When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
ok well heres the deal....I have a 91 and I am getting ready to tear the motor out this weekend and I need to order the crank,rods,pistons, and cam yet...I can get a internaley balanced 383 stroker kit for 675.00 delivered. Nothing is forged....
I am curious if anyone has used a none forged, internaley balanced eagle stroker kit and had good luck..From what I have heard eagle is not a real bad kit to use exspecialy for the 675.00 I can get it for..
Also will my stock intake work or should I port it and go with bigger runners or just get a new one?Also how about the stock injectors?
If anybody reading this has built a 383, Please give me some pointers on the cam/intake/heads...expecting H.P. and torque...
I am going to post all detailed pics of the entire rebuild on my web site and post a link here...this should be very intresting....I cant wait...
Thanks everybody...
I just killed a 383 that I ran for 9 years. Cast pistons, stock rods and a cast crank. I even sprayed it with good luck. Buy the best parts you can afford. If (like me) the best you can afford is cast, use it and enjoy it. My crank was not even internal balance. Stock 400 balancer and flexplate was used (external)
I just killed a 383 that I ran for 9 years. Cast pistons, stock rods and a cast crank. I even sprayed it with good luck. Buy the best parts you can afford. If (like me) the best you can afford is cast, use it and enjoy it. My crank was not even internal balance. Stock 400 balancer and flexplate was used (external)
how much nitrous did you spray it with? what was your compression? and I get to save a little cash and stay with the stock balancer and fly wheel for now...
Whichever you get, you will need to clearance the block for the additional stroke. Also the oil pan will need to be notched or get an aftermarket one with wider rails.
Make sure the crank is for 1 piece rear main seal.
Once you do get the kit, take it all (pistons, rings, wrist pins, locks, rods, rod bearings, rod bolts) including the flexplate or flywheel and harmonic balancer to a competent machine shop with the ability to balance the entire recip assembly together.
Place the rings in their respective cylinder bores and check their gaps. File till you get the numbers you want. Do this even if you get "pre-gapped" rings.
Sure, the stock TPI will work, but keep in mind it was meant for a 305 and at last minute put on 350's. You will run out of breathing RPM lower in the band.
Stock injectors will work plenty fine.
Are emissions a concern?
Whichever you get, you will need to clearance the block for the additional stroke. Also the oil pan will need to be notched or get an aftermarket one with wider rails.
Make sure the crank is for 1 piece rear main seal.
Once you do get the kit, take it all (pistons, rings, wrist pins, locks, rods, rod bearings, rod bolts) including the flexplate or flywheel and harmonic balancer to a competent machine shop with the ability to balance the entire recip assembly together.
Place the rings in their respective cylinder bores and check their gaps. File till you get the numbers you want. Do this even if you get "pre-gapped" rings.
Sure, the stock TPI will work, but keep in mind it was meant for a 305 and at last minute put on 350's. You will run out of breathing RPM lower in the band.
Stock injectors will work plenty fine.
Are emissions a concern?
nope emissions are of no concern here...the crank and everything is internaley balanced so I dont think I will need any additional balancing...i can stick with my stock fly wheel and balancer..also I work at a machine shop,thats why my parts are so cheap...all the boring,honing,surfacing will be free and we deal eagle products so we get a huge discount..
so you think my stock intake needs to be ported and a bigger throttle body?do you think think it will provide enough flow for what I need?
also what are the ccs on 113 vette heads? i believe they are 76 but i am not sure...
this is the first time I have rebuilt a motor in a vette and I want to make sure its right the first time.i am eliminating all the smog crap and I need to find out about my tune...should i just get a chip burnt and go from there or what?where is a good place to order a chip from?does anybody burn them that can do it for me????
Thanks guys for all the info..
I payed $1500 for my 4340 Crank one piece and 6" H beam 4340 rods, and Forged SRP pistons. With Clevite Pistons. All eagle. I would save up a few more dollars.. Just me piece of mind. By engine builder has the same stuff in his Outlaw car. 750HP 7500 RPM. No problems.
I am also doing a 383 for my 84 internal balanced Eagle setup, new balancer and new flexplate as well. I would balance it anyway just to make sure it is up to snuff.
I'm not sure - they were part of a 383 kit that the engine builder I used bought. Everything else was good in the kit, Scat forged crank, Sealed Power forged pistons but the rods look to be junk, there aren't any part #'s on them nor a manufacturer name.
I'm not sure - they were part of a 383 kit that the engine builder I used bought. Everything else was good in the kit, Scat forged crank, Sealed Power forged pistons but the rods look to be junk, there aren't any part #'s on them nor a manufacturer name.
To be fair, didn't that engine swallow a nut and that caused the failure?