My 95 brakes need help
What you want, is too have both the rear and the fronts reach "lock-up" at the exact same time under all circumstances. This is impossible without EBD (electronic brake distribution). Hence, the conservative nature of the rear brakes. You don't want the rears locking up prematurely.
Be VERY careful when it comes to making changes back there. Upgrading the rears to increase braking power, not just feel, can be a double-edged knife. More braking power to the rears will only do you well if;
1. the balance is woefully off and the rears are under-utilized, if you can lock-up the rears your already at full potential or
2. you have increased the weight the rear tires carry, the grip of the rear tires and/or minimized the weight transfer to the front.
Putting more powerful brakes on the rear alone do nothing more than cause you to lock up or go into an ABS event sooner. You must increase the rear tires load to benefit from an increase in the rear brakes power. Otherwise, the rears should be looked at only from a "feel" standpoint.
Basic "start-off" Equations for brake balance
Equations: (for ease and consistency try and use meters and kg)
NOTE: Equation 1 does not mean more weight you have more stopping force, it is just to calculate the stopping force required. As you can see in Equation 8, the larger the stopping force is the larger and more aggressive the brakes need to be or can be.
1.
stopping force total = weight of car * longitudinal coefficient of friction of tires
2.
Front Force = (weight front + total weight) * tire friction * height of CG * (1/wheel base)
3.
Rear Force = (total weight - rear weight) * tire friction * height of CG * (1/wheel base)
4.
% front = Front Force/Stopping Force
5.
% Rear = Rear Force/Stopping Force
6.
Area of Master Cylinder * pedal ratio = M
Area of front or rear piston= N
Mechanical Force Ratio= M/N
7.
mechanical force ratio front = mechanical force ratio * %front
mechanical force ratio rear = mechanical force ratio * %rear
8.
Stopping Force = pedal force * brake pad coefficient of friction * mechanical force ratio *
(1/radius of the tire) * brake rotor effective radius
.....solve for the parameter you need
As far as making the system (all disc-brake) more rear bias you can:
1. Install pads with higher friction
2. Larger rotor
3. Calipers with a larger piston
Or the most common is change the proportioning valve to increase the rear brake pressure cut-off. The proportioning valve only lets a certain portion of the pressure through to the rear wheels so that the front wheels apply more braking force. If the proportioning valve were set to 70 percent and the brake pressure were 1,000 pounds per square inch (psi) for the front brakes, the rear brakes would get only 700 psi in comparison to the fronts 1000psi.
Only you can decide for yourself if you need more rear brake. I just hope this info helps you in making an informed decision.
Last edited by Mighty-Mouse; Mar 7, 2005 at 09:02 AM.
Ray
Last edited by Ray z; Mar 7, 2005 at 04:52 PM.
I think you may be looking for this:
http://www.dougrippie.com/drm/brake_...eBias%20Spring
Good things often come in small packages. A lot of thought and successful racing experience went into the design of the DRM BrakeBias spring. Easily installed, this spring effectively puts more rear brake into your Corvette, giving you shorter stopping distances and more equalized front-to-rear brake pad wear. Also by having the rear pads do more work, front end nose-dive is reduced. This results in greater stability and vehicle control under extreme braking.
On the C5, the DRM Bias Spring easily installs in the junction block, and on the C4, it installs in the front of the master cylinder.
1987 - 96 Corvette ABS 10-100 $12.95







