Help on Service Codes for My 93
11-10-2004, 06:43 PM
#41
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Okay-Iwas determined today to get this thing resloved. I got simple green, and cleaned the sensors. I checked all the connections, and checked the connections behind the drivers seat. I checked all the connections on the shock and actuator. the shock itself looked okay, and the spindle, did not spin freely.
I cleared all the codes on the speedo, and grounded the SRC (a and c with jumper) 3 times.
Result: Nothing-same codes. Now, i am getting a 23 code on the SRC blinking, in addition to the 14.
I am losing my mind. Help!!!!!
I cleared all the codes on the speedo, and grounded the SRC (a and c with jumper) 3 times.
Result: Nothing-same codes. Now, i am getting a 23 code on the SRC blinking, in addition to the 14.
I am losing my mind. Help!!!!!
11-10-2004, 07:59 PM
#42
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2003
Location: Lake Mary Florida
Posts: 13,421
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I feel helpless at this point and as well as your pain.
The 23 is not a big issue, you will get it if you cycle the ignition 3 times without driving the vehicle. The 23 means loss of vehicle speed signal.
Ok so you done all the basics as far as ensuring connections, cleaning, and have cleared the codes.
But the three annunciations still reappear along with a 14 code. Which is still point to that rt front time out.
Run this process:
(Test) 1.
- Ignition Off
- Disconnect suspect actuator from shock absorber by removing the clip on the shock.
- Ignition On while observing actuator motor
Does the actuator adjustment motor grear turn momentarily?
Yes do 2, No do 3.
(Test) 2. Yes
- Disconnect suspect actuator connector.
- Ignition On
- Using a DVM set to DC, measure voltage between the following terminals of the connector (harness side connector).
E to Ground
E to A
D to A
Was the voltage meansured in each case approximately 5 volts?
Yes do 4a. No do 4b.
(Test) 3. No
- Disconnect suspect actuator connector and connect a test light between terminals B and C (Harness side)
- Cycle the ignition switch from Off to On while observing the test light.
Is the light On?
Yes do 5a, No do 5b
(Test) 4a Yes
- Attempt to turn the damping adjustment motor control shaft at the top of the shock absorber with your fingers. Does the shaft turn easily with some friction?
Yes do 6a, No do 6b.
(Test) 4b No
- Check the suspect terminal for an open wire between the atuagor connector and the selective ride control SRC module. Check for clean tight connections. If Ok, then replace the SRC module.
5a Yes
- Replace faulty acutator.
5b No
- Check for an open or short to ground in both motor control wires (from terminals B and C). If both are ok, replace SRC module.
6a Yes
- Check that actuator connector terminals are clean and tight. If ok, replace suspect actuator.
6b No
- Replace the shock absorber.
NOTES
Test 1: This test will determine if the actuator motor moves to the fail-safe position under system initialization.
Test 2: If the actuator motor moved under system initialization, the position feed back circuit is suspect. This test will determine if there is approximately 5 volts present on the position feedback circuit.
Test 3: If the actuator motor did not move under system initialization, this test will determine if the actuator is receiving voltage from teh SRC module. If no voltage is present, the circuit between the actuator and the SRC module or the SRC module is suspect. If voltage is present, the actuator is faulty.
Test 4: This test will determine if there is physical damage to the shock absorber that is not allowing the adjustment shaft to turn or turn freely.
Let us know the results
The 23 is not a big issue, you will get it if you cycle the ignition 3 times without driving the vehicle. The 23 means loss of vehicle speed signal.
Ok so you done all the basics as far as ensuring connections, cleaning, and have cleared the codes.
But the three annunciations still reappear along with a 14 code. Which is still point to that rt front time out.
Run this process:
(Test) 1.
- Ignition Off
- Disconnect suspect actuator from shock absorber by removing the clip on the shock.
- Ignition On while observing actuator motor
Does the actuator adjustment motor grear turn momentarily?
Yes do 2, No do 3.
(Test) 2. Yes
- Disconnect suspect actuator connector.
- Ignition On
- Using a DVM set to DC, measure voltage between the following terminals of the connector (harness side connector).
E to Ground
E to A
D to A
Was the voltage meansured in each case approximately 5 volts?
Yes do 4a. No do 4b.
(Test) 3. No
- Disconnect suspect actuator connector and connect a test light between terminals B and C (Harness side)
- Cycle the ignition switch from Off to On while observing the test light.
Is the light On?
Yes do 5a, No do 5b
(Test) 4a Yes
- Attempt to turn the damping adjustment motor control shaft at the top of the shock absorber with your fingers. Does the shaft turn easily with some friction?
Yes do 6a, No do 6b.
(Test) 4b No
- Check the suspect terminal for an open wire between the atuagor connector and the selective ride control SRC module. Check for clean tight connections. If Ok, then replace the SRC module.
5a Yes
- Replace faulty acutator.
5b No
- Check for an open or short to ground in both motor control wires (from terminals B and C). If both are ok, replace SRC module.
6a Yes
- Check that actuator connector terminals are clean and tight. If ok, replace suspect actuator.
6b No
- Replace the shock absorber.
NOTES
Test 1: This test will determine if the actuator motor moves to the fail-safe position under system initialization.
Test 2: If the actuator motor moved under system initialization, the position feed back circuit is suspect. This test will determine if there is approximately 5 volts present on the position feedback circuit.
Test 3: If the actuator motor did not move under system initialization, this test will determine if the actuator is receiving voltage from teh SRC module. If no voltage is present, the circuit between the actuator and the SRC module or the SRC module is suspect. If voltage is present, the actuator is faulty.
Test 4: This test will determine if there is physical damage to the shock absorber that is not allowing the adjustment shaft to turn or turn freely.
Let us know the results
11-10-2004, 09:19 PM
#43
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I guess I need to buy a DVM meter.
Question: Someone PM's me and said to pull the acutator off the shock, and switch with the other one. If it is a bad acutator, it will throw a code on the other side.
do you think this is a good idea? Are they universal?
Also, if I find out the problem is the Actuator, if I replace, will that clear the asr/abs lights too?
Question: Someone PM's me and said to pull the acutator off the shock, and switch with the other one. If it is a bad acutator, it will throw a code on the other side.
do you think this is a good idea? Are they universal?
Also, if I find out the problem is the Actuator, if I replace, will that clear the asr/abs lights too?
11-10-2004, 09:46 PM
#44
Race Director
Member Since: Aug 2003
Location: Lake Mary Florida
Posts: 13,421
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Yes on the DVM and if you don't have a test light might as well pick one of those up too. There are numerous test on this vehicle that the diagnostics call for a test light.
That sounds logical however, just to ensure I would give Chris 1-800-728-8267 a call at Superior Chevrolet (if you've never dealt or met him, tell him I said hey and what your attempting to do - resolve a DTC for SRC.) Ask him to check the part for the front actuators to see if they are interchangable. If so then I would consider it if that is the route you wish to take. (If you haven't bought from Chris before you may wish to inquire as to the price while you have him on the phone. Let him know your a forum member. I buy nearly all my OEM GM parts from him. His prices will be real close to GMPartsDirect without the processing charge. And he's just a phone call away when help is needed.)
I would caution you on that though. Reason: the procedures to remove and install the actuator stipulate to ensure to use the position noted during removal. Requires 8.0mm (0.315 in) minimum between actuator and panel assembly. It sounds like when removing one, you are noting the position of the actuator leads and installing it similar. I would think that would apply if you were to swap them.
When installing actuator, ensure the retaining clip is properly seated on cup assembly retainer. The ends of actuator retaining clip should protrude outward from cub assembly retainer. Also do not force actuator onto retainer. Very little effort should be required to seat actuator. Check for proper seating wih a push/pull motion.
I would assume they will clear if that is the faulty component, and you must clear them after repair. The test procedures I mentioned previously should isolate the fault.
This should help too. Click the links and print these.
http://home.cfl.rr.com/laniplace/ima..._schematic.jpg
This flow chart is part of the procedures I typed previously.
http://home.cfl.rr.com/laniplace/ima..._flowchart.jpg
Lani
That sounds logical however, just to ensure I would give Chris 1-800-728-8267 a call at Superior Chevrolet (if you've never dealt or met him, tell him I said hey and what your attempting to do - resolve a DTC for SRC.) Ask him to check the part for the front actuators to see if they are interchangable. If so then I would consider it if that is the route you wish to take. (If you haven't bought from Chris before you may wish to inquire as to the price while you have him on the phone. Let him know your a forum member. I buy nearly all my OEM GM parts from him. His prices will be real close to GMPartsDirect without the processing charge. And he's just a phone call away when help is needed.)
I would caution you on that though. Reason: the procedures to remove and install the actuator stipulate to ensure to use the position noted during removal. Requires 8.0mm (0.315 in) minimum between actuator and panel assembly. It sounds like when removing one, you are noting the position of the actuator leads and installing it similar. I would think that would apply if you were to swap them.
When installing actuator, ensure the retaining clip is properly seated on cup assembly retainer. The ends of actuator retaining clip should protrude outward from cub assembly retainer. Also do not force actuator onto retainer. Very little effort should be required to seat actuator. Check for proper seating wih a push/pull motion.
I would assume they will clear if that is the faulty component, and you must clear them after repair. The test procedures I mentioned previously should isolate the fault.
This should help too. Click the links and print these.
http://home.cfl.rr.com/laniplace/ima..._schematic.jpg
This flow chart is part of the procedures I typed previously.
http://home.cfl.rr.com/laniplace/ima..._flowchart.jpg
Lani
Last edited by 93JetJocky; 11-10-2004 at 10:05 PM.
11-10-2004, 10:50 PM
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Ut-Oh! This afternoon, I removed the actuator from the shock, and twisted the **** to see if it was broken or not. I then put the actuator back on, and the clip in place. does this mean it might not be in proper position now? I never even thought of that 
11-11-2004, 12:02 AM
#47
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks that will help. It seems to be a pretty easy remove of the actuator. My concern is the position of the **** on top of the shock. I want to find out the best way to calibrate when swapping them.
11-11-2004, 09:40 PM
#48
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Okay-Now I am completely at a loss. I had a few minutes, so I swapped the front actuators, and absoultely nothing changed? Still had the same H23 code that I code not clear, and still the same 14 code on the SRC (that I could not clear).
I am going insane with this. Any other ideas out there?
I am going insane with this. Any other ideas out there?
