Engine rear main leaking!
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Engine rear main leaking!
I have recently noticed that my rear main is seeping a little oil, I have been told that there's a retro kit to fix this problem, the car only has 62,000 and has never been abused. Last winter I replaced intake,valve cover gaskets etc. Cleaned the motor good!!!
used the correct GM gaskets & RTV as required. Now I know that the main is seeping but not bad!!
What's the best why of repair? pull the motor or drop the pan/crank/clutch
etc.
used the correct GM gaskets & RTV as required. Now I know that the main is seeping but not bad!!
What's the best why of repair? pull the motor or drop the pan/crank/clutch
etc.
Pro
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 515
Likes: 0
From: HAMILTON OH
Re: Engine rear main leaking! (BoysfromSyracuse)
It won't hurt to seep a little for awhile......but it's not that difficult to repair. I suggest getting a Haynes or Chiltons manual and doing the work yourself. Its inexpensive to do it yourself......but pricey to pay a pro. Dropping the exhaust is the hardest part. Good luck.
8th Gear
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles MO
Re: Engine rear main leaking! (BoysfromSyracuse)
I recently bought my first vette, a 1996. It was leaky oil from the intake which I repaired and then I noticed it was still dripping from the bell housing. The leak ended up being the oil filter adapter, but first appeared to be the rear main. You may want to check the oil filter adapter if this applies to your engine - good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
Re: Engine rear main leaking! (BoysfromSyracuse)
Since it's necessary to pull the tranny (and exhaust, etc) I had my rear seal replaced when she was in for an A4 rebuild.
I think yours has a continuous seal which can be replaced without dropping the crank. Get a GM shop manual for full instructions on doing the job if you turn wrenches; if not bring lots of $$ (I was quoted $500 at a local Chevy dealer to replace that $20 seal).
I think yours has a continuous seal which can be replaced without dropping the crank. Get a GM shop manual for full instructions on doing the job if you turn wrenches; if not bring lots of $$ (I was quoted $500 at a local Chevy dealer to replace that $20 seal).
Thread Starter
Cruising
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Re: Engine rear main leaking! (toondaddy)
Thank you for the input, I've got a friend of mine that works at a chevy garage and I'm going to see if I can order a 1985 repair manual, I can do the wrenching on the beast. again thanks to all who replied.!!!!!!! :flag
Team Owner
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 24,337
Likes: 25
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Re: Engine rear main leaking! (BoysfromSyracuse)
You have a 2-pc rear main.
Remove the starter and inspection plate, drop the pan, oil pump, and pull the rear main bearing cap, and there's the seal. Don't touch the crank journal with anything. It's a relatively simple but time consuming task, and it's always fun to drop the oil pan and take a peek in there. :yesnod:
Before you fire the engine back up, you'll want to prime the oil pump with a long screwdriver, or some have done it by cranking the engine over a couple times with the coil unplugged.
Rotate the 2-piece seal so the seams aren't inline with the block and main cap seams.
Also, make sure you get the main bearing cap seated, mine was pretty tricky to get back in there.
I'd suggest the Felpro 1-pc oil pan gasket also. :yesnod:
Remove the starter and inspection plate, drop the pan, oil pump, and pull the rear main bearing cap, and there's the seal. Don't touch the crank journal with anything. It's a relatively simple but time consuming task, and it's always fun to drop the oil pan and take a peek in there. :yesnod:
Before you fire the engine back up, you'll want to prime the oil pump with a long screwdriver, or some have done it by cranking the engine over a couple times with the coil unplugged.
Rotate the 2-piece seal so the seams aren't inline with the block and main cap seams.
Also, make sure you get the main bearing cap seated, mine was pretty tricky to get back in there.
I'd suggest the Felpro 1-pc oil pan gasket also. :yesnod:
