Ticking and Engine overheating...
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock,Austin, Texas
Ticking and Engine overheating...
I just had some major work done on my engine. It was rebuilt and had new heads and intake + cam put in. I have had it back for about a day and now I hear a loud ticking noise which sounds to be on driverside. At the same time the car is overheating. Any ideas?
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
From: Pismo Beach California
Mine did the same when I put the new motor in.
First off, pull the thermostat (if you have one), I break those things all the time (so now I run without).
Check the H20 pump. I've had a couple go without warning (hence, building a new engine).
Good luck
Cheers!
-ToDD
First off, pull the thermostat (if you have one), I break those things all the time (so now I run without).
Check the H20 pump. I've had a couple go without warning (hence, building a new engine).
Good luck
Cheers!
-ToDD
Pro
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 744
Likes: 1
From: Houston Tx
You have two issues going on here....
On the ticking , I would definitely take it to who built the motor and let them know. Could be several things from lifters to other internal problems.
On the overheating , how and when does it overheat? When the rebuilt it surely they changed coolant and flushed the system (I would hope so). Check thermostat and change (cheap and easy), check hoses , check to be sure fans are coming on at correct times/temps.
How much power does your car make out of curiosity and what are your cam specs?
On the ticking , I would definitely take it to who built the motor and let them know. Could be several things from lifters to other internal problems.
On the overheating , how and when does it overheat? When the rebuilt it surely they changed coolant and flushed the system (I would hope so). Check thermostat and change (cheap and easy), check hoses , check to be sure fans are coming on at correct times/temps.
How much power does your car make out of curiosity and what are your cam specs?
Racer
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Lisle IL
CI 6-7-8-9-10 Veteran
Originally Posted by GT4DD
Mine did the same when I put the new motor in.
First off, pull the thermostat (if you have one), I break those things all the time (so now I run without).
Check the H20 pump. I've had a couple go without warning (hence, building a new engine).
Good luck
Cheers!
-ToDD
First off, pull the thermostat (if you have one), I break those things all the time (so now I run without).
Check the H20 pump. I've had a couple go without warning (hence, building a new engine).
Good luck
Cheers!
-ToDD
Did they put forged pistons in it? Does the noise seem to get quieter after it warms up? It may be piston slap. Forged pistons do that sometimes.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
I'd take it back and have them get it right. Brandy new engines tend to run warm until the get some miles on them. Did they do ANY break in? They shouldn't have let it out their door with the engine "ticking". Or at least not without some explanation.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,594
Likes: 0
From: CALGARY ab
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
I'd take it back and have them get it right. Brandy new engines tend to run warm until the get some miles on them. Did they do ANY break in? They shouldn't have let it out their door with the engine "ticking". Or at least not without some explanation.
RACE ON!!!
RACE ON!!!
just opion...there should be no noise. in rebuilt engine...the ticking could be noise in the valve train, maybe lifter, rockers..but piston slap is more of a deep knock sound, if you have diagnostic software this would show up as a knock.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,759
Likes: 0
From: Round Rock,Austin, Texas
Well to start off, the only major components they they actually replaced in the engine were all the bearings. They said the pistons looked fine as well as the cylinders...even the crank and push rods. I have about 300 miles on it already and had to take it back for a small starting issue which was resolved. The day after I got it back it did this. It is definately a ticking noise , so im rule'n out pistons. It is upper valvetrain as it seems to be coming from the top of the heads or intake. As for the heating up it does this all at idle. We checked the thermostat and it was opening and closing. The digital gauge on the dash was acting strange though, as it was showing nominal temperature while the dumby analoge gauge on the dash was shootin through the roof and soon after the coolant started to force its way out the cap. All the new mods I put on were all new parts. Lifters and springs ...and so on were all new.
Shriker- I have not dynoed the car yet and plan to after they fix it. I dropped it off at Colvin automotive here in austin and they have a very good reputation so im sure they will fix it. Im going to try and get them to dyno it too. I will keep u posted on the numbers though. Im hoping to get close to 350-360rwhp. My cam specs are in my sig.
Shriker- I have not dynoed the car yet and plan to after they fix it. I dropped it off at Colvin automotive here in austin and they have a very good reputation so im sure they will fix it. Im going to try and get them to dyno it too. I will keep u posted on the numbers though. Im hoping to get close to 350-360rwhp. My cam specs are in my sig.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 17,298
Likes: 33
From: The Top of Utah
Originally Posted by RadPolo96
I just had some major work done on my engine. It was rebuilt and had new heads and intake + cam put in.
Originally Posted by RadPolo96
Well to start off, the only major components they they actually replaced in the engine were all the bearings.
RACE ON!!!
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Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
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From: Texas
If they took the water pump off, they need to make sure they reinstalled the drive shaft that runs from the engine front cover to the back of the water pump. Since it appears you've been driving the car, this is unlikely.
There is a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap from the fill reservoir and open the bleeder screw. Observe if the bleeder weeps water. If it doesn't, then there's air in the system and it needs to be filled the rest of the way.
The temp sender in the front of the water pump is for the digital gauge and it feeds the PCM coolant info. If the sender is bad, the PCM won't know to turn the fans on. Operation can be verified with a scan tool, or a replacement can be had for ~$35.
There is a bleeder screw on the thermostat housing. With the engine cold, remove the radiator cap from the fill reservoir and open the bleeder screw. Observe if the bleeder weeps water. If it doesn't, then there's air in the system and it needs to be filled the rest of the way.
The temp sender in the front of the water pump is for the digital gauge and it feeds the PCM coolant info. If the sender is bad, the PCM won't know to turn the fans on. Operation can be verified with a scan tool, or a replacement can be had for ~$35.
