85 oil press. switch socket size?

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Feb 3, 2005 | 08:21 PM

parafrog

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 476

Likes: 0

From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.

85 oil press. switch socket size?

i pulled the distributor cap (replacing with hypertech high voltage coil and msd wires), and decided to have a go at replacing the defunct oil pressure sender. i tried to torque it from the pot metal top, but that just twisted around the steel base. next i tried to torque it from the base, but the oil pressure switch next to it stopped me from getting a wrench on it. then i tried to bash the pot metal cap from the sensor, but the whole thing is on a double elbow out of the motor which caused it to rotate under pressure. i then pulled the distributor but that didn't help. next i tried to pull the switch, but it looks like it takes a 12 sided socket to remove it--plus there isn't much room between it and the sender.

the only way i can see for me to pull the sensor is to remove the switch next to it, but the switch doesn't use a conventional socket. does anyone know what size and what type of socket this part needs? i'm so close to putting this pig on the road, but my health problems are close to making me give up. can anyone help?

tanks, froggy

Feb 3, 2005 | 08:35 PM

XQIZT

Drifting

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 1,613

Likes: 0

From: Orlando FL

i removed the wiper motor to get easy access to the sender. i BELIEVE that it was a metric socket, but it wasn't really stuck on there all that hard either.

word to the wise, ONLY use a Delco part. the cheapie from autozone/discount auto etc isn't calibrated right and it'll give you a heart attack when you see how "lo" your pressure is.

Feb 3, 2005 | 09:12 PM

parafrog

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 476

Likes: 0

From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.

orlando,
i'm thinking about using a guy off of e-bay who evidentally programs stage 1 chips at home for sixty bucks. do you see a difference using the stage one chip and stock? evidentally i can tell him my desired thermostat, fan turn on and converter lockup requests. it seems he is using high dollar chips as a reference to his programming. i have also heard the stage one only changes fuel and timing under full throttle. have you seen this to be true?

and by the way. my sensor and switch don't want to come out. the word bitch doesn't even come close--frozen is more like it.

frog.

Feb 3, 2005 | 10:12 PM

XQIZT

Drifting

Joined: Jul 2003

Posts: 1,613

Likes: 0

From: Orlando FL

the car came with the hypertech chip in it. i've never put the stock chip in to compare. not sure if its good or bad. from things i have read, they don't do much. change some things at WOT, and fan turn on temps, etc. but at cruise, apparently the ECM is always looking for a ideal fuel/air mix, and it changes the mix depending on info it gets from various sensors, the chip has nothing to do with it. i don't think i would waste the money really. if you are looking for real performance, buy real parts that increase air flow in and out of the motor (heads, headers, cam, exhaust) a custm chip would only be needed to make all he new non-stock parts play nicely together. just my $.02

as far as the sensor, get some PB blaster and blast it, let it soak over night, repeat as necessary.

Feb 3, 2005 | 10:42 PM

parafrog

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 476

Likes: 0

From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.

[QUOTEas far as the sensor, get some PB blaster and blast it, let it soak over night, repeat as necessary.[/QUOTE]

thanks for the info, but i already tried everything including grease to remove the sensor. what i need to do is remove the switch in order to get at the sensor base.

thanks, para

Last edited by parafrog; Feb 6, 2005 at 12:34 AM.

Feb 6, 2005 | 12:37 AM

parafrog

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 476

Likes: 0

From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.

i got the sensor off, then was able to remove the switch and reseal most of the parts. the new niehoff relay has a longer shaft which allows removal of one or the other without getting in the way. i guess somebody noticed the problem and fixed it.

frog.

Feb 6, 2005 | 02:15 AM

CentralCoaster

Team Owner

Joined: May 2002

Posts: 24,337

Likes: 25

From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed

Yeah, my niehoff piece was longer.

I used teflon tape on the threads, no leaks... but now I'm wondering if that is giving me a crappy ground on the sending unit, causing my oil pressure to read artificially high.

Feb 6, 2005 | 02:44 AM

parafrog

Thread Starter

Racer

Joined: Jan 2005

Posts: 476

Likes: 0

From: Tucson, AZ. L98-85 AUTO COUPE: 120k MILES: daily driver. SOUND OFF IF YOU'VE BEEN THERE. Ex-Jumpin' Junky-82nd Airborne-2/505 PIR: 1st ID-1/16th Inf: Recon Marine Retread. GOD BLESS GRUNTS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by CentralCoaster

i think the old teflon tape on my sensor was what caused it to be so hard to get off. the tape had dried like concrete--too much heat for too long a time. i don't think i'll use teflon again. from now on i'll use sealant only.

i'll post when i get the pig running and let you know if the pressure is correct. someone posted something about aftermarket sensors being off--i don't know if he was referring to a niehoff.

frog.