I am getting ready to install a new ZZ4 engine. So, if the engine is out what else should I replace????????????????

 

anything you might want to that is now easy to get at. Think about future mods you may have wanted to do that can be done now.

 

how about the heater core ??? I don't know what is involved but does it make it any easier if the motor is out????

 

Part of the answer depends. Automatic or Manual Trans.
If it is auto, could consider new Torque Converter...If Manual..Flywheel and clutch, through out bearing...etc.
Also good time to change trans fluid either auto or manual.
You could continue. Due you want headers if you do not have them, Due you need a new main cat or pre-cats...etc.

 

Some engines come with new water pumps and some do not. Find out if yours will and if it won't, I would definitely have a new one installed with the new engine.

 

I put in new engine mounts, new hoses, new waterpump (ZZ4 pump will not fit), new fuel filter, new torque convertor, with my zz4.....then I got carried away with a bonus check and put in headers, and super ram, and injectors and AFPR. I also cleaned the fuel rail and put in new Orings which was easy. Good luck. My ZZ4 just screams with the stock zz4 cam, but wish I had put the LPE 219 cam in when I had the chance.
You will have to trim one of the timing cover bolts and a little on the vette water pump. I was advised to re-use the front balancer, cause its smaller. Then you will also maybe have a bolt alignment problem between the center intake bolts and the head, unless you upgrade to the Accel intake with the ZZ4 alum heads. They have a different bolt hole angle, I was told. You could also slightly elongate the stock TPI bolt holes with a drill, if careful. Also make sure your old distributor gear is in good shape or replace it. It is also cheap insurance and easy to do. Good luck....

 

I am buying a crate ZZ4 engine. I see you mention the stock ZZ4 water pump does not work. (Why)?. I too am adding a superram and headers. It sounds like we will have similar setups. Any info you can give me is greatly appreciated. You also mention distibutor and balancer problems?. Explain

 

No, unless you are changing the heater hoses and crack the heater core by not being careful when pull the hoses out. The heater core is inside the car so it has nothing to do with the engine bay, except those two heater hoses.

 

How about the front tranny seal if it's an automatic? And does the Corvette use a different oil pan? I was wondering because I just bought an '86 with no motor and most crate engines come with the standard chevy oil pan. And someone mentioned water pump, is it different length or just need to be correct rotation for the belt setup?

 

Power steering rack. It's really easy with the motor out - I'm doing mine next week...

 

The ZZ4 comes with a long water pump and you want a short waterpump, that is aluminum and lighter. I got the Edelbrock VicJR higher volume pump. The front of the timing case is slightly different, so you have to grind a little off the heads of two bolts, but leave enough to be able to get bolt off. I also took a very little off the waterpump in same area so they would fit and not touch with a die grinder and cut off wheel. You will not have an angle problem with the intake if you use the Accel intake. The distributor with the zz4 has a vacum advance and is not setup for the corvette electronics. Use the original distributor and replace the cap and rotor with new. Also look at the bottom gear to see if it is worn. It is held on by a pin and is easy to replace. It is a wear item like brakes, tires and batteries. If it looks ok, don't sweat it. The front cross over under the front of the engine may/may not hit the engine balancer. I have heard it both ways. I palyed it safe and took the new ZZ4 larger balancer off and put stock vette balancer on, to get the required space. Some mentioned taking a hammer and denting the cross beam to get clearance. I decided not to do that. With the headers make sure you wrap the starter with some of that DEI heat shield wrap. Also make sure your spark plug wires are routed up and away from the pipes. I burnt number 8 wire on start up. Also the starter wire and O2 sensor wire needs protection by some heatsheild wrap. Watch the brake fluid lines on the drivers side for closeness and hat problems. bend or tywrap them as far away as possible. You will also need a fuel pump block off plate and gasket. Hope this helps...I am still pleased with my zz4, but want more.

 

corvette1990- first of all thanks for all the tips. Have you 1/4 timed the car and if so what kind of times are you getting? if not what do you think you would run? As far as the distributor is their any advantage to an MSD set up ( distributor 6AL and coil)?. Another question I have is, would you recommend installing a torque converter and what size. You mention you love the ZZ4 but want more!, If you could do it again what setup would you go with?. wow that is alot of questions, I just want to make sure i am doing the right thing, after all it's alot of money getting poured into this car. But I guess that's what so great about this hobby. you only live once better make the best of it.

 

[QUOTE=dsnell1004] Have you 1/4 timed the car and if so what kind of times are you getting? if not what do you think you would run? As far as the distributor is their any advantage to an MSD set up ( distributor 6AL and coil)?. Another question I have is, would you recommend installing a torque converter and what size. You mention you love the ZZ4 but want more!, If you could do it again what setup would you go with?QUOTE]
12.54 secs in quarter mile with BFG drag radials and custom chip and stuff in lower portion of my signature. You must have signatures turned off. If I had to do it again. I would have yanked the stock zz4 cam out and put the LPE cam 219 inside to match the intake. the stock cam is for a big carb and capable of dumpin lots of fuel fast. the fuel injection does not do that. I have heard that the msd box is great and I even own from "wheelsup". never got around to mounting it yet, either above battery or by radiator overflow. While engine is out, pull radiator and blow out the leaves and crap that are stuck up front. Preferably take it to radiator shop and have them clean it. I went with a 2200-2400 stall with lockup from Protorque. I called them up and described what I was doing and they reccommended this one. I have been through alot of transmissions, before and after engine switch. I am hard on my toys. even my bicycles would break front forks and rims. I wound up with a level ten transmission that was supposed to be bullit proof. The current one is so far (two years and counting). I swear it is made of gold and platinum, instead of kevlar and steel. I spent alot more on the engine install and parts than the car is worth. so I will have to keep it...I even saw it born on assembly line in bowling green when I ordered it. In garage is rebuilt 355 OE matching nubmers engine bored/align honed/balanced/blueprinted/with LPE heads and 219 cam, forged pistons and rods, canton oil pan, cloyes double timing chain, 1.6 pro-magnum roller rockers, new roller lifters, Comp Cams hardened pushrods, AFR Hydra-rev kit, ARP bolts. that is the faster engine that cost more than the ZZ4 engine. then there is the Shinoda williams body kit all painted and waiting warm weather to be installed before Carlisle and Race season at Capital Drag Raceway. I wanna pull wheelies

 

Will the zz4 oil pan fit in a Corvette?