Correct, but it is still not a basic SBC either.

 

i bet we can agree there isn't enough aftermarket intakes to go around with any GM fuel injection setup :lol: :thumbs:

 

your both correct..
the 96 LT1 had a larger Intake than the 95 and was still called an Lt1.
the things that made an lt4 an Lt4 had very little to do with just its intake.
the 96 LT1 on the other hand kept the designation probably due to a lack of increase in hp but that's only because the engine could no longer benefit from a larger intake. the fact is, it was tested and was proven to offer no improvement what so ever. but in all fairness the 94 95 & 96 engins of the Lt1 did go through many refinements and is capable of much more than its first Gen brothers. so nobody's wrong & we understood your points.
:beatdeadhorse:


[Modified by bronx69, 5:36 PM 5/18/2004]

 

Here's Mine - Totally stock LT-1 A4, 110,000 miles. These two runs were with the original plugs and wires. I haven't dyno'd since the tune-up last year.



248 hp
278 tq

 

The SuperRam is still technically Tuned Port Injection. The "tuning" is just a little different. :D

 

My L98 would like to mess with you- flat torque curve with 400 ft-lbs at the wheels from 2500-5200rpm; peak of 505 ft-lbs. All achieved with 52mm TB, ported TPI plenum / base, SLP runners, and a couple other parts. :D :D :D

 

A few other parts huh. Nitrous or forced induction? Those are some nice numbers.

 

Looks like a paxton or ATI over there on the other side.

 

Yeah I can see it when I click on the larger image. Plus you click on the profile and see the 383.

 

hold up. torque is really not that much higher on the L98. they only got the 93 and up LT1 by 5 foot pounds mainly do to back pressure on the exhaust and port tuned injection. my question to you L98 guys is how much can your pistons handle before failure? 450HP is our lt1s limit and being that the LT1 engine boast about significant gains in power, durability, and reliability im very curious to know what must be done to get a reliable 500Hp L98.


[Modified by bronx69, 6:31 PM 5/18/2004]

 

I buy Scorp a virtual beer for having good eyes :cheers: I've attached my sig this time...

The point is any block / crank can provide bore and stroke; then you have unlimited head, intake, cam, etc choices. That's where the torque characterists are determined anyway. You can build a killer combo from many a starting point. If I was to do it again today, I'd probably start with something aluminum in the LS series....

It was that "I don't bother with L98s" comment; don't dismiss a car because of it's age- you never know what's under the hood. Many a C5 driver has made that mistake with me. ;)


[Modified by gcrouse, 11:00 AM 5/18/2004]

 

Pistons are the weak link in the LT1 short block, but there can be ways to make things work. There isn't so much a set in stone limit on upper end power, moreoever it's how you get there. For instance you might spin high RPM's to get your power or you might run really high cylinder pressures at lower RPM's. One engine may explode on a 100 shot of nitrous in stock form while another may make 400 at the wheels normally aspirated. There are just so many variables to consider.

Regardless of to block you'll want forged pistons if you go over a certain point. That point just happens to be a great unknown until you actually reach it. Thus it's better to build it safe the first time.

 

got yeah :chevy

 

Nate,

not necessarily. like Bronx said the weak point is not in the pistons it's actually in the heads.

you can build a strong N/A car with 450+ rwhp and 550+ rwtq. even with cast pistons. BUT why use cast if your building a motor for high(er) hp? it goes cast, forged, then aluminum for all out race applications and some street applications and aluminum is much softer and has a lower boiling point than cast or forged steel. this comes down to the instant hit of boost or juice compared to a mild gradual hit from a N/A setup like Bronx explained above.

what does it take to build a reliable 500 rwhp L98 car? truely i haven't seen one with a stock like TPI setup N/A. mostly mini rammed or with a SR setup. but with a mini rammed, SR, converted LT, or ski_down_it and corky's intake and a nice cam with a healthy .560+ lift 112 lope and around a 228 duration with a good set of heads, AFR 210 heads with 2.08 intake valve w/ a healthy port job and 1.6 RR's and a stroker kit and i'm sure it will hit 500 rwhp.

add juice and or a blower and it's on with any year make car out on the road :thumbs:


[Modified by Mad-Mic, 1:36 AM 5/19/2004]

 

Yes...Yes...Yes!!!!!
OK!
:flag

 

theres other factors that play into this. (by no means am i a mechanical engineer so i can only explain this in laymens terms. however i have been around racing and Big money racing all my life but thats another story if anyone is interested read my cardomain site in my sig :thumbs: )

on cast pistons you can run N/A, Boost, or Juice but no boost and juice. Forged you can run N/A, Boost, and or juice at the same time or separately but you can't run too high of both. Aluminum you can pretty much do anything since Top Fuel dragsters use aluminum pistons AND rods :thumbs:

compression:
on cast your better off running low compression especially if you boost. juice it really don't matter but to be safe 11:1 and lower compression. Aluminum. all out game.

timing:
cast you can't go too high at all and True Blue (race fuel in the 118 octane leaded range) this will kill your cat(s) and will burn a hole in a piston fast if ran ALOT. this is why anyone who knows this will tell you to mix a 50/50 mix if you run True Blue. you can however run 100 octane Unleaded with out a problem. with cast pistons you can't run alot of timing but with forged and aluminum as long as you run race fuel you can go pretty high.


with cast pistons if 1 of these is not tuned properly you can easily melt a piston especially in a Boosted or Juiced setup. each step up gives alittle more leway with the tune.

hope this helps more :cheers:

 

All I was trying to point out is that there isn't really a set limit to the HP you can run on cast pistons. There is no doubt that forged is the way to go on a built motor. I'm just saying that because one person roasts a piston on a 400 horse motor, that doesn't mean that you can't make 500 with the exact same pistons by going about it in a different manner.

As we all know there are tons of ways to make horsepower. You've got to look at the total picture rather than just saying well XXX is the limit for said part.

 

agreed and unfortunatly though alot of people don't look at the whole picture of and how a motor makes HP.

people have said i lie about my mods on my car because they got XY&Z parts which equals 1 billion dollars in mods and they can't run as fast as me :lol: when i posted a 13.26 time slip last oct with my current mod list except the long tube headers i was told it was a stroker, it was juiced, ect ect. i pulled a tenth quicker in 2000' more DA and i still have a few things left to do before i crack the motor open. :thumbs:

just wish when i went to school for automotive technology there was a Hot Rod U to goto. i wanted to learn engine management and engine theory so i could do the equations so i would know "Why" it does what it does and not just to know "Why" it does it.

oh well still learned alot and my uncle owned and drove a top alcohol dragster in div 1 and i learned most of the "Why" it does it with him.

Nate pics on my car domain site of his car if your interested page 5.

cya'll next week i'm beach bound :flag

 

Well, hopefully, since our cars are both 87's, maybe they were made close to each other, and maybe some of that "magic" that was put into yours, was put into mine :D

 

Tim,

No magic here bro. last year my average run was well above 14.4's :lol:

BTW just got back from the beach for Hot Rod Week! :thumbs: