Replacing Coolant Hoses - Questions
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 589
Likes: 1
From: Tucker GA
Replacing Coolant Hoses - Questions
I have an 89 with all original coolant hoses (66K miles). Shop says the hoses are still good, and I don't doubt it, but still; 15 years on them concerns me and I am considering changing them all.
Questions are:
1. About how long should it take me to replace all the hoses?
2. I assume GM replacement hoses are available? I looked at Eckler's and Corvette America catalogs and it appears between them they have all the hoses. Does anybody have any experience with their replacement hoses? Are there other suppliers I should consider?
3. Car has the oil cooler in the heater hose set-up. Are there any things I need to look out for in changing those hoses in particular.
Any information members can share on these questions or additional information I could use, will be most appreciated.
Bob
Questions are:
1. About how long should it take me to replace all the hoses?
2. I assume GM replacement hoses are available? I looked at Eckler's and Corvette America catalogs and it appears between them they have all the hoses. Does anybody have any experience with their replacement hoses? Are there other suppliers I should consider?
3. Car has the oil cooler in the heater hose set-up. Are there any things I need to look out for in changing those hoses in particular.
Any information members can share on these questions or additional information I could use, will be most appreciated.
Bob
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 6,097
Likes: 0
From: High Plains Drifter Fayetteville, AR
The two main radiator hoses are easy to change.
The hose that runs from the throttle body to the water pump will be a chore. The hose from the TB to the heater core will be easy, but it's a molded hose from the factory. The hose from the heater core to the water pump that includes the T for the steam hose from the manifold, and the oil cooler will be a downright bitch to change out. You will need to remove the A/C compressor, serpentine belt, possible the idler pulley, and maybe disconnect the fuel lines to pull the A/C bracket off the engine. The oil cooler hose runs through a hole in the A/C bracket.
You can see the notch I made in the A/C bracket when I changed the water pump out last week. The oil cooler hose runs through there.
The hose that runs from the throttle body to the water pump will be a chore. The hose from the TB to the heater core will be easy, but it's a molded hose from the factory. The hose from the heater core to the water pump that includes the T for the steam hose from the manifold, and the oil cooler will be a downright bitch to change out. You will need to remove the A/C compressor, serpentine belt, possible the idler pulley, and maybe disconnect the fuel lines to pull the A/C bracket off the engine. The oil cooler hose runs through a hole in the A/C bracket.
You can see the notch I made in the A/C bracket when I changed the water pump out last week. The oil cooler hose runs through there.
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Look at your water pump
I just changed all the hoses on my 95 LT1. You might want
to draw a diagram of what hose goes where, unless you change
them one at a time. I also replaced the water pump. I was
at about 67,000 miles and noticed that the pump had just started
to weep from the lower hole in the pump. You don't want the
coolant getting into your Omnispark distributor. Check your water
pump, or better yet change it now, and do not risk destroying
your distributor. Go to gmpartsdirect.com for the best price on
the water pump. It comes with a new thermostat. I don't
recomend rebuilt pumps. If you don't want to change the pump yet
think about running a small tube/line from the weep hole in
the pump away from the distributor. This way when it does start to
leak you don't destroy your distributor.
Good luck
birdman2
to draw a diagram of what hose goes where, unless you change
them one at a time. I also replaced the water pump. I was
at about 67,000 miles and noticed that the pump had just started
to weep from the lower hole in the pump. You don't want the
coolant getting into your Omnispark distributor. Check your water
pump, or better yet change it now, and do not risk destroying
your distributor. Go to gmpartsdirect.com for the best price on
the water pump. It comes with a new thermostat. I don't
recomend rebuilt pumps. If you don't want to change the pump yet
think about running a small tube/line from the weep hole in
the pump away from the distributor. This way when it does start to
leak you don't destroy your distributor.
Good luck
birdman2
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,954
Likes: 2
From: Obama=death for America
Summitt Racing sells coolant hoses and they are excellent. They are silicone, blue, are stronger and will outlast any stock hose you can buy. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 589
Likes: 1
From: Tucker GA
Originally Posted by 85 500 horse
Summitt Racing sells coolant hoses and they are excellent. They are silicone, blue, are stronger and will outlast any stock hose you can buy. They're not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Thanks for all the responses. I had heard about the blue silicone and was actually thinking about esitmating the cost using them instead of stock.
Bob
Racer
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 377
Likes: 1
From: Redmond Wa
I just did all of mine on my '91 (oil cooler included). It took me most of the weekend. I also did a really thorough flush and changed out the thermostat. The big problem is some of those old lines tend to "weld" themselves to the metal parts they connect to and being in some very awkward places doesn't help. I bought all my hoses from http://www.superchevyperformance.com/ Everything is genuine GM and was relatively inexpensive compared to the catalog suppliers. It's a good time to do the throttle body coolant by-bass also. 
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Team Owner
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 90,675
Likes: 304
From: SE NY
Cruise-In II Veteran
I tried to get the oil cooler hose that goes through the A/C bracket from my local Chevy dealer and, instead of the molded hose, he sold me one made up with splices. This is likely one that needs replacement as it passes through and rubs on the bracket.
While you are in there it would be a great time to do the TB coolant bypass mod. Simply pick up a "U"-shaped section of hose, cut one end short enough to fit into the water pump fitting and leave the other end long enough to loop back behind the A/C compressor. There you can splice into the heater hose and the splice will be very stealth.
While you are in there it would be a great time to do the TB coolant bypass mod. Simply pick up a "U"-shaped section of hose, cut one end short enough to fit into the water pump fitting and leave the other end long enough to loop back behind the A/C compressor. There you can splice into the heater hose and the splice will be very stealth.