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I cut the tunnel a little large because I installed the shifter with the transmission on my bench and I didn't want to remove it and reinstall. The transmission went it a bit hard. It would not slide in the last 1/2", so I slowly tightened down the bolts to make it go in. My garage floor is pretty uneven, so I think that was putting the transmission and engine at wierd angles with respect to eachother causing some mild binding. I didn't hear any "bad" noises as I brought the transmission towards the bellhousing, but I'll find out once I get the rest of the driveline installed and fire up the engine. Keeping my fingers crossed!
I'm so jealous, I will eventually do the same swap. I miss my stick. I will also do a dana 44 swap.Ooooohh yeaaaaah!!!!! Then I won't even care about making it faster. I will deal with the auto for now but only because after driving this vette I just had to have it. I am very exited for you. So tell us what its like...Any test drives?
Good luck & nice job
From: I'm the walkin dude I can see all of the world...
St. Jude Donor '03
Originally Posted by Atok
Yikes! Hope you didn't damage the pilot bearing in the end of the crank. You'll know when you start it.
but he probably didn't. I figure if he was crushing the bearing it woulda taken a bunch of torque. I had to do the same thing (very lightly I might add) with mine.
I had a template, but where I screwed up was installing the shifter with the trans out of the car. I had to enlarge the hole after I found out the hard way. Believe me, I needed that entire hole. I could have actually used another 1/2" so I was not catching on the shift boot. Oh well, no big deal. I'm just going to cover it with sheet metal with dynomat over that and be done with it.
Last edited by ninetyfivevette; Feb 9, 2005 at 09:11 PM.
Great job on your transmission conversion and the pictures you have posted. I’m just starting to investigate the same project for my car and have a couple of questions to ask. What was the reason for swapping out your steering column and did you have to reprogram your ECM?
I wanted to swap out the steering column beacuse of the key lock mechanism. However I am just going to rig my A4 column for now because the column is more of a pain to disassemble than I care to deal with right now and the mechanism is much simpler than I thought and can be easily defeated. I am not sure if you HAVE to reprogram the ECU. I mean it will runs just fine, it will set some codes, but other than that I do not know if it is an absolute requirement. That said, I will be reprogramming mine. I got a clean M6 bin from a forum member and will be transferring my fuel and spark maps to that.
It would not slide in the last 1/2", so I slowly tightened down the bolts to make it go in. My garage floor is pretty uneven, so I think that was putting the transmission and engine at wierd angles with respect to eachother causing some mild binding
Just for future reference, what was holding you up was the throw out bearing. Next time just have someone get in the car and depress the clutch pedal and the tranny will slide right in. I have removed trannys in the various vettes that I have owned at least 20-30 times and always have your problem and always get past it this way. As soon as the clutch is pressed it just slides right in place. Hope that helps..
Just for future reference, what was holding you up was the throw out bearing. Next time just have someone get in the car and depress the clutch pedal and the tranny will slide right in.
Awesome, thanks for the tip.
Just for that, here are some more pics from tonights progress:
No more jacks!!
McLeod master cylinder
New slave cylinder (I was told it has a new part number, so hopefully it won't have the same problems folks have been having lately with premature failures)
Tomorrow I will be pressing the yolk from the M6 driveshaft into my A4 shaft and I can start testing things out... after I bleed the clutch system that is.
I put the ZF6 yolk on my A4 driveshaft today and bled the clutch system. The tested the clutch release and all seems good so far!
Once I get all the wires mounted off the headers, I'll be ready to start things up and row some gears on the jack stands!!
One a side note, I am trying Redline's Light Shock Proof in the ZF6. I have read Hib Halverson's opinion about its' sound dampening qualities and think it will be a good match to my conventional flywheel and moderate mileage transmission.
I put the ZF6 yolk on my A4 driveshaft today and bled the clutch system. The tested the clutch release and all seems good so far!
Once I get all the wires mounted off the headers, I'll be ready to start things up and row some gears on the jack stands!!
One a side note, I am trying Redline's Light Shock Proof in the ZF6. I have read Hib Halverson's opinion about its' sound dampening qualities and think it will be a good match to my conventional flywheel and moderate mileage transmission.
Be very careful that the back of the fork does not hit the flywheel, if you start the car and the rpm goes down when you depress the clutch, you will have to pull off the Bell housing and relieve the back of the clutch fork.
I hope you DONT have to do this but this happened to me, I dont know why, you would think al of this stuff was supposed to fit together, but that happened to me
From: Looks like I picked the wrong week to stop sniffin glue Orlando
Good deal with the driveshaft. When I did the Richmond I found the stock driveshaft to be 1 inch to short, 1 frickin inch. Had to have a new driveshaft made, but I think the original A4 driveshaft will work with the D44, if memory servers the D44 is around an inch longer than the D36.
Be very careful that the back of the fork does not hit the flywheel, if you start the car and the rpm goes down when you depress the clutch, you will have to pull off the Bell housing and relieve the back of the clutch fork.
You've got to be $hitting me.... Oh man, I think I would cry myself to sleep for the next week if I had to take everything back apart!
I did do some crude tests to see how everything was working by spinning the wheel by hand with the clutch pedal in... Everything felt ok, and I would think if the fork was contacting something, I would have atleast felt something. Hopefully I'll be ok, but thanks for the heads up.
You've got to be $hitting me.... Oh man, I think I would cry myself to sleep for the next week if I had to take everything back apart!
I did do some crude tests to see how everything was working by spinning the wheel by hand with the clutch pedal in... Everything felt ok, and I would think if the fork was contacting something, I would have atleast felt something. Hopefully I'll be ok, but thanks for the heads up.
I used the 5.875 deep Bellhousing and when I started the car it was fine, then when I pushed the clutch in all the way, the RPM would drop, I got under the car and there was a ton of aluminum shavings were the back of the fork was contacing the pressure plate, this is why I aksed if it was 5-7/8 or 6-1/8",,, it makes a difference, I hope yours is ok and I am the only one with dumb luck
Do you have the clutch pedal in yet? It looks like a PITA to get at... My A4 doesn't have a provision for the hyd. cylinder...did you wing it and carve out a hole or was the provision for it already there?