Thanks John,
I cant wait to see the results of your "how much spray will an L98 take?" test. That should be very interesting. Please post or pm me the results.

Carpet tacks!!?? WTF?? Sounds like sabotage! I would be pissed. Those Mickey T's are too costly for that crap!

 

To far to the bottom Dave ,sending you up!

 

going up

 

Thanks for all the informative information. I'm thinking of doing this install for my 85. Excellent write up! The pictures were great and very helpful in visualizing what it would look like if I did it. I figured I would look through some older posts for info on nitrous and this is exactly what I was looking for.

 

I have personally hit a 1985 corvette with 200+ of nitrous with a 100% stock L98 and had zero issues. The key is plenty of fuel pressure, colder plugs, use higher grade fuel, do not spray it when the engine is hot, retard the timing more than recommended...I pulled 10 degrees out with roughly 200 hp jetting. The key to keeping your engine alive is avoiding even the slightest amount of detonation. If you detonate get out your check book.

 

looks amazing!!!

what kit did you use? how much $? and where do i get one?

thanks for the pictures too

-mark

 

You're Welcome! I'm glad you liked it. Hope it helps some people out.

Dave

It's the Barry Grant "The Nitrous Works" kit #13015
http://www.barrygrant.com/fromBarryG...PI-NITROUS.pdf
and you will want to add a purge kit, relay, 30psi hobbs switch and bottle heater for the bare minimum to be complete/safe.

I ordered mine from JEGS.

Dave

 

did you retard your timing at all? i ordered that same kit yesterday and i wanna make sure i do everything safe

 

Actually no, I was told by some to do it and by others that I should be ok up to 125 shot without. Because I wanted the exact performance I was already getting for everyday driving without the spray I elected to take my chances and left timing alone. I have no ping or detonation with mine so I guess Im ok.

I did however drop in some cooler sparkplugs that may make the difference. I use some cut back NGK B8EFS plugs with success.

Make sure you order the 30 psi hobbs switch if you didn't. You dont want to spray if your fuel pressure gets below that. The hobbs switch is plumbed on fuel side right before fuel solenoid of kit and wired to interupt nitrous kits relay ground and cuts off the nitrous system in the event that this happens. Also as I already stated, the purge kit and system relay and a bottle heater are all essential. This kit is tuned to spray at 1000-1100psi bottle pressure and you'll rarely see that with a full bottle without a heater. My full bottle pressure at 80 degrees is only about 850psi so a heater is a must.

Here's a pic of my hobbs mounted.



Here's where I did my system grounds for hobbs and full throttle (wot) switch just down below the hobbs. If you look at my other pics of the WOT switch you'll notice that yellow flex loom wire covering I used and how it dissapears under the throttle body plenum. Now look at the pic of the grounds you'll notice the other end of that flex loom. The red wire goes from wot switch to relay and the the black from wot to ground. If the throttle is not wide open then the nitrous system is not grounded and wont spray. Same with the hobbs, if fuel pressure is not enough the system is not grounded and wont spray.



After the grounds the wire come up and group with the nitrous/fuel/purge solenoids which are grounded at the same location then all follow the other yellow flex loom under runners to firewall to my relay mounted here.




Then I ran the wires from my power sources and to purge and control switch panel in car through this flex loom.




To anyone wondering what the deal is with my plug wires on the drivers side it was a universal set from accel and instead of cutting the few longer ones I came up with this routing. It looks crazy but works great.

Also, to answer the several PM's that I got---the oil cap has plenty of clearance to be removed. The pics are just a bit misleading on clearances.



I hope this addition helps. If you have any questions I can help with when you get your kit dont hesitate to ask. If I can help I will. Good luck on your install.

Dave

 

wow, now thats what i call advise, my kit should get here in a week or so, i ordered the relay, hobbs switch, purge kit and heater as well.

i dont see why so many folks are scared of nitrous, i've had motors blow up just from throwing in a 270 cam. any time your getting an extra 100HP your going too stress things a little bit, except nitrous is not a full time stress on the motor, only once in a great while.

 

...and Thanks again, if i hadnt seen your original post i would never have gone nitrous, its always been a 4 letter word until i found this forum

 

Your welcome, I do go overboard sometimes on my advise but hey, I had some time to kill. I just wish I could have found more info with pics before I did mine.

About the scared thing, I'm not sure either. Nitrous is still a bit taboo if you will among the nay sayers. I hear alot of crap like "I just want the same performance driving home from the track that I had there" and "I just want a naturally aspirated engine". To which I'm thinking "I just want the stock 32 mpg when I drive home and 12 second passes while I'm there". When you think into it deeply N20 is really natural aspiration too isn't it?? As natural as gas and oil is anyway.

 

That's a most impressive setup. Everyone always does it different. Gotta say I always like the way the nitrous setup looks on the L-98.

 

i think that when i tell someone im running nitrous they assume i just threw i nitrous jet in my intake and thats it, they dont realize how far the kits have come.

 

I agree. I have probably 40 hours in my N20 kit. It probably would of been less time consuming to install a damn blower, lol. It's really irritating to me when people call N20 a shortcut.

Install a stealth kit, machine nozzles into your throttle body, hide the bottle, install an MSD igniton, a Jacobs N20 mastermind, wire it all so that it works every time with no worries, and then tell me it's a shortcut.

 

Thanks, yeah me too people oooh and ahhhh over them.

I too agree, this didn't go in in an hour. Took alot of planning and research. I thought about going stealth then decided not to use it as a cheat but to just let it all hang out in the open. Not saying a stealth system is cheating but at the track there gonna see and hear the purge anyways so I figured, why try to hide it? Stealth would be nice if I was a street racer though but I'm not.....anymore.

 

Well...mine took about an hour and a half to hook up...but we took a lot of breaks, so...haha.

 

Well thats fine. I just wanted to be thorough and do a good job. There's no way my install could have happened in an hour and a half with breaks.

 

ttt for the new guys.