DEX-cool experiences?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
DEX-cool experiences?
anyone know anything about this orange sludge? my gf's camaro has this crap in it and i just want to flush it out and replace it with the good green stuff 
any really good flushing techniques to get the nasty stuff outta the system?? TIA
any really good flushing techniques to get the nasty stuff outta the system?? TIA
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
nope.
all I have read on the subject is that flushing won't be enough.
The problem is that the Dexcool bonds and penetrates the rubber hoses, leaving enough behind to really gum up the works.
If it's sludged, then strangle whomever installed the crap. They should know better.
For the most part, the only thing I know that will remove Dexcool is a complete engine teardown... sorry... all new hoses, flush out the rad and heater cores.
It's a real f'n mess.
all I have read on the subject is that flushing won't be enough.
The problem is that the Dexcool bonds and penetrates the rubber hoses, leaving enough behind to really gum up the works.
If it's sludged, then strangle whomever installed the crap. They should know better.
For the most part, the only thing I know that will remove Dexcool is a complete engine teardown... sorry... all new hoses, flush out the rad and heater cores.
It's a real f'n mess.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,613
Likes: 0
From: Orlando FL
i was afraid of that...i opened the overflow and the dipstick that they have attached looked like it was used for a colon inspection on someone who ate nothing but Hooters wings for 3 weeks. but 2 months earlier that wasn't the case...if it hasn't fully sludgified the rad and rest of system, can it just be flushed over and over? or does even good dexcool bond to everything? this is a weekend project that i am not looking forward to.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 40,156
Likes: 45
From: San Pedro CA
lemme put it this way... you have nothing to lose... and everything to gain.
What I would do is this: replace all the hoses... but first, flush the engine out with water, lotsa water, then, use a good radiator flush.... remove the t-stat, back flush it, remove the heater control, flush it some more.
then, drain the block, drain the heater, run some water through it all again.
replace the hoses...add water...
then run it for a while with just distilled water. no coolant. let the water get good and hot, hell, add some flush at the same time!
let it get good and hot and burn off whatever else may be in there... then drain again, completely.
refill. your in orlando, I would go with 70% water/30% coolant. IT will run cooler for it and will still protect from any freezing you will have down there and, if you use distilled, it won't corrode anyway.
What I would do is this: replace all the hoses... but first, flush the engine out with water, lotsa water, then, use a good radiator flush.... remove the t-stat, back flush it, remove the heater control, flush it some more.
then, drain the block, drain the heater, run some water through it all again.
replace the hoses...add water...
then run it for a while with just distilled water. no coolant. let the water get good and hot, hell, add some flush at the same time!
let it get good and hot and burn off whatever else may be in there... then drain again, completely.
refill. your in orlando, I would go with 70% water/30% coolant. IT will run cooler for it and will still protect from any freezing you will have down there and, if you use distilled, it won't corrode anyway.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,397
Likes: 0
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by bogus
lemme put it this way... you have nothing to lose... and everything to gain.
What I would do is this: replace all the hoses... but first, flush the engine out with water, lotsa water, then, use a good radiator flush.... remove the t-stat, back flush it, remove the heater control, flush it some more.
then, drain the block, drain the heater, run some water through it all again.
replace the hoses...add water...
then run it for a while with just distilled water. no coolant. let the water get good and hot, hell, add some flush at the same time!
let it get good and hot and burn off whatever else may be in there... then drain again, completely.
refill. your in orlando, I would go with 70% water/30% coolant. IT will run cooler for it and will still protect from any freezing you will have down there and, if you use distilled, it won't corrode anyway.
What I would do is this: replace all the hoses... but first, flush the engine out with water, lotsa water, then, use a good radiator flush.... remove the t-stat, back flush it, remove the heater control, flush it some more.
then, drain the block, drain the heater, run some water through it all again.
replace the hoses...add water...
then run it for a while with just distilled water. no coolant. let the water get good and hot, hell, add some flush at the same time!
let it get good and hot and burn off whatever else may be in there... then drain again, completely.
refill. your in orlando, I would go with 70% water/30% coolant. IT will run cooler for it and will still protect from any freezing you will have down there and, if you use distilled, it won't corrode anyway.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 4,397
Likes: 0
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Originally Posted by bogus
lemme put it this way... you have nothing to lose... and everything to gain.
What I would do is this: replace all the hoses... but first, flush the engine out with water, lotsa water, then, use a good radiator flush.... remove the t-stat, back flush it, remove the heater control, flush it some more.
then, drain the block, drain the heater, run some water through it all again.
replace the hoses...add water...
then run it for a while with just distilled water. no coolant. let the water get good and hot, hell, add some flush at the same time!
let it get good and hot and burn off whatever else may be in there... then drain again, completely.
refill. your in orlando, I would go with 70% water/30% coolant. IT will run cooler for it and will still protect from any freezing you will have down there and, if you use distilled, it won't corrode anyway.
What I would do is this: replace all the hoses... but first, flush the engine out with water, lotsa water, then, use a good radiator flush.... remove the t-stat, back flush it, remove the heater control, flush it some more.
then, drain the block, drain the heater, run some water through it all again.
replace the hoses...add water...
then run it for a while with just distilled water. no coolant. let the water get good and hot, hell, add some flush at the same time!
let it get good and hot and burn off whatever else may be in there... then drain again, completely.
refill. your in orlando, I would go with 70% water/30% coolant. IT will run cooler for it and will still protect from any freezing you will have down there and, if you use distilled, it won't corrode anyway.
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Stafford VA
For what its worth, I just had to have the intake manifold gasket replaced on my 2000 Impala. During the process the guys at the shop I go to showed me the wonderful sludge mess the Dex Cool left... could see it in the radiator. Awful stuff.
Anyways I went with a flush and run the green stuff now. They did inform me that while the flush was better than laeving the Dex in there, it probably would take much more to really get it out of the system.
Think once I have closed the deal on my Vette I may look into trading in the Impala for a smaller sedan. I swear I think they built a self distruct in at 100k miles on these freakin Impalas.
Anyways I went with a flush and run the green stuff now. They did inform me that while the flush was better than laeving the Dex in there, it probably would take much more to really get it out of the system.
Think once I have closed the deal on my Vette I may look into trading in the Impala for a smaller sedan. I swear I think they built a self distruct in at 100k miles on these freakin Impalas.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,011
Likes: 0
From: Texarkana TX
Because my vette is nearing 100K miles, I did a transmission filter and fluid change along with a coolant flush and refill. I did NOT use Dex Cool this time because of all of the horror stories. I used some prestone green stuff. I think I will like it much better.
B.
B.
Racer
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 355
Likes: 0
From: Sarasota FL
Just to present the other side:
When I changed the water pump on my 90 coupe three years ago, I flushed everything several times, intalled new hoses and put in a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Dex-cool.
I replaced my radiator this weekend (cracked plastic tank). The coolant I drained out looks as clean as when I put it in - no sign of any sludge at all. I put straight water back in to check for leaks, but the old coolant mixture looks good enough that I was tempted to put it back in.
I'm not contesting the fact that others have had Dex-cool related problems, but it's not a given. Many of us have had success using it.
Mark
When I changed the water pump on my 90 coupe three years ago, I flushed everything several times, intalled new hoses and put in a 50/50 mix of distilled water and Dex-cool.
I replaced my radiator this weekend (cracked plastic tank). The coolant I drained out looks as clean as when I put it in - no sign of any sludge at all. I put straight water back in to check for leaks, but the old coolant mixture looks good enough that I was tempted to put it back in.
I'm not contesting the fact that others have had Dex-cool related problems, but it's not a given. Many of us have had success using it.
Mark
Racer
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 299
Likes: 0
From: manalapan, nj
I put Dex-cool in my '96 explorer and my '71 LS-5. The explorer had about 50k on it. It now has 135k on the original waterpump. No problems with the Ls-5 either. If it is flushed properly it really is a good product.
Ray
Ray