C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

ignition switch

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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 12:05 AM
  #1  
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madmike
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From: Irwindale Ca
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Hi this is a long shot but does anyone know if there is a aftermarket universal ignition switch that takes 100 amps or more? my ignition switch and steering lock fell apart so I bypassed the steering column ignition block and rewired it to a universal ignition switch. Worked fine for a while until it melted. Apparently there are quite a few amps that are running through those big gauge ignition wires. I tried these aftermarket ignition switches at the local autoparts stores but they are rated at 30 amps and all melt after a while. I am trying to avoid a 500 dollar mechanichs bill replacing the steering column. I got 298000 miles on my 86 and dont think its worth it to dish out. By the way , i never replaced my valve cover gaskets. They never leaked. Just a bit of frivilous information..ops 1986 L-98...Right now im using a 75 amp light pull switch. Never heats or melts but theres no ignition key.. Yikes... sorry for the long post..Thanx in advance
Mike
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 12:24 PM
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CFI-EFI
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From: The Top of Utah
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Your ignition switch isn't the problem. You need to find the short or defective component that is CAUSING the 100 amp draw through the switch.

RACE ON!!!
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Old Feb 12, 2005 | 06:21 PM
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It shouldn't cost $500 to replace the ignition switch AND there is no where near 100 amps flowing through the ignition switch because there are four switches in the ignition switch and one of them has 58 amps of fuses on it, the rest are less. Buy a replacement switch and replace it!
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 05:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jfb
It shouldn't cost $500 to replace the ignition switch AND there is no where near 100 amps flowing through the ignition switch because there are four switches in the ignition switch and one of them has 58 amps of fuses on it, the rest are less. Buy a replacement switch and replace it!
Thanx for the response. Actually it was not only the ignition switch that would not slide but the top of the ignition switch rod steering lock that just cracked in half from use... I knew it was less than 100 ams but im sure it was more than 15 amps. The steering column doesnt look cheap to repair. Thanx again for the reply...
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Old Feb 14, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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Glad to hear you found the problem!
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 03:06 AM
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From: Thornhill Ontario
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mike,
what did u end up doing?
as i am having the same problem, and thinking of running a fused ignition start button straight from the battery...
it's to much of a hassel to get to the switch and figure this is alot easier...and kinda cool aswell
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Old May 12, 2005 | 10:22 AM
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From: Irwindale Ca
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Originally Posted by danbokem
mike,
what did u end up doing?
as i am having the same problem, and thinking of running a fused ignition start button straight from the battery...
it's to much of a hassel to get to the switch and figure this is alot easier...and kinda cool aswell
I ended up doing what you are thinkin of doing. I ran a hot wire from the battery junction block to a push button and ran the other wire to the solenoid. If your ignition switch works fine,and powers up your computer and distributor, and the only problem is starting? I would go this way. make sure to use a heavy 10 gauge wire. Smaller gauge wires might not give the solenoid enough amps. I did this when my ignition starter switch was giving me trouble. The whole thing gave out later and I ended up and am still with a pull out 75 amp ignition spst switch. The black push button also looks cool to the right of the steering column. good luck
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