C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

MAF sensor?

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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 08:45 PM
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Default MAF sensor?

My MAF has crapped out (and the damned warranty went out on it 2 weeks ago...go figure). Are there any high flow MAF sensors? or any particular brand I should get? That was my second one from bosch...
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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I just happen to have an extra bosch maf that has had the screens taken out and sitting in a box. It's from a 86 and I know it works because I tested it on my car. I've kept it around as a spare. It's yours for a small price if interested. Other than that I've not heard anything on the new ones. Also it could be your burnoff relays causing premature failure. Most places recommend you replace them at change out of the maf.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 09:19 PM
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Get a brand new GM unit, do NOT spend money on the 'high-flow' stuff.

Get your new one and take off the screens, and leave it alone.
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Old Feb 9, 2005 | 09:55 PM
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i have never had to replace the maf in my 89, owned it since 11/90. i also have one from an 86', has screens still in it
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 12:21 AM
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how much are the relays and are they easily accessable? Also, how much would the GM MAF cost me?
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 12:31 AM
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The relays are around $12 each. One is a burn-off and the other is a power relay. They are mounted by the battery. They are easy to get at. I got a rebuilt MAF sensor from Autozone for $150. It got funny and threw codes after a week. They exchanged it and now all is well. They say you should replace the relays when you replace the MAF sensor.
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 03:54 AM
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Originally Posted by flylowguy
They say you should replace the relays when you replace the MAF sensor.
That's what I was told by the GM mechanic on my old 88 IROC... There's supposed to be a tech bulletin dealing with replacing the relays at the same time...

The first time my MAF went out, the dealer replaced it and it died on the drive home from the dealership that day... I took it back and when I picked it up 3 days later (I was in BFE so no parts), that was when I was told about the relay replacement...
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 05:43 AM
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GM recomends the relay's be replaced every fifty thousand miles ,as routine matain.
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by vader86
Get a brand new GM unit, do NOT spend money on the 'high-flow' stuff.

Get your new one and take off the screens, and leave it alone.
How do you take the screens off? I have a 94 LT1.
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Old Feb 10, 2005 | 09:24 AM
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together, the relays are about $25
on L98 models, except 85, they are behind the battery on the firewall

On the LT1, do not remove the screens.
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 03:44 PM
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Turns out it was not the MAF, though that was the code the computer initially gave me. I replaced the MAF, then two new codes came up...the manifold air pressure circuit (which the 87's dont even have), the throttle position sensor, and the MAF circuit again. Well turns out the TPS was stuck all the way down...explains why it was dumping so much fuel for no reason. I wonder if that was the problem back in October too...it explains why it was always sporadic. The thing only got caught against the throttle body in a few spots. put some grease on there, put back on the old MAF, no problems since....
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 06:33 PM
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Default are you sure you have the correct ECM for that car?

If the ECM is throwing a code for a circuit the car doesn't have, I would be double checking that item........
And the TPS stuck all the way down......something goofy there too. I just put in a new one. the internal spring in it is pretty strong. I am trying to picture how it could get stuck all the way open, but then still be ok with some grease. Maybe you ought to replace it?
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Old Feb 15, 2005 | 10:23 PM
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A) the chip was custom burned and I would not be surprised at all if the idiot who made it put in the MAP circuit...had to send it back when I first got it because it had no cooling fan provisioning...he came recommended from scoggin dickey parts

B) the sensor rubs against the side of the throttle body (but the spring is still strong) Maybe I overtightened it when I put in the BBK throttle body...
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