Mechanical Cams
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From: East Ridge tn
Mechanical Cams
I am considering putting a flat solid cam in my new engine, but have concerns of maintenance.
I have been told that you really have to stay after the valve adjustment. Does anyone here run flat tappet solid cams? I have a particular cam in mind that I would like to try out, but if its going to be a serious hassle to run it, im going to scrap the idea. I was told that you need to re-adjust valve lash every 3,000-4,000 miles or so. I was later told that since I have poly locks that it could go longer. I figure if I do decide to run this cam, that I will only use synthetic oil to see if that can cut wear down in an effort to go a little longer without requiring an adjustment.
Any imput would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
I have been told that you really have to stay after the valve adjustment. Does anyone here run flat tappet solid cams? I have a particular cam in mind that I would like to try out, but if its going to be a serious hassle to run it, im going to scrap the idea. I was told that you need to re-adjust valve lash every 3,000-4,000 miles or so. I was later told that since I have poly locks that it could go longer. I figure if I do decide to run this cam, that I will only use synthetic oil to see if that can cut wear down in an effort to go a little longer without requiring an adjustment.
Any imput would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
Last edited by l98vette; Feb 19, 2005 at 10:29 PM.
Team Owner
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From: Athens AL
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Solid Lifter cams do require a valve adjustment every so often.
Hydraulic flat tappet does not, which is why you dont have to redo your stock setup every so often.
Hydraulic flat tappet does not, which is why you dont have to redo your stock setup every so often.
Race Director
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Mechanical is one thing, flat tappet is another. Be sure you understand the difference.
A hydraulic roller is really the best of both worlds, if you want ultimate power then you would want a solid roller. This allows you to get a much more aggressive cam profile than a flat tappet and the roller virtually eliminates wear.
A hydraulic roller is really the best of both worlds, if you want ultimate power then you would want a solid roller. This allows you to get a much more aggressive cam profile than a flat tappet and the roller virtually eliminates wear.
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From: East Ridge tn
Originally Posted by Nathan Plemons
Mechanical is one thing, flat tappet is another. Be sure you understand the difference.
A hydraulic roller is really the best of both worlds, if you want ultimate power then you would want a solid roller. This allows you to get a much more aggressive cam profile than a flat tappet and the roller virtually eliminates wear.
A hydraulic roller is really the best of both worlds, if you want ultimate power then you would want a solid roller. This allows you to get a much more aggressive cam profile than a flat tappet and the roller virtually eliminates wear.
Thanks for the replies
Chris
any other suggestions are welcome.
Last edited by l98vette; Feb 22, 2005 at 02:43 AM.
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From: Wellington Ohio
My engine builder went with a solid cam also he stated that the hyd rollers floated in upper RPM's. So we apted for the solid bump stick and polly locks. I have ran solid cams in the past and the adjustment are not as bad as everyone makes them seem.
Cal
Cal
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From: altered state
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Your builder was right. Put a good set of Locks on there, check adjustment before and after cam beak in; you should be good to go for a long time. Nothing makes music like a solid! Go for it!
Melting Slicks
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From: PITTSBURGH PA
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i would say a solid mechanical will make more power than a hydralic roller setup the hyd rollers are boat anchors in there
i think you can go as high as 10,000 miles with seting the lash on the tighter side and locking down those poly locks if you lose adjustmants you are wearing parts out whether its a hydralic or solid cam
i think you can go as high as 10,000 miles with seting the lash on the tighter side and locking down those poly locks if you lose adjustmants you are wearing parts out whether its a hydralic or solid cam
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Redding Ca
Avoid extreme, sustained RPM's which weaken valve springs, and you shouldn't have to adjust them too often. You can often tell by the sound of the very cool sound they make if one is loose. Adjustments are often required for wear and distortion or weakened springs due to high RPM's rather than the nuts backing off. Make sure the rockers have EXCELLENT oil flow
I never ran a solid flat tappet on the street but I had a solid roller in my 505" BBC, altered roadster Super Pro Brkt car(8.40 at 156) and we checked the valves out of guilt more than anything else. I regularly spun it 7200-7500. Never a problem with bad adjustments, but high RPM's will eventually weaken the valve springs, then you can have serious trouble (read that, "new engine") when the solid tappet starts bouncing instead of following the lobe.
I never ran a solid flat tappet on the street but I had a solid roller in my 505" BBC, altered roadster Super Pro Brkt car(8.40 at 156) and we checked the valves out of guilt more than anything else. I regularly spun it 7200-7500. Never a problem with bad adjustments, but high RPM's will eventually weaken the valve springs, then you can have serious trouble (read that, "new engine") when the solid tappet starts bouncing instead of following the lobe.
Last edited by GeosFun; Feb 20, 2005 at 06:32 PM.
Racer
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From: Los Gatos, CA
Depending on how high you go into the rpm's, it might not be a bad idea to run a stud girdle and definitely use 7/16 studs. If you don't spin it very tight there probably isn't much to be gained with a solid lifter set-up over a hydro cam (except of course they sound way better). Solids can also cause issues with knock sensors that you might have to work around.
Good luck with your choice
Good luck with your choice
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From: Wellington Ohio
Knock sensor could be a issue with solid bumpstick. With mine we went with a old style block so we are eliminating the knock sensor . we are doing a 383 with 6" rods and where the block has to be ground for the rod clearance he has run into problems with the new model blocks. Plus a truck block has the 4 bolt mains and 2 peice rear main. But those solids do sound sweet no denying them with a gear drive music to my ears
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From: East Ridge tn
I decided to use the solid today due to the RPMs i'll be turning it.
I really didnt want to go w/ a hydraulic cam b/c of the RPM limitations, that is why I started looking at the solid.
cam
The specs are 238, and 248 @ .050 w/ .480, and .500 lift. Crane PowerMax nitrous cam.
The rest.
Destroked 400 .030 to 377 cubes.
scat crank, forged Rods, forged pistons w/ moly rings, Tpis Mini Ram w/ 24lb injectors, 52mm TB, AFR 195cc heads w/ 7/16 studs, roller rockers w/ poly locks MSD 6AL, 1-3/4" hooker supercomp LT's w/ 3" pipes going into an X-pipe, then reduced to 2.5" into Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.
I kept the goal conservative for this setup, just hoping to click off some 7.50's 1/8th 11.70's 1/4 or so on the motor. W/ the old combo, It ran 7.50's w/ a little shot of nitrous, so I atleast want to do that on the motor now.
I guess i'll check valve lash every oil change just to make sure nothing is chaning to be on the safe side. From what I have learned about mechanical cams over the past 3 days, it should run pretty good.
Thanks for all your input/suggestions guys.
I really didnt want to go w/ a hydraulic cam b/c of the RPM limitations, that is why I started looking at the solid.
cam
The specs are 238, and 248 @ .050 w/ .480, and .500 lift. Crane PowerMax nitrous cam.
The rest.
Destroked 400 .030 to 377 cubes.
scat crank, forged Rods, forged pistons w/ moly rings, Tpis Mini Ram w/ 24lb injectors, 52mm TB, AFR 195cc heads w/ 7/16 studs, roller rockers w/ poly locks MSD 6AL, 1-3/4" hooker supercomp LT's w/ 3" pipes going into an X-pipe, then reduced to 2.5" into Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.
I kept the goal conservative for this setup, just hoping to click off some 7.50's 1/8th 11.70's 1/4 or so on the motor. W/ the old combo, It ran 7.50's w/ a little shot of nitrous, so I atleast want to do that on the motor now.
I guess i'll check valve lash every oil change just to make sure nothing is chaning to be on the safe side. From what I have learned about mechanical cams over the past 3 days, it should run pretty good.
Thanks for all your input/suggestions guys.
Last edited by l98vette; Feb 22, 2005 at 04:53 AM.
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From: East Ridge tn
Originally Posted by cuisinartvette
Should be a good runner. What about the knock sensor?Is there a way to desensitize it? I've heard of the Z06 guys doing it, but don't know the first thing about it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2003
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From: seattle WA
When I was running solids on a pumped up motor at first I was discouraged about having to make adjustments frequently-went to the locks-they helped-but the final answer for me was using 2 of the self locking nuts-that almost ended the necessity to do it again.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Redding Ca
Back in the late '50's and 60's, if you were not running a solid lifter cam, you were not considered a serious player. Just make sure the springs are rated for the cam and stay withing the recommended rev range and you should be fine. 
