the air(both fans) on it goes to 230 after extended idle. I know this is normal but I dont like the higher idling temps during the summer. It gets very warm with high humidity here in Missouri during the summer. Thanks :reddevil :)
I just recently pulled my radiator and cleaned it, flushed the cooling system, added new fluid and a bottle of water wetter, and it runs a little cooler. I plan to get a 160 themostat and reprogram the fans sometime. I did that on my old vette and it would never get above 190. Hope this helps some. :)
I used an additive called 40 below. Was right around $23.00, also used distilled water only and 160 therm. Never goes past 190 even sitting in traffic. Worked for me.
Correct me if I'm wrong (newbie alert), but isn't running straight water a bad thing to do? Doesn't coolant help protect against corrosion as well as the whole cooling thing? I know I've heard a lot of hype with these Water Wetter type products, but do they protect against corrosion as well? And if so, is one little bottle in a rad good enough to replace a good 50/50 mix of coolant? Not sure it's something I need, as we don't tend to get that high of humidity around here in the summer, so as long as the fan kicks in to get SOME sort of airflow, I should be safe, but the question about corrosion remains.
Ryan, you hit the nail squarely on the head! Straight water will literally destroy a radiator, and water by itself has a low boiling point! Ask any old timer what his radiator looked like in the days before it became common practice to run a 50/50 blend of coolant. Rust for days! Now with the aluminum block/heads/radiator combos, straight water will turn the fluid black with corrosion residue. A proper mix of coolant will protect any engine and BTW, modern engines are designed to run at high temperatures. That is a fact of life. All coolant mixtures should be changed every two years to maintain its protective properties. A simple switch to turn on the fans (manual or one that grounds the ECM) earlier on very hot days and/or in heavy traffic is cheap, effective and trust me on this, it works! I don't waste money on all the stuff that makers of "snake oil" claim as beneficial to my car. The next time that you are in an auto parts store, take a moment to make note of all the additives available for your radiator, engine oil, transmission and fuel tank. It is there for a purpose; to make someone a profit and I just flat do not believe most of the maker's claims! :skep:
From: Minnesota in the summer, Las Vegas in the winter
Re: Radiator Additives (oldtimer)
This is what I like about the forum: lots of opinions and no one being disrespectful of those with whom they disagree. This is an issue I need to address this year. My coupe runs very hot at idle but fine at highway speeds. I pulled my radiator two summers ago and got lots of sand out of it ( it WAS a Southern car). I'm still not happy with the high temps at idle. I have a very good GM mechanic who is an independent now. I will likely go with his recommendations.
Water by itself will cool better that a 50/50 mix but water alone will damage the cooling system. Anti-freeze coolants in the proper ratio like 50/50 will protect against corrosion and the formation of rust.
I use distilled water in my 92 (service manual procedure) along with a good ethylele glycol (green) anti freeze. If the cooling system is clean, the thrrmostat is working properly, the water pump is in good shape, and there is no debris clogging the radiator fins, you should not have any cooling problems. I had heard somewhere that Water Wetter does not last the life of the coolant fill but is only effective for 6 months or so. GM has since discontinued the use of those cooling system pellets that were added to a coolant change. They were supposed to provide anti-corrosion protection and water pump lubrication but for whatever reason, GM issued a bulletin to discontinue their use.
Radiators can wear out after a number of years and lose the ability to cool properly. Eventually some of the tubes in the core will fill up with crud, the wall thickness of the tubes will shrink and lose the ability to transfer heat properly. New OEM units are much better than those units of say 30 years ago but still a radiator with 200K miles on it will not do as good a job as a new one.