I am contemplating a spark plug replacement on my 92 that has aluminum heads. The plugs have been in for 5+ years ... am I going to be SOL (Sorta Outta Luck) when I try to remove them.

Advice Please.

Thanks
Brian

 

If they were installed with antisieze(as they should) it wont be a problem.

 

Brian, a short socket like this can make getting to the plugs easier. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...sPageName=WDVW I'm going to pick one up also.

 

i changed mine at about 30K mi this winter, at this point the plugs were probably 12 years old!

i had a worse time loosening the plug boots off of the plugs, and getting a socket on the plug itself than the plug being stuck in the head.

there were a lot of posts in the archives on LT1 plug changes, but don't know if they are accessible anymore.

let's see if i can highlight some pointers:
- jack up front of car, remove wheels
- remove plastic splash panels for better accessibility
- long ratchet extension and U-joint are essential
- on driver's side, loosen the ASR unit (don't have to remove)
- when installing new plugs, put a THIN coating of antisieze on threads
- coat a little dielectric grease on the inside of the boots before putting them back on
- have a six pack nearby - it might take a while the first time

good luck

 

These help a whole lot
http://www.madvet.com/-/shop?frame=1.652
Although I see they are temporarily out right now. Maybe try ecklers.

 

Just did my 94 (that had factory plugs- 10 yrs) anyway, I had no problems that I didn't cause myself! but- thats typical!!

Make sure you put anti-seize back on....as well as that lube that goes in the plug wire boot...will make it nice and easy(ish) in the future...which I hope I don't need to do in MANY years...LT1 plug\wire changes are a PITA!

 

Follow the above steps and you will be ok.

 

The OEM plugs were still in my 92 last year when I replaced them and they came right out with no issues. The engine has to be cold when you remove the old plugs and install the new plugs. If the motor is hot, you risk stripping the threads in the heads.

Be careful to not tighten the new plugs too tight. The torque spec is 11 ft.-lbs. for the LT1. As mentioned, a slight coating of some anti-sieze to the threads on the plugs and insert them by hand and turn a couple of times to insure the threads have seated properly before tightening down.

The number 6 and 8 plugs are a beotch to do but with a little work, you can get them swapped. Get a plug socket with a hex end on it; you can use a combination wrench to loosen the plugs. A socket and u-joint is next to impossible to use for the #8 plug.

When you remove the plug wire from the plug, be sure to twist the wire boot about a 1/4 turn and then pull on the boot, not the wire.

Definately remove the center plastic fenderwell panel and the rear panel. With these gone, the front 2 plugs on both sides are almost a straight shot with a long extension. Beer does help!!

 

Anti-seize on the plug threads is critical as every time you remove the steel spark plugs from the aluminum heads it takes some of the aluminum with it. Also, there is a ring of carbon on the end of the old plugs that will take some aluminum with it too. Over time, the threaded spark plug hole will deteriorate and one day your spark plugs will blow out.

Ask me how I know.

 

Thanks for the replys, advice and help.

I was able to get the #3 plug out without any problem, which is probably the same plug I pulled out 5 years ago when I bought the car. I don't need to replace them right now so I'll continue to enjoy the car and make this a winter project.

Thanks Again!!
Brian

 

Hmm. Only took me 9 minutes to remove all the plugs on my '85.

 

So to speak. JUST replaced the plugs and wires on my 92 in conjuction with the Opti, waterpump etc..etc...

I sent off for the Sidewinder close quarters ratchet...nice gadget but in my honest opinion, not necessary. Agreed the #6 and 8 are the worst, but very attainable with an extended handle, flex head ratchet, and most important, a stubby extension, not the 3 inch, the stubby. All in all I used the stubby and the 3 inch with the extended and standard ratchet. Did not remove either of the shields or jack up the car either, didnt find that necessary. Did remove the ASI unit, ok, unbolted it, disconnected the hoses and laid it off to the side...and agreed, use the anti-sieze! I SWEAR they were the original plugs in my 120K Vette, and they still had the Anti-sieze on them and came out with no worries.

Now the replacing the wires....

If in NEVER have to do that again, it will be too soon!

G-Luck