Power Seat Switch Cleaning
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Power Seat Switch Cleaning
My power seat switch is getting very flaky. I know the motor still work because I hooked up the 12V to the motors to move the driver seat back since the switch didn't work.
I'm trying to see if I can clean the contacts or something. I've got it out of the bracket that it mounts in but I can't seem to get it a part anymore. Has anybody done this before? Is there a trick that I'm missing? Please Help!
I'm trying to see if I can clean the contacts or something. I've got it out of the bracket that it mounts in but I can't seem to get it a part anymore. Has anybody done this before? Is there a trick that I'm missing? Please Help!
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
if it's a sealed unit and it's shot, try this
I resurrected a plastic sealed switch by drilling a couple small holes in it and injecting it with tuner cleaner, then forced compressed air through it to empty it out. Plus a little WD40 for good luck. It snapped right out of it's funk and worked fine. I was going to toss it so it would have been no loss anyway.
Try that before you throw it away. If there is no mechanical damage in there, it will most likely work.
You can put a little caulk or sealant in the holes to complete it.
Try that before you throw it away. If there is no mechanical damage in there, it will most likely work.
You can put a little caulk or sealant in the holes to complete it.
Last edited by flylowguy; Feb 14, 2005 at 10:47 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but being that the wires are soldered on I'm doing this in the dim garage, lying sideways because the set is out, and not having much manuvering room between the roof, steeringwheel and the console lid.
I'm down to just the black casing with the wireleads on it. But I'm not sure where to go from there. All the casing stuff used to mount it to the plastic bracks are gone, undid all the screws and pulled the switch out, now I'm not exactly sure how to get the switch itself apart.
I'm down to just the black casing with the wireleads on it. But I'm not sure where to go from there. All the casing stuff used to mount it to the plastic bracks are gone, undid all the screws and pulled the switch out, now I'm not exactly sure how to get the switch itself apart.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 265
Likes: 0
From: Angleton Tx
before anyone throws away the switch I need one of the little gray triangles on the switch cover that sits on top of the counsole. I am missing one! You guys can email me a prodadiv@yahoo.com.
Thanks
Pete
Thanks
Pete
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 926
Likes: 2
From: chandler az
Are you sure they are soldered on? On my 88 the wires go to the sockets and the switches are connected to the sockets with large 3/8in. pins. I separated mine with a small flat blade screwdriver. (dont touch the pins together ;-) )
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
There are 9 pins, power, ground, something else and 6 that go to the three motors in pairs. These pairs can switch polarity depending on how you want to move the motor. Between each of these pairs is a soldered on capacitor. The solder goes through the center hole on the pin and is messy enough to get onto the wire connector. I gave it a good yank with a pair of pliars and the thing wouldn't budge. I don't really want to resolder the caps back on if I can avoid it.
This is for a '93 by the way.
This is for a '93 by the way.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 20,179
Likes: 673
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Originally Posted by brookman
If you are mechanically inclined - they can be disassembled. I had that problem with my 88. Just keep an eye out for the springs
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Originally Posted by JrRifleCoach
Yep! Those ittsy-bittsy teeny-weeny springs can fly further than you'll imagine. Consider taking it apart inside a big plastic bag.
Ok, but how do i get to them???
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Originally Posted by flylowguy
I resurrected a plastic sealed switch by drilling a couple small holes in it and injecting it with tuner cleaner, then forced compressed air through it to empty it out. Plus a little WD40 for good luck. It snapped right out of it's funk and worked fine. I was going to toss it so it would have been no loss anyway.
Try that before you throw it away. If there is no mechanical damage in there, it will most likely work.
You can put a little caulk or sealant in the holes to complete it.
Try that before you throw it away. If there is no mechanical damage in there, it will most likely work.
You can put a little caulk or sealant in the holes to complete it.
I just tested out one of my power seat switches after trying this and it worked nicely! I'm stoked, this is going to save me about $80 that I can now spend on other car stuff. Thanks for the advice!
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
From: Tucson AZ
Hey, whaddayah know
You are now qualified to join the jimmie-rig club. I am a charter member. I think it's fun to see what you can do with tuner cleaner and WD40 and some tape and caulk.
Look at all the money you saved. You can buy your girlfriend a big French dinner.
Or maybe some new mats for the front......
Look at all the money you saved. You can buy your girlfriend a big French dinner.
Or maybe some new mats for the front......
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,293
Likes: 79
From: Jackson MI
Originally Posted by flylowguy
Look at all the money you saved. You can buy your girlfriend a big French dinner.
Or maybe some new mats for the front......
Or maybe some new mats for the front......
