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You ought to look at that decision again. The consensus of most here on the group is that it is a "Snake Oil" mod. No improvement in performance.
Stay with the 180 degree thermostat. Unless you live where its really really really hot ALL the time. GM used 180 because it represents the best most balanced choice for engine longevity, performance, and efficiency in a broad range of climates.
don't confuse the thermostat open temperature wit the car operating temperature. The area of your rad and its condition affect cooling efficiency. cooling efficiency is what governs your operating temperature. The thermostat only determines when the collant starts to flow thru the rad.
My'88 with a 160 stat operates at 185+/- 5 degrees in normal driving conditions during weather above 60 degrees. In hot weather (80+) in stop and go it still hits 205 deg.
bought my 160 at Murrays Discount auto parts
I agree. Shy away from the 160 and go with the 180. Some (ignorant) people believe that running your car without a thermostat will do even more for their car's performance. And then they wonder why problems soon develop.
I agree. Shy away from the 160 and go with the 180. Some (ignorant) people believe that running your car without a thermostat will do even more for their car's performance. And then they wonder why problems soon develop.
I believe the theory being, that with the Thermostat removed, water passes too quickly through the radiator, thus giving the water less time to release heat through the Rad. core and out to the fins. Thermostats, in addition to controlling engine temp., are also intended to be restrictors(ie they also control the flow"rate"). This is why some engines will actually overheat when Thermo. is removed..
GM sized the radiator to get rid of heat fast enough to maintain 180-195 deg F above 35 mph. Installing a 160 stat will result in 180-195 operating temps above 35 mph and the 160 stat will be wide open. In winter, because of the large difference in coolant to air temperature, the cooling system can get rid of heat fast enough to allow the 160 stat to control the operating temperature to 160, but......auto engines should not be operated at 160 due to increased engine wear. The usual claims for the 160 stat is a decrease in inlet air temp in the intake due to the intake operating at a lower temperature and a corresponding increase in hp due to more dense inlet air. Two forum members have stated in past posts about 160 stats that they changed stats during a dyno session and found no difference in the measured rear wheel horsepower between their 180 and a 160 stat.
Well I can tell you that I have played with different tempatures at the local track on test and tunes and my vette runs quicker and faster when it is around 160 compared to 180 to 190, and 200 + gets worse. I use a electric pump to cool it back down to 160 when setting in the staging lanes. Now this could be due to my tuning not being correct and running rich, I just dont know. Also I do not want to speak on engine wear as I dont know about that either. Mine is not a daily driver, and only gets 2 to 3 thousand miles a year on it so the additional wear is not a concern.
The 160 in a LT1 acts more like a 180 in a standard small block due to the reverse cooling. A standard small block opens the t-stat at its set tempature when the water has passed through the block and then hits the t-stat. A LT1 has the water at the t-stats set tempature entering the engine and then picks up additional heat. Because of this under normal driving conditions, I still see temps of 180-185.
If you do a search in the drag race section I believe you will find most guys say leaving the lines at the lower temps gives better times.
As far as were to get the t-stat, you can order it from ZIP (a supporting vender) I got mine there 2 years ago and it was $19.95
After that temp. the tstat is open and its up to the efficiency of your radiator and the entire system. If you want to run cooler, run a 180 and do a clean and flush of the entire system. I live in South Florida and went with the above advice and now run around 188-190 on the highway and around 191-194 in traffic at 85 degrees outside.
stick with the 180. I've read every post and web site I could find regarding this HIGHLY controversial subject.If-in fact you see a HP gain-it will most likely be 1HP (which I doubt), oil temps MAY not reach high enough temps to purge any condensation and with the stock system in good condition your vette should not reach dangerous temps. With a 180 thermo and a lower fan temp switch on my 87 my coolant temps have not exceeded 209 in stop and go.
I live in Calif where it gets very hot July and Aug and watching 200-220+ on my temp guage is very unsettling to me. So I got smart and put a 160 in my '88. It dropped the operating temperature to an average of around 180 and I was a happy camper. I also noticed no performance change in drag strip times. Then I realized it cost me about 2 miles per gallon fuel consumtion on average (daily driver). WTF, over? I vote don't go to 160.
I live in Calif where it gets very hot July and Aug and watching 200-220+ on my temp guage is very unsettling to me. So I got smart and put a 160 in my '88. It dropped the operating temperature to an average of around 180 and I was a happy camper. I also noticed no performance change in drag strip times. Then I realized it cost me about 2 miles per gallon fuel consumtion on average (daily driver). WTF, over? I vote don't go to 160.
you just hit it.
Modern engines need the heat. It will help the combustion process, helps the metal, you name it.
use the stock 180.
If you need cooler, get a better radiator. If you live in a hot area, drop the amt of anti-freeze in the system and add some water wetter. Water, you see, is the best stuff for heat transfer.