My a/c controls are acting up and I have my Vette in for a few little service items and was thinking about asking my mechanic to remove the controls and check out the electrical contacts and "clean them up" some if they look like the contacts may be an issue. I've heard that's a common fix for the problem I'm having.

HERE IS MY QUESTION: Are the controls fairly easy to remove and reinstall? My mechanic is not a Corvette expert. He's a couple steps above a shadetree fella. If it's pretty straightforward I'll trust him with it. Otherwise I'll wait until I have time myself.

 

Did that with my 90 and didn't fix my prob. My problem ended up being the AC relay mounted next to upshift relay under hood on passenger fender well near battery and brake fluid resevoirs. On mine the AC relay was the one closest to battery. I also had a problem with my blower resistor mounted on heater/evaporator core. It caused a weak blow condition. But in my quest I did remove controller.

Now, back to your question, It's not that bad, start by opening console and remove screws that hold back of shift plate then the rest, one by ashtray and by cig lighter then lift plate up just enough (dont remove)and begin to remove screws on trim plate around radio and AC control.If memory serves me I think you have to lift section of dash up a tad to get to some. Once that trim plate is out of way you just remove the screws holding the AC controller in and pull it forward a bit. here's the worst part, there's a cable that controls flapper at heater that is held by a verical screw and clip that hold cable sleeve that is a pain to get hands and tool at but can be done with a little detremination. I did it with my smallest craftsman ratchet and socket and a telescopic magnet on the side to assure no droped socket and screw and clip. After careful removal of this you just tilt it in a way as to get at lil clip holding cable end loop over control arm. Remove clip and lift cable loop off. Then you slide Controller forward and unplug wiring harnesses. Thats about it. It takes some skill and patience but it's not that bad.
Incidently, We were talking a manual controller weren't we?? Hope so, Because thats what I am reffering to. Guess I should've asked that first. Oh well, too late..if not, maybe this will help someone else. Good luck,
Dave

 

No, actually it's not the manual controller. It's the automatic one. Is there a big difference? I wouldn't think so. Thanks anyway.

 

Well, maybe not, except for the hard part. I'm not positive, but I think the heater flap is contolled by vacuume on the automatic controller. Not at all sure how big of a can of worms that may be, but it may turn out to be easier, because that was the worst part. The rest should be the same. Maybe someone with the auto will chime in.

 

Thanks, I appreciate your help.

 

I had a similar problem. Started to find the cause by hot wiring the motor wire at back (towards car front) end of of motor and found it was good. Next, checked fuses on passenger side by door...all OK. Then removed the plugs for the AC controller on the near motor side of box where blower fan mounts. One of the 4 connectors looked bad like it had been arcing and heated to hi temp. By-passed that section of the wire and made splice so I could jump it temporarily and still have the other 3 wires connected. Then tested the AC, all speeds/temps and heater settings. All worked fine. Spliced a new connector/pigtail making sure to use same size connector as it was (a special GM computer connector) sealed the splice with heat shrink sleeve and put black silicon sealant around connector hole where I fed the new splice wire thru. Replaced the factory wire wrap and no one will ever know it was touched. Cost about 3 bucks and 4 hours time. Probably saved parting with a couple hundred $ at a dealer who I'm sure would also have replaced the control unit (a mini solid state computer?) at a cost of $200 to $300?. Good luck with yours...hope its solution is as simple as mine, Bill

 

Thanks.