C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

long tube header install?

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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:00 PM
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Default long tube header install?

I just purchased a new set of long tubes and I am curious if any one has any tips on the install and also curious how long it takes and how big of a pia it is..thanks guys and this forum rocks!

(also my car is a 91 with tpi of course)

Last edited by ar91c4; Jan 26, 2005 at 08:15 PM.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:11 PM
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Its an all day job. If you are well prepared. I thought I was, till I broke 2 pipe expanders and spent 2 hours trying to make the cat fit the Y pipe. That was the hard part for me.
I also decided to leave the dipstick tube in, and notch the header flange. The tube just wouldn't come out of the block.
What brand do you have ? Got all the correct parts ? A full tool box ?
These things determine if its an easy or hard job.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:19 PM
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Agree with Spanky. I found that my TPIS coated headers, as good as they are, had minor fit problems. If yours are coated, make sure Y pipe fits headers and Y fits CAT before install, or take parts to muffler shop to hydraulically expand the parts to fit. The bolt holes had also closed up and had to be drilled due to coating. Easier to find out before trying to bolt to car. make sure all bolts go in straight. I had to use the side of a socket to beat the primary tube of #7 to get a straight shot. Again it was the coating that filled in that dimple. Do yourself a favor and wrap your starter with some of that Chrome Heat sheild stuff, and the wires to the starter and the wire to the O2 sensor. Make sure spark wires are well away. I burnt my number 8 wire on first start up. And they were high temp wires. Make sure brake lines are also well away from headers or wrapped with that cloth.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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i've got plenty of tools (a machine shop full)...also I dont know the brand they are.I know they are stainless and for a 91..(i bought them off ebay)...mandrel bent was all it said in the auction....also if I have stock cats and manifolds how much cutting and welding am i looking forward to?I am going to do away with the cats all together and from my x back seems to be floemaster.thanks
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 08:44 PM
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Did you get a Y pipe for the headers ? If so its just a Straight shot between it and the rear. you may be able to cut the flange off the back of the converter and use it for the hook up.
My TPIS headers fit really well but the Y pipe was a bit crooked and that took some adjusting.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
Did you get a Y pipe for the headers ? If so its just a Straight shot between it and the rear. you may be able to cut the flange off the back of the converter and use it for the hook up.
My TPIS headers fit really well but the Y pipe was a bit crooked and that took some adjusting.
nope no y pipe..I was thinking cut and weld new flanges..the y pipe seems to be a ton easier though huh?where did you pic yours up from?what kinda price?
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Mine came with the headers. Tpis coated headers are expensive but complete. Even come with the clamps. I think Summit sells the Hooker Y pipe as a seperate item but it probably wont work with your headers.
If you install the headers you could take it to a muffler shop and get pipes made. Hope you dont have to deal with the smog cops.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
Mine came with the headers. Tpis coated headers are expensive but complete. Even come with the clamps. I think Summit sells the Hooker Y pipe as a seperate item but it probably wont work with your headers.
If you install the headers you could take it to a muffler shop and get pipes made. Hope you dont have to deal with the smog cops.
nope....they dont exist here...LOL....no inspection at all anymore....I guess thats what i will do...stick them on and go down to the exhaust shop down the street. so was it a real pia bolting them up?..what kind of clearance we got?they both go in from the bottom?
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:26 PM
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You bought those headers from headersforless on ebay didn't you? If so, I believe they are headmans headers.

I put both of mine in from the bottom. You will have to drop the starter, put the passenger side up loosely, and then reinstall the starter before you tighten the headers to the head. I used 1" socket head cap screws, they are easier to tighten than bolts. Picked them up at the local bolt bin.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JCAIRE2
You bought those headers from headersforless on ebay didn't you? If so, I believe they are headmans headers.

I put both of mine in from the bottom. You will have to drop the starter, put the passenger side up loosely, and then reinstall the starter before you tighten the headers to the head. I used 1" socket head cap screws, they are easier to tighten than bolts. Picked them up at the local bolt bin.
cool and ya i did get them from headers for less.Did you also purchase yours from him?what kind of price did you get them for?and how damb long did it take for him to reply after the end of the auction?
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:37 PM
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I have lingenfelter headers I bought off another forum member.

If you have any other questions about the install, ask away.
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:42 PM
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First get car at least 16 inches off floor and on to 4 jackstands. Then start by unhooking the battery and dropping the starter. Then get the o2 sensor out and drop stock Y pipe out. Some pb blaster on stock collector bolts the day before will help. I still had to break some off. Then remove your plugs and wires and plugwire clips and brackets and remove stock manifolds. My stock manifold to head bolts came out easily. On the passenger side the EGR pipe has to come off or at least off of the manifold end.

Clean up your old manifold gasket material off the heads. I started with the easy side (drivers) and worked header up from bottom and sort of hung it near in place then climbed out and positioned the gasket and header in place from above. Then I started all the bolts but did NOT tighten them. Then I did the same on passenger side. If you got the Hooker super comps then they have a notched flange already and removal of oil dipstick tube is not needed. I removed mine anyway for more room because it pulled out easily. Some wont. The Hookers also have a notched #8 bolt hole so I you have it I suggest you start that bolt with the gasket in place and sort of tie or prop the gasket up at other end while you work the header up into place. Also, the heat sheild protecting fuel filter and lines will hinder the placement of header so go ahead and remove it when you pull the starter and reinstall it when your done. Get the header up into place and lift the gasket up on other end and slide the #8 notched bolt hole over #8 bolt. Then start all the other bolts. Removing the center inner fender skirt (6 screws)will aid you greatlty in the bolt placement and you will not have to move the AC compressor. Go ahead and tighten this side down. Zig zag back and forth when tightening and do each bolt a little at a time so as not to distort flange or gasket. The # 8 bolt is a PITA. I cut a wrench to do it. Some guys have welded a custom wrench for this bolt.

After you have the hard side bolted up and tightened then put your starter back on and then place your Y pipe and start your collector bolts but DONT TIGHTEN them yet. My cat slid right onto the hooker Y pipe so I didn't need any pipe expander. Guess I was lucky. I did have to use a tree with a Y in it to wrestle my cat off of stock Y pipe however. When you have all the collector bolts started climb out and tighten the drivers side header bolts using the same zig zag method as before. Then get back under and tighten the collector and cat bolts.

Put your plugs and wires back on. The inner bolt holes on the stock plug wire brackets had to be grinded off with the hookers because the flanges partially covered one of each ones mounting screw holes. Then they had to be remounted with only one bolt each. It works fine that way.Then your done. Check it for leaks then get it off the stands and drive it!! You'll be like !!! Dont forget to retighten bolts a few times after driving several times.

WOW, I feel like I just wrote a tech tip!

I have pics of my install on a thread a few weeks old. If you like I can find it.

Good luck with your install,

Dave
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Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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Well, I was afraid of that. About 5 comments were made on thread while I was writing my comment.

I see now that you have headmans and no Y pipe. I suggest you do your best to find a Y pipe specific to your car and headers. It will be worth every cent in my opinion.

Again, Good luck.

Dave
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by skateparkdave
Well, I was afraid of that. About 5 comments were made on thread while I was writing my comment.

I see now that you have headmans and no Y pipe. I suggest you do your best to find a Y pipe specific to your car and headers. It will be worth every cent in my opinion.

Again, Good luck.

Dave
well thanks for all the info dave....and if you can send me some pics to afrz28@yahoo.com..i realy do appreciate it and once again this forum rocks and theres no better place to get the info you need asap.thanks ya'll...lol
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:18 AM
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Originally Posted by ar91c4
well thanks for all the info dave....and if you can send me some pics to afrz28@yahoo.com..i realy do appreciate it and once again this forum rocks and theres no better place to get the info you need asap.thanks ya'll...lol
You're welcome.

Rather than compose an email with all the pics here's the threads with pics.

Here's part one..the first night.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=986666

Here's part two..the completion.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...+night+hookers
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 05:39 PM
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Well my long tube SLP's and Y pipe went on without too much of a problem. It was after the first long ride that I ran into a problem. Cooked the starter and found out the hard way how fun it is to change with 3" Y pipe.....IMPOSSIBLE! Without removing the Y pipe and right side header.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 06:07 PM
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Originally Posted by stock86vette
Well my long tube SLP's and Y pipe went on without too much of a problem. It was after the first long ride that I ran into a problem. Cooked the starter and found out the hard way how fun it is to change with 3" Y pipe.....IMPOSSIBLE! Without removing the Y pipe and right side header.
Wow! That sucks! Not that way with Hookers. If anything it's actually easier to get the starter in and out now. Can do it without even pulling the knock sensor and it's sheild now.
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Old Jan 27, 2005 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by skateparkdave
Wow! That sucks! Not that way with Hookers. If anything it's actually easier to get the starter in and out now. Can do it without even pulling the knock sensor and it's sheild now.
Damn! Guess next time I'll go with Hookers
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