Need Oil Info
Boatman, in south FL
I have also asked them the same question about the switch.
I used their Max-Life in the 79 with good results.
Switch to synthetic and be done with it. Whatever mineral oil is left behind will be absorbed by the synthetic on the first pass... and will be gone by the time you change the oil next.
You can use conventional or synthetic motor oil... it does not matter what the previous owner used. If you are worried about the myths that changing to synthetic will cause leaks... it is just that.... a myth.
Synthetics have a number of benefits. They provide better low temperature lubrication, better high temperature protection, and allow longer oil change intervals.
I'd go with a synthetic .... in 5W30 from a Brand you trust.
For me that is Shell or Mobil... as first choice, with Quaker and Pennzoil rounding out my top 4. Others will have their own favorites.





Switch to synthetic and be done with it. Whatever mineral oil is left behind will be absorbed by the synthetic on the first pass... and will be gone by the time you change the oil next.
This stuff is blown way out of proportion.
Switch to synthetic and be done with it. Whatever mineral oil is left behind will be absorbed by the synthetic on the first pass... and will be gone by the time you change the oil next.
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Let's back up a bit here... synthetics start as mineral oil. Most "mineral" oils are Level 2.5, whereas synthetics are Level 3.
The "level" refers to the purity, or, how well refined is it.
The main difference between mineral and synthetic is the removal of the waxes that cause heat break down.
It's also why synthetics are prone to leakage - they don't "cause" leaks, they just find them - the wax is gone; the oil will flow better.
If I remember rightly, the Shell Helix that is used in the Ferrari Enzo is like $70 a quart, and requires like 12 quarts!!! I think that stuff may also be Level 4.
The Level 4 will be even better refined, less prone to thermal breakdown and less prone to viscosity breakdown caused by stray gas vapour entering into the crankcase. The viscosity breakdown is also enhanced by the chemical additives introduced during manufacturing.
Viscosity breakdown is the worst thing... it's caused by short trips, where the oil does not get a chance to warm up. Synthetics are reasonably immune to this. Mineral oils are not.
Mineral oils require that heating process, so they can burn off the bad stuff and keep their viscosity where it belongs. It's why conventional oils require a 3-month/3000 mile change interval.
With synthetics, I go about 5 months/5000 miles or so.
I hope this helps clarify some of the issues involving oil.

Most guys use Mobil 1 but don't leave it in long enough to benefit from it, so they just **** their money away.
I say, if you have no leaks, use Mobil 1. If after the first few oil changes you're still not getting more than 4K before it's dirty, then just use dino oil and save your $.
Dirty oil doesn't mean it's used up, but if it's getting dirty before the oil breaks down, you should be changing it anyways.
How long your oil lasts depends on how tight your engine is, how much blowby, valve seal leaks, and how dirty the air it breathes in.
this stuff is alsome, I can actually feel the difference after a couple of oil changes, the engine runs much smoother. this stuff is supposed to be the best. I put it in my ZF6 trans recently because of the how great it worked for my LT1, the trans is shifting much smoother. mobile 1 is also good.















