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Can't figure it out. I've got two remotes, both worked when i bought the car about 8 months ago. Then one stopped working. Put that one away and used the other one. Then, that one stopped working. Changed batteries in both, both worked. Then yesterday it stopped working. Bought a new battery, nothing. Did the same on the other, nothing. Checked the fuse, fuse is good. Still nothing. Running out of ideas except bear down and buy a new set, which from Chevy will cost about 160 bucks a piece if i remember correctly. What do you guys think?
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
Re: PKE doesn't work........ (1nicec4)
I don't have my manual here at work, but it may be that you have to re-program the PKE's after changing the batteries. Wouldn't surprise me and its easy enough to do...
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Re: PKE doesn't work........ (1nicec4)
There is a section about re-training the car to work with the PKE. If you cant find it, let me know and I can type out the instructions that came with my spare.
Just a suggestion.
The PKE can be turned off by holding the door button down for longer than 2 seconds. Could you have disabled it by mistake??
To check, turn on the ignition. If the PKE light on the info center lights up for 2 seconds, its enabled. If no light , then its turned off. To turn back on take key out of ignition, and hold door key for 2 seconds, you should hear the locks recycle and you are now enabled.
[QUOTE]Just a suggestion.
The PKE can be turned off by holding the door button down for longer than 2 seconds. Could you have disabled it by mistake??
To check, turn on the ignition. If the PKE light on the info center lights up for 2 seconds, its enabled. If no light , then its turned off. To turn back on take key out of ignition, and hold door key for 2 seconds, you should hear the locks recycle and you are now enabled.
I tried that, nothing happens with both remotes. The PKE light still flashes when the car is turned on. I tried reprogramming them just now and nothing.
I turned on the ignition. Pushed the TRIP/ODO button twice, then held the FUEL INFO button for five seconds or so until the PKE light started flashing. I then brought the remote into range and the light kept blinking. I then went and grabbed the other remote and it was still flashing. So it looks like i'm running out of luck on this one.
The only thing I can think of is to try and program it with a working PKE FOB from someone elses car. This will prove that its the fob and not the PKE unit in the car..
The only thing I can think of is to try and program it with a working PKE FOB from someone elses car. This will prove that its the fob and not the PKE unit in the car..
That's a good idea. If anyone in my area can help me out i'd really appreciate it.
The reason it continues to flash is that it recognizes those two transmitter frequencies. In other words they are still programmed. It stores up to three transmitter freqs. Make sure it isn't taking more than two minutes to bring them into range, (I know sounds silly) it self cancels program mode after 2 minutes.
I don't recall if you said the buttons work or did not, or if this is related just to lock/unlock.
Does the hatch button work? Does the door button work?
Verify again that you do have it in passive mode. When you test the door button, driver door open, key out, hold door button down and cycle the locks. Retest the passive mode (out of range in range).
The reason it continues to flash is that it recognizes those two transmitter frequencies. In other words they are still programmed. It stores up to three transmitter freqs. Make sure it isn't taking more than two minutes to bring them into range, (I know sounds silly) it self cancels program mode after 2 minutes.
I don't recall if you said the buttons work or did not, or if this is related just to lock/unlock.
Does the hatch button work? Does the door button work?
Verify again that you do have it in passive mode. When you test the door button, driver door open, key out, hold door button down and cycle the locks. Retest the passive mode (out of range in range).
Let us know results.
The whole shabang was working. And most of it still does. The door locks work, back hatch works, the security system still works, just the remotes don't. I can hold the buttons, walk in and out of range. Nothing happens. It's got to be either the remotes or the radio receiver for the remotes. Cause I can't figure out what else it could be. I've replaced the batteries twice. Still no difference. The fuse is good also. I switched the 5 amp fuse with one for the mirrors and it's fine. I'm at the end of my rope on this one for now. Unless you guys have any other ideas.
Well walking in and out of range holding down the buttons is not a function by design. Its a press to turn on button and only works within range.
The important thing is part of the troubleshooting is isolated. The buttons work.
You said the door button works, ok with your driver door open, key out, and you hold the button down for longer than 2 seconds does the locks cycle (if at all possible start with the pax door locked and driver's door unlocked easier to tell they cycled)?
If they do cycle then close the doors and walk out of range, the condition is still not locking correct?
If its not responding, try shaking the transmitter good to ensure the motion sensor is activating. Still the same?
With the key in and in the Run position both doors closed, is the Door Ajar light on?
If no we need to check some things by jumpering the plug. I'll wait to hear back before going into this.
If the DA light is on, then you need to investigate for a faulty door ajar switch or circuit condition.
One other thing, do you have any electronic mods, 3rd party stereo etc.?
So when i hold the door button down nothing happens. When i hold the rear hatch button down, again nothing happens. But if i lock the doors with the key or the switch inside they work, the locks that is. If i go inside the center console or the side of the driver door, the hatch will open. But not if i use the remote. So everything works but the remotes. When i hold the door button the locks don't cycle. Nothing happens.
Sorry I misunderstood, I though the key fob transmitter buttons were working.
If when inside both doors closed and the key to Run, Is there a Door Ajar lamp lit?
If no then it gets hairy but we need to read the codes while shaking the transmitter. Put a jumper from pins H to A in the DLC, shake transmitter. What are the codes? They will change as the signals change. I can list them later need to run get dinner.
If the Door Ajar light is lit, then you'll need to look at a fault in the Door Ajar circuitry.
Sorry I misunderstood, I though the key fob transmitter buttons were working.
If when inside both doors closed and the key to Run, Is there a Door Ajar lamp lit?
If no then it gets hairy but we need to read the codes while shaking the transmitter. Put a jumper from pins H to A in the DLC, shake transmitter. What are the codes? They will change as the signals change. I can list them later need to run get dinner.
If the Door Ajar light is lit, then you'll need to look at a fault in the Door Ajar circuitry.
When the door is shut, there is no light on. Everything else works as it should. The car is a 96 with 40,600 miles just about. I love my car. And one of the coolest features is the PKE. Cause when i'd walk to it, it would open. When you walked away, it would lock. How cool is that!!! It craps me out that i have to use the key. I still just walk right up to it and try to open it anyway. I can have my mechanic check out the remotes for me tommorrow i hope. Thanks for all your help.
I know what you mean that is a very kewl feature. How many cars out there know their owners?
Basically your interested in the codes read while doing the shake test.
No codes: check for open ckt 1398, if there is no open circuit replace receiver, if there is repair circuit open (loose wires ground etc).
12: replace receiver
13: replace trasmitter battery; if still a 13 then check antennas in doors and cargo, if antennas ok replace tramsmitter. If they aren't repair/replace antenna.
14: means transmitter is not programmed.
15: drivers door key switch condition
That should give you an idea of the diagnostics and what if anything you need to replace.
I'm supicious that since with new batteries neither FOB works buttons nor passive mode, you either have a short somewhere, a faulty receiver, or a fault in the antenna.
Good luck hope you get it fixed and back to normal. :flag
So I had my mechanic look at it yesterday. He tested the remotes and they seemed to be fine. He tested the batteries and they were good. So he plugged in his diagnostic machine, and was starting to go thru the steps to track down the problem, and the "body computer," as he reffered to it, just stopped communicating. And then after that the car wouldn't start. He then waited a couple minutes and the car fired right up. He said he needs more time to figure it out because it was closing time and i needed my car. Everything else works on the car. So at this piont i'll just leave it into his hands and hopes it's something small and inexpensive to fix.
I think I have a possible solution to your problem based on what you just described.
Go out and remove the Negative battery cable. If you have wire brush clean up the connection. Reconnect the negative cable and torque to 15Nm (11 Ft Lbs).
Preferably, remove the fender (couple screws down the fender well and two on top, there is a slot at the bottom for an open ended wrench to loosen only that nut). Remove the fender. Remove both negative then positive, loosen the battery hold down (requires a few extensions on your rachet), pull the battery out. Get a box of baking soda and sprinkle it all over, after it stops bubbling rinse it off good. Take a wire brush and freshen up the post. Then go to the positive cable and look under the rubber covering to make sure there is no acid corrsion, if so repeat baking soda and rinse (you may have to pry the rubber covering off a little with a screwdriver to get the baking soda in there). Probably best to do this outside because if the battery area is messy you'll want to clean it up before reinstalling the battery and its easier to rinse it outside. Any way re-install the battery, torque both connectors to 15 NM (11 Ft Lbs). Torque is important for the proper ground and so you don't over stress them.
Re-install the fender.
I wouldn't be surprised if your problems go away. Remember back I mentioned about a possible bad circuit well a bad ground would show up the same. WIth the loss of comm with the ECM and the fact it wouldn't turn over points to a marginal ground at the battery.
Won't cost you but a hours time and a box of backing soda.
Faulty grounds will cause all kinds of problems that seem unrelated.
Hi all when i purchased my car which i,ve wanted forever i got no key fobs so i purchased a new one but apparently the system is turned off cause it dont show when the key is turned on and the fuse is good i need to know how to reactivate it i seen the post but was unclear about holding the door button are you refering to the fob or handle i,m new to this need help thanks
Last edited by allaboutcars; Jul 15, 2004 at 03:52 PM.
If you have a coupe it will be the button on the right. Have you programmed the new fob??
When you hold down the door button it will take a few seconds for the locks to cycle. You will see & hear them cycle. If they cycle then insert the key in the ignition & turn to run, don't start & the PKE shud show in the lower left corner of the DIC, or you can walk away & see if the locks-lock & the horn sounds.