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So now that my headers are in, I'm looking at a 2800 stall torque converter and a trans cooler. What do you guys think of this idea? I know this has been kicked around before. I want the car to remain a daily driver so I'm reluctant to go higher.
Well, I just put a 2600 in my weekend-cruiser. I don't think it would be that much of an issue if I had to drive it daily, but I don't think I would buy a 2800 to go into a DD. ---Just My Opinion, but I think you might be just a touch too high for 'around town' driving. If you haven't bought it yet, I'd see if there was a 2600 available.
On the same topic, do you guys think this converter is harder on the rear end? If it launches harder then logically I think it would be. I have a D36 with 1.75 in now.
On the same topic, do you guys think this converter is harder on the rear end? If it launches harder then logically I think it would be. I have a D36 with 1.75 in now.
If your cars sees mostly street time, you should be fine. If your car sees a fair amount of track time, a swap to a D44 would probably be wise at some point. My D36 was fine untill my 60' times started to dip into the 1.7x range, then it quickly went south. Some have had better luck than me.
Do a search, you'll see alot of these kind of threads. There are guys here with a 3800 stall converter that drive around town with it just fine. Do a search.
That is NOT how you check the stall of your converters. The stall of a converter is what it "flashes" to when you mash the go peddle. In each of the instances above - you are describing what appears to me, holding the brake on and giving it gas till the rear wheels spin. That is NOT what the stall of the converter is.
All your doing there is holding back the car, and as your RPMs increase your converter is spinning faster and faster with the increased RPM and transfering more of a % power through to the wheels. You will NEVER get the intended stall of the converter this way. My 4200 stall vigilante would not even come close to going over 2000 RPM. The wheels would start to spin at about 1800 RPM. Hence the reason why you can still run these higher stalls on the street. Especially the lockup style.
You check flash(or the stall speed) by sitting still and mashing the gas. Watch the tach and it will shoot to ~whatever your stall is. Depending on the motor (powerful) it will shoot past the advertised. (Less powerful) might land below the advertised slightly.
If your stall is higher, like 4000, you can also check it while below the lockup point if a lockup converter from a slow roll. ~25mph 1200RPM, mash the gas and it will shoot to ~4000RPM, at which time you will feel the rear tires break loose.
But stitting still and putting the gas on more and more till the tires break loose it not telling you anything. WIth a very powerful motor, you might only get 1800RPM out of a 4000 stall converter till the brakes can't hold it anymore. In a stock 350 with a 4000 stall you might get 3200 RPM. Its just how much power is transfered and when till the brakes can't hold anymore. Hence the reason you see so much difference in the above examples.
My 3200 stall vigilante went exactly to 3200 in my 406. The 4200 vigilante run with the 406 and 434 went exactly to 4200 rpm when nailed off the starting line. But powerbraking in both of the above examples was MUCH MUCH less than the stall.
Admittedly this concept of converter is probably one of the most misunderstood things in our sport. I have a older friend that just can't understand how you can drive a 4000+ stall converter on the street. This past summer I picked him up at his house and let him drive my car. ( he was building a 57 street rod and wanted to put a 1500 stall converter behind the 383 he was building.) I told him be wanted at least a 2800 stall or more with that motor and HEAVY car to make it run better. But he agrued that 3000 stall as going to make the car undriveable. Well until he drove my car. He was under the impression that you had to, no matter how much I tried to explain to him, rev the car to ~4000 before it would move. He quickly found this not to be the case when driving my car. Leave off the brake with no gas the car takes off. Because a certain % of power is being sent through. With more RPM more % is added, up till you reach the stall of the converter then ~98-99% of power is being transfered. Nail it off the starting line - you jump instantly to that RPM and 99%+ torque multiplication is there. Again this concept is not an easy on to get to sink in right away.
2800 stall is perfect for a daily driver with LTs and 3.75 gears. Any higher and you will hit the rev limiter between shifts.
I'm confused now by that. I have never driven a car with this done so I am unexperienced here. Are you saying that when driving (auto trans) my rpm's will go way up nearly to the rev limiter? I assume you mean at WOT and not daily driving.
I'm confused now by that. I have never driven a car with this done so I am unexperienced here. Are you saying that when driving (auto trans) my rpm's will go way up nearly to the rev limiter? I assume you mean at WOT and not daily driving.
My 2800 acts just like the stock TC at anything less than half throttle, above that... she roars to life.