Would appreciate any comments/experience from the Group re jacking up the C4 by placing a floor jack under one side at the mid-section carefully under the side frame rail; thereby lifting the entire side of the car. This is recommended in Newton's book, "101 Projects for Your Corvette", pg.17. Before I start some winter projects on my '96 CE; I wanted some experienced input. Obviously I'm a little skeptical, but it would help getting jack stands quickly under the car.
Thanks,
Terry
1996 CE Lt4
Madison, WI

 

Check this out: http://zr1netregistry.com/jackupzr1.htm

I use a variation of this method. I was always REAL uneasy with the jack pad being as close as it was to the brake/fuel lines when jacking in the middle. So, I fashioned a sort of saddle (made out of some small c-channel) for the frame rail to sit in that will contact the jack pad.
-Ed

 

I have the same book (101 projects)...but used the normal jack points (between the arrows) to lift just the front of the car and place jackstands for a recent oil change. I think if you are rotating tires or doing shocks, lifting both wheels up makes some sense and would be a faster way to get going. I also had to look out for the fuel lines etc.

 

It works great! Just make sure the floorjack pad does not overlap any fiberglass body material underneath as it will crack easily. I've done it numerous times without trouble.

 

Actually, even lifting at the jack marks for either end, you won't get that end too far off the ground before the other end follows. This is how rigid the frame is, even stock. It just depends on how high you need it. I was leery at first of using those points but now do all the time. The channel idea for the center is a good one too.

 

Remember I am an old salt. I would not lift any vehicle just in the middle, reasoning front and rear suspension.
I lift with two jacks at the lifting points, about an inch at either end at a time. Then I crib or use jack stands.

 

just as previously mentioned the car is stiff enough to jack up just one end and both come up, depending on your jack and how high you want to go use a second because the opposite end will be about 2 in lower than the one your working on

 

The rear position doesn't work well with verts because of the X-frame. But I boxed the X-frame and it gave me an excellent place to jack the Vette up from. I guess a picture would help out. I'll get one later.

I still like my Kwik Lift.

 

Thanks for the detailed Pics...they are really helpful. A perfect example of the phrase..."a picture is worth a thousand words!"
I always feel nervous as hell when I jack up my 87. Even with th jack between the jack placement arrows...I get this sick knot in my Gut.
Also I like the idea of jacking in stages and the use of the leather for the top of the jack stands....hey here 's some leather .....a nice long piece from my wifes new leather jacket!!!!!!

 

I also read that in Newton's book, but I found that the break and fuel lines were closer there than at the indicated front and rear jacking points. I jacked mine very near the jacking points were the lines were running a little further towards the inside of the body. I also found that both front and back could easily be raised from one jacking point.

 

I've got to the point that I can get my vette on 4 jackstands 22" off the ground in a matter of minutes. I have never had a problem lifting in the middle. Just watch the lines and also the fiberglass!

 

greetings,
question;.....i have an 88 with the "glass" 1-piece bronze removable top. does the same apply (as in the picts i saw and link i went to) for jacking up an 88?

with the roof section in place, i would be affraid of the roof section cracking or the appearance of those spider-web hair line cracks that i read so much about.

i had an 81 t-top and always cracked open the doors, hood and either loosened the t-tops or removed them entirely.

i recently did some work on my 88 and jacked up the car on one side. i did not finish what i was doing so, i layed the top back into the holes without tightening it in and went to bed. the following morning, i noticed that one side of the top was sticking up a bit and would not go down into the holes for it! i had no damage but, i had to lower the car when i was done to seat the top.

i wonder if i were to jack up the car with the doors shut, hood shut and top securly in place, if i would actually sustain damage rather then to take everything loose and open doors, etc.?

i believe these cars flex a lot and if the degree of "flexation" is too great, cracking/damage would occur. with the doors cracked open, there is room for movement as in the hood and top and that veer so expensive rear hatch glass. with everything tightened down, what doesn't give breaks.

 

THANKS TO ALL FOR THE INPUT: WHAT A GREAT ASSET THIS SITE IS FOR ALL US VETTEHEADS.

 

tvett68, we're all here to help.

just to add to the anectdotes, i jack up just under the side mirror to lift an entire side. yes, you need to be careful of the fuel/brake lines.

i'd like to add that if you are using jack stands without any cushions (such as wood or hockey pucks) to hold up the car, may i suggest putting the edges of the frame rails on the "cup" of the jackstand, instead of placing the stand within the "cup" or the frame rails. i used to to this, and lately noticed some dents in middle of the rear frame rails due to letting the car down too quickly.

i used to think the frame rail "edges" would buckle under the weight, but i think it might actually be the safer way to do it.