Well, I got my springs and on the bench they solved the observed problem. When de-engergizing that coil in the internal switch, the little cam thingy disengages every time instantly. No more sticking.

But installed with full power to the motor and it still doesn't shut off. So I'll keep futzing with it. YMMV.

 

Still no solution for the wipers, but I was able to get my AfterDark Speed rear swaybar endlinks installed. I cleaned up the OE bar and put new brackets in with it.


New AfterDark Speed endlink

Been super busy with the holidays. but things are looking to be on track for a first start in April. Hopefully.

 

.....

 

Thanks for the heads up! I'll check it and flip it tomorrow!

 

Flipped the rear swaybar. Moving on to the next thing.

 

Gosh, I hope you didn't flip the bar. I was wrong, that is why I "..." the post. (We can't delete posts any longer. Only delete or modify the text.)

I had JUST finished reading a thread by Dizwiz about a "pogo stick ride" and two responders (grandspt and matthew miller) both said the rear sway bar was upside down. (I interpreted their description as the link ends of the bar would contact the frame.) I then saw your pic, and questioned myself because I didn't see where there would be any difference in where the link ends would be in relationship to the frame for either installation.

I went back and read the thread again, and grandspt had said the "bend" in the swaybar contacts the frame. Not the link ends. I came back, looked at your pic and it was installed correctly. I read it wrong. I took the text out of my post.

If you have to go back and flip the bar again, I apologize.

 

Dude, you were spot on. You weren't wrong. I had it upside down. I went looking for photos of C4 takeouts and even the photos in the instructions that came with the endlink kit. I had the bar upside down.

There's two purposes to this build thread. The first is to show off what I'm doing. The second is to solicit input from folks that have been down this road. This thread has already caught several mistakes. I never had to drive the car down the road with a bound up rear suspension because of a stupid mistake, and I have you to thank for that.

So keep following and if you think something's off, say something. This is my first Corvette and I bit off a really big bite.

 

I'm back! Been a long while with no action on the Corvette, but it's time for the final push.

The first big thing arrived today:


It's a 3.33 Dana 44 from a manual car. The math to make the 2.59 Dana 36 work with my camshaft just wasn't mathing. If anybody needs a 2.59 Dana 36 with a fresh bearing and seal kit in it, I now have a spare.

Torque converter is also ordered. 6-8 week lead on those nowadays.

So, my next trick is stripping this new one down and swapping it into the car.

 

Great thread so far, I have thoroughly enjoyed reading through this and seeing your progress. It is very impressive.

Are you going to be regearing or rebuilding the Dana 44 prior to installation? I've got to pull mine out to replace the seals here eventually and figured I'd regear it at the same time.

 

Thanks!

I'm not planning on regearing it. 3.33 Will work for what I'm doing.

Now, if i see things like chipped teeth when I pop the cover off? Yeah, that'll cause a shift.

 

Ok, the pallet now looks like this:



I lucked out. This diff is in great shape. No bearing slop, the backlash is well within spec. The teeth look great. The stamp on the ring gear validates it's a 3.33.

Next up is to press out the old bushings, drop the Dana 36 out of the car, move the SuperPro bushings over to the new batwing, and put it all back together for hopefully the last time.



Anybody need any of these? Free if you want to pay the shipping. Otherwise they're going to the recycler.

 

Getting at it.

Got the Dana 33 out:



I made a plan. I tied a strap around one end of the batwing, supported the center with a screw jack, disconnected the inner U-Joints, then the tow links, then the LCAs. I used ratchet straps to pull the hub assemblies out of my way. Then I undid the batwing mount bolts, lowered the screw jack and carefully lowered one end of the diff, letting it hang from the strap.

Then a one arm bear hug and yank on the sailor's knot. Strap comes loose and I set the thing on the ground.



This also has the side effect of keeping the car from tipping off the lift when the weight of the differential comes out. With no engine and gearbox in it, that possibility is low, but better safe than dead. Leaving the wheels on also helps keep it balanced. The wheels and tires are probably the heaviest units on the car until the drivetrain goes back in.

I popped the batwing off to try and push out the SuperPro bushings, but after about a half hour of futzing I have determined I can't remove them without destroying them. This diff is probably worth more than zero with those bushings installed, so I'm stopped here until another set shows up from C&S. They should be here mid week. But next weekend is full and I'll be in San Jose the week after that, so it'll be a few weeks before the next update. That update should be a doozy. I'll be making the last of the orders to finish the engine, so stuff is going to start moving fast. Stay tuned!

 

And just like that, it's in!



I'm out of town at NVidia GTC this upcoming week, but when I get back from that I'll be ordering a lot of stuff and things are going to really start moving. I'm hoping for a first start in early May if everything gets here in time.

 

Xmas in March!



Radiator's in the white box under the table. Fuel rail is broken down and cleaned waiting on the new injectors to get here. Black long box is the rocker set.

What's also missing are the heads. Backordered. :-(

Fuel tank should be here Tuesday, then I can do the fuel system from the tank to the firewall. Going AN-8 feed and AN-6 return using PTFE front to back. I also need to find a spot for the flex fuel sensor. Irritatingly the rail schrader valve is damaged and I need to find a new one of those, too.

And then there's brain over to the right. Haltech Nexus R3 and their universal 8' harness. Plan with that is once I've mapped all the inputs and outputs to the wires, I'll build an engine harness while the engine is still on the stand that hits a connector at the back of the intake, and that connector will got to the computer. That'll make pulling the motor way easier in the future. One electrical connector, battery wire from the alternator, ground, and fluids and it'll come right out. None of this disconnecting everything in the car and flopping the harness over onto the windscreen and trying to hold it out of the way with the wipers. Not needing to have the engine harness serviceable in the car means I can tuck the wires tight and make it look nice.

Still waiting on a bunch of stuff. The TorqueHead parts, the heads, the second O2 sensor and controller, Flex fuel sensor, fuel filter, regulator, injectors and pump...

But purchase means progress. So this is progress.

Hopefully the next update will be the fuel tank going in. I'm tired of stepping over that giant tank cradle that's in my floor. We shall see.

 

Decided to go ahead and break down the water pump.

Had one bolt snap off. I've got it out. Helicoil ordered. I also need to find a new O-ring. It's sitting in the sonic cleaner now getting degunked.





Corrosion around the lip where the front cover seats explains the stuck bolt. This sucker was leaking. I've also tapped the weep hole and will be plugging it with a set screw and epoxy.

 

I fear a bolt breaking more than anything with my car, with my luck it would be one where I have to pull the engine. lol

 

PB Blaster and a torch are your friend. I got the rest out with that.

 

Great job on the D44 swap! That will pair nicely with your setup and I think you will be very happy with it!! Keep up the great work on this car!!

 

More fun. So, my fuel rail pressure test port was ruined. Looks like somebody pried against it and smashed the taper on the -4AN part. Can't find a replacement due to the super odd 5/16-18 fitting in the rail.

So I just drilled and tapped it for 1/8 NPT.



The fuel tank showed up today, so I dug out the fuel tank frame thingy, cleaned it up and got the old straps off. I've coated the spots where it meets the car frame as well as the strap slides with some bronze plasti-dip. Hoping this helps cut down on the galvanic corrosion. I've already painted the frame side of these interfaces. Fingers crossed.



Why bronze? It was what I had laying around.

 

And the tank is back in its cradle!



Now I'm stuck until the pump hanger and pump get here.