So.. I will be removing the transmission tomorrow.. This will be my first time removing a 4+3. Any info you guys can share would be great.. Tips, Tricks, watch out for. that kinda stuff. Also which clutch kit do you guys recommend for this transmission? thanks

 

First and foremost, make sure your transmission is in neutral. Both of the front shift forks need to be verticle. It is possible to have them both engaged when you put the linkage back in, and break stuff the first time you let the clutch out. (my mistake, destroyed a $400.00 clutch)

ok now that that is out of the way...
Removal. Unplug everything, and disconnect the linkage. Remove the drive shaft, then torque brace. The brace can be a little trouble to get out, so when I removed mine, I radiused the edges or it for ease of installation. make sure you have a block, or some other flat surface under the back of the oil pan to hold the motor in one place. Remove the 4 bolts that hold the gear box to the bell housing. Lower the tranny a little, and remove the cooler lines. Then remove the tranny. Then ofcourse the obvious, remove the slave sylinder from the bellhousing, and inspect the rod/clutch fork to make sure there isnt too much wear. remove bellhousing bolts/bellhousing. Remove pressure plate perimiter bolts to get the clutch out. Inspect the flywheel, if it has a lot of discolored marks on it from slipage, have it turned before re-using it. Remove pilot bushing, and install another one. While I had mine out, I took the side cover off, and found that my 1st/2nd gear shifter fork had too much wear on it, which was the cause if it popping out of 2nd gear when I would let off the throttle, so I replaced that.
I also replaced the filter/flud to the OD unit.

Installation
Pretty straight forward... Put new parts back in, and make sure clutch is lined up. Put bellhousing back on.
If you dont have a tranny jack, Get one. You will be hating life if you are installing this thing by yourself, and you dont have one. It was very hard to do this by myself w/ a couple of hydraulic jacks, and make sure everything was lined up right.

 

thanks for the info... so i started today.. exsaust came out easy.. then the problems started... first started to remove the support beam... the 2 bolts on the bottom of the tranny side of the support beam are both stripped... spin, spin not going anywhere, the heads are not rounded.. its just not turning out I cant even begin to figure out those top bolts.. Anymore tips here would be great.. on my pizza break back at in 10min.. Also ideas for the stipped bolts?

 

Also what size is the correct size of the clutch disk? and how many spline? just want to make sure I have the right one. thanks

 

You need to put a wrench on the top side of the bolts. Otherwise you'll never break the nut/bolt loose and it'll spin all day long. Do NOT forget to remove your distributor cap cover.

The oil cooler line fittings are VERY soft material. Be careful with them and use a proper line wrench on them. I think a 13mm is the size you need. When you remove the lines tape over the holes in the tranny to make sure no dirt gets into it.

When you put a new clutch it is is very important to get it centered. If you don't it makes it a bear to get the tranny back in easily to the pilot bushing. I actually use a spare T-10 input shaft to center the clutch while installing it. If you have an extra helper around have them push the clutch pedal down ONLY WHEN you have the tranny input shaft PAST the clutch, but going into the pilot bushing. If you do it too soon the clutch will slide down too far and you might have to pull the bellhousing again.

 

ok... got the support member out... thanks for the help.. anyone have the correct size of clutch for this 85 4+3? is the 10.4 or 10 3/4 26 spline right?

 

26 spline 10.75 dia

Description Cylinders Size Input Shaft Disc P/N Centerforce I Centerforce II Dual Friction T.O. Bearing
1985.-1988.
5.7L 350" ENG.
8 CYLINDER INCHES: 10-3/4 1-1/8-26 384208
CF361911

(Disc Not Included) CFT361911

(Disc Not Included) DF161911

(Disc Included) N1716

 

thanks for the info... I got the right one.. will keep you posted thanks again

 

ok.. next problem... 2 out of the 4 stap nuts on the rear universal joint are stripped... any idea's on how to get these out. other than cutting them off... thanks guys

 

Those things, SUCK. I really wish GM used a harder material for them. If you have some space you can try getting a die grinder in there to slot them. OR a trusty set of vice grips.

 

Man its problems galore for you!
I agree with what scorp said, and always make sure you use the correct wrench size so you don't strip anything more! (especially the oil lines)

Also, I believe some Corvette magazine published something about an updated pilot "bushing" rather than the standard pilot "bearing". My replacement OEM kit came with a bearing, I read the article the day after I finished the clutch install on my 86.

 

Help... ok almost got the tranny out.. the oil line on the side of the tranny is stripped.. My question are these lines high pressure? I want to cut it and replace with a rubber inscert... Good Idea or No?

 

ok.. got everything out.. clutch disc doesn't look to bad.. pressure plate ok, fork release bearing is ... OK for what I can tell.. it looks like the fork is the problem.. there is some kinda spring teeth at the end of the fork that apply presure to the release bearing and keep it in place.. one of the spring teeth is broke off on my fork.. now it doesnt look like I can just replace these teeth.. Any Ideas? I really hope you guys dont tell me I have to get a new fork.. Where am I going to get a fork in good condition? and how much? I have included some pics sorry about the quality (camera phone) all I got.. The flywheel feels fine no groves and is flat and true.. but it has some discoloration on it.. let me know what you think... thanks
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There is someone on ebay right now selling the fork you need. Here's the link. It says it's used, but it's cheap enough to try. New ones are just about unobtainable as they are out of production.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

Auction # 7955669342 if the link didn't work.

 

thanks.. I will check it out.. what do you guys think about the flywheel.. should have it machined.. How much does that normally cost to have a flywheel machined?

 

Hmm, if there really aren't any groves or anything at all you might be able to get away with it but should only be 20-30$ at a machine shop and I know it is recommended with a new clutch so you might as well.

 

I have bought a few things from this guy for my 85 and I have no complaints.

 

Check with GM, I recently bought a fork for my '87 about 1.5 years ago and it was cheap.

 

I have bought many parts from Steve (Redneck43). If the deal doesn't work out I have a clutch fork because I swapped to a ZF6.

 

thanks for all the help guys... I checked gmpartdirect.com and it lists the fork but it wont let me "checkout" I dunno if there is something wrong with the site or what.. trupp i sent you a message.. thanks again