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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 09:36 PM
  #21  
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Does this thread pertain mostly to Automatic cars? How often do yall change the fluid for a manual?
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Old Dec 13, 2004 | 10:01 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by c4sforever
the trick is to not get any on you in the process if more people changed their tranny fluid as suggested in their owners manual there would be less trans problems in the world.fluid and filter every 30,000
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 10:30 AM
  #23  
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What about changing the rear end fluid...is any one doing that?
I have recently.

I used a cheapo suction gun and some rubber tubing.

Mobil 1.

Does this thread pertain mostly to Automatic cars? How often do yall change the fluid for a manual?
I just changed my ZF6 fluid as well, I plan on changing it every 12,000 with the Castrol TWS 10w60.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 04:54 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DukeDiablo
EDIT: I see Chris Ionno already explained this!

On my Scout II...I flush with the following method:

Take an empty gallon jug and mark on the jug approximately where a quart of fluid fills to.

Make sure your tranny fluid is up to level when warm before starting this procedure.

Disconnect the tranny cooler/heater exchanger output line. Hook some rubber tubing from the outlet of the cooler/exchanger into a gallon jug.

Start the engine and let the tranny pump fill up the gallon jug...to the quart mark. Shut off the engine.

Put one quart of fresh fluid into the transmission.

Repeat the start, stop routine until either you have put in your applications full capacity...or the fluid coming out looks new.

Check the level hot in park (or neutral for Scouts!)

This not only gives you a full exchange of fluid, but also doesn't "force" flush debris through your valve body, cooler, etc, like the machines sometimes do.

Now as far as the filter change goes...I suppose you have two choices there as well. I prefer to change the filter after I flush. I think this makes sense only because changing the filter first exposes the new filter to dirty fluid. You do waste more fluid this way; however, I don't mind.

Someday I plan on putting in a drain plug and an aftermarket spin on type filter. This should definitely help with the mess involved.

i followed this procedure when i did mine back in march and it pumps it out much faster than you would think...buy a few more quarts of ATF than you need...i just kept pouring more in and watching the level as it was being pumped out...if you do it fast enough you can add it about as fast as it is being pumped out...i had my dad shut the car down when it got to the right level that I measured and I was about 1 quart behind it so i added the extra fluid, got it at operating temp, let it idle and checked it and everything has been fine since...I also used royal purple max ATF...it is a little more expensive but this is not something that is done very often and I would rather have the extra heat capacity for $60 more.

edit: i would be worried about killing your battery since i believe the vette has around 15 quart capacity, you will be starting and stopping your car 15 times if you do it quart at a time without letting your alternator have sufficient time to recharge your battery

Last edited by OrthoAggie; Dec 14, 2004 at 04:56 PM.
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Old Dec 14, 2004 | 08:50 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by BigTexas
I am upset because I paid my mechanic to do the filter and flush. After, my tranny leaked some ATF. What is going on? I took it back up there but he put it on a lift, showed me the pan, and told me that where it is leaking was not where he worked. Could it be possible that it was his fault? I never noticed it leaking before I took it in.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:28 AM
  #26  
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funny,trannys used to be 100k service intervals.wonder why its 30k now?maybe the o.d. and lockup convertor creates more heat?
clean red trans oil shouldnt break down and need changed ever really.autos shouldnt see that kind of heat unless somethings failing or severe usage maybe,drag racing or towing....
not that im suggesting dont change it.a fresh filter is always good to get rid of the normal metal particles and new blood certainly isnt going to hurt it any.
tip on pulling the pan-remove the furthest bolts away from yourself first.if your at the rear pull the front row then both sides working towards the rear.when you crack the last row of bolts the pan should start saggin to the front dumping into the drain pan.keep loosening the last bolts as the trans pan sags more...works good.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 11:16 AM
  #27  
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if you do it fast enough you can add it about as fast as it is being pumped out...i had my dad shut the car down when it got to the right level that I measured and I was about 1 quart behind it so i added the extra fluid
I suppose I'm just paranoid about running a tranny dry (or just a little low) so I just take my time, and do it one quart at a time.

edit: i would be worried about killing your battery since i believe the vette has around 15 quart capacity, you will be starting and stopping your car 15 times if you do it quart at a time without letting your alternator have sufficient time to recharge your battery
If you are that worried...just hook up your battery charger during the process.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 04:55 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by WZDADS
Does someone make a pan to fit that has the drain plug???

But to change the filter you have to drop the pan right?
you do still have to drop the pan anyways with a drain plug when you want to change the filter but if you drain the fluid first its much more easy to just take the bolts out and drop the pan with no fluid in it, instead of taking the bolts out and lowering the pan thats still has lots of fluid in it with out getting it all over you.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:05 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by mitymek
funny,trannys used to be 100k service intervals.wonder why its 30k now?maybe the o.d. and lockup convertor creates more heat?
clean red trans oil shouldnt break down and need changed ever really.autos shouldnt see that kind of heat unless somethings failing or severe usage maybe,drag racing or towing....
What kind of cars had 100k ATF intervals?

Every AT car I've owned or worked on ATF is a 30-40k maintenance item. And even at 30k the fluid is usually pretty worn out.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 09:56 PM
  #30  
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Do it every time you feel like rebuilding your transmission.
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Old Dec 15, 2004 | 10:29 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by steve9899
What kind of cars had 100k ATF intervals?

Every AT car I've owned or worked on ATF is a 30-40k maintenance item. And even at 30k the fluid is usually pretty worn out.
any car running dexron lll atf.

to the point im getting at,30k miles is a better safe than sorry thing but its really not a relavent thing to judge trans oil condition by milleage.
if the oil never exceeds 175 deg f then it will last indefinately.if you get you vehicle stuck and are rocking it out,or pulling a heavy load,or even overheat the engine from say a water pump failure and end up heating the trans oil to 200 deg the fluid will oxidize and turn brownish looking and start stinking.
so what if this occurs when your oil only has 1000 miles on it?
your going to drive for 29000 miles varnsihing the internals the whole time.
im just saying that i feel its more important to monitor the conditionn of the oil rather than how many miles is on it.
30k filter change and 2/3 oil is good pm as a general rule.
synthetic oil would eliminate the burning problem as it can take much more heat.
if it ever looks orangeish/brown or doesnt smell right,get it out of there.
and think about a cooler or at least a temp gage for it.
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